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-   -   1970 K20 Restoration (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=683983)

K20rookie 10-07-2015 05:16 PM

Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by D.PASSMORE (Post 7333412)
Like that K20! you might want to consider replacing T- case with a NP 205 (71-72), Also, look at a 71-72 Dana 44. Disk brakes! Small upgrades that pay big dividends.
Sierra Vista, AZ! Wow, right on the border, cool place! I get to Ft Hauchua once or twice a year.

I was under the impression that I had an NP205, but I'm new to this stuff. What is it? What would the benefit be of upgrading to a 205? I've really been contemplating whether or not to upgrade to a disc brake setup. Originally, I wanted disc brakes, but really hate the idea of not keeping my stock axles. I'm thinking I need to let go of the sentimental aspect of this build and do what makes the most sense.

DeadheadNM 10-07-2015 09:26 PM

Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
 
Keep the red Spicer hub dials in a safe spot - I believe those were used in 1970 only.

K20rookie 10-08-2015 09:43 AM

Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM (Post 7333694)
Keep the red Spicer hub dials in a safe spot - I believe those were used in 1970 only.

I hadn't noticed until you mentioned it, but the driver's side hub is yellow and the passenger side is red! I'm guessing the yellow was original because it's faded compared to the red one.

D.PASSMORE 10-08-2015 10:12 AM

Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
 
Red was original on 1970 3/4T.
On the front axle - 71/72 Dana 44, its a direct bolt in. The only difference is ensure you have the same gear ratio and you will need to swap the brake proportioning valve to a drum / disk set-up. Any used axle would need to be gone through and rebuilt. Check with this guy, not to far from you, he has a lot of 67-72 parts - Tom, http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/member.php?u=966

T case is a rockwell 220, you can tell by the shifter position in the middle. Parts are very scarce and not as durable as a NP 205. NP 205 is still the king of t-cases. To replace, it is a direct bolt in, but you will need the shifter / adapter/mount / connecting shaft spline sleeve and maybe drive shaft yoke. Also, the 4x4 high hump cover for a 71/72 truck. sounds like a alot but it isnt that hard. just do your reserch on this site.

brimc 10-08-2015 10:18 AM

Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
 
Great truck! Super clean looking frame.

coopdog 10-08-2015 10:47 AM

Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
 
:metal::chevy:

farmallboy15 10-08-2015 05:45 PM

Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
 
I really think that he has a 205. My 205 looks the same and has the shifter in the same location.. Also I thought the Rockwells were divorced. Regardless, once he cleans all the grease off he will find the tag on the back stating what make and model.

Sweet project by the way! Another option for the disc brakes on the front (if you're hung up on keeping the original axle), is to swap the outer knuckles with a later axle. That's what I did on my '70. But looking back, swapping out the axle would have been a heck of alot easier...

farmallboy15 10-08-2015 05:52 PM

Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
 
3 Attachment(s)
Some pictures of my np205 and my '70.

msgross 10-08-2015 05:59 PM

Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
 
NP205 was a first for 70, I think. My 68 has a rockwell, I can tell the difference by the back cover plate but can't see through that grime.

Springs are pretty straight forward. They are "sprung" like coil springs so no real danger. I'd support the frame, remove U bolts and roll axle out, then drop the springs. Take the springs and have the original bushings pressed out before you get them blasted. They make urethane replacement kits that you can put it yourself.

D.PASSMORE 10-09-2015 07:21 AM

Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
 
I can see the others pictures now, cant see them om on my work computer. I agree now, its a 205. But, I have never seen a shifter lever for a 205 in the middle of a high hump. Always been to the right side. I believe in production, it was about earlyish/mid production run when they started installing NP 205's. Correct me if I'm wrong. But anywho, looking good! Are you going to have the drive train rebuilt?

K20rookie 10-09-2015 09:57 AM

Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by farmallboy15 (Post 7334656)
I really think that he has a 205. My 205 looks the same and has the shifter in the same location.. Also I thought the Rockwells were divorced. Regardless, once he cleans all the grease off he will find the tag on the back stating what make and model.

Sweet project by the way! Another option for the disc brakes on the front (if you're hung up on keeping the original axle), is to swap the outer knuckles with a later axle. That's what I did on my '70. But looking back, swapping out the axle would have been a heck of alot easier...

That's a sweet looking truck you got there! What size lift did you put on? I agree, my transfer case looks exactly like a 205. Same gear shift pattern as a 205 as well. I'll know for sure this weekend when I get it cleaned up.

I thought about doing the knuckle swap to keep the original axles, but like you said, an axle swap would be easier. Plus I've got the HO52 rear end, and I've heard its hard to find parts for it, especially the drums.

K20rookie 10-09-2015 10:05 AM

Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by msgross (Post 7334675)
NP205 was a first for 70, I think. My 68 has a rockwell, I can tell the difference by the back cover plate but can't see through that grime.

Springs are pretty straight forward. They are "sprung" like coil springs so no real danger. I'd support the frame, remove U bolts and roll axle out, then drop the springs. Take the springs and have the original bushings pressed out before you get them blasted. They make urethane replacement kits that you can put it yourself.

Appreciate the advice. Started on the u bolts last night, but man are they rusted on there.

farmallboy15 10-09-2015 10:44 AM

Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
 
Thanks for the compliment! It's a 2" Tuff Country from ORD. ORD greaseable bushings and HD shackles. I have the original 2" block under the rear. I wish there rear was still a little higher...


Another thing about the knuckles, if you want to throw some new bearings, u-joints and ball joints in you would have to tear it down to the same point so that might justify the effort... I lucked out with a Dana 60 rear. On the U-bolts and shackle bolts, pull out the angle grinder or fire wrench. It's alot easier.

K20rookie 10-09-2015 04:20 PM

Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by D.PASSMORE (Post 7335270)
I can see the others pictures now, cant see them om on my work computer. I agree now, its a 205. But, I have never seen a shifter lever for a 205 in the middle of a high hump. Always been to the right side. I believe in production, it was about earlyish/mid production run when they started installing NP 205's. Correct me if I'm wrong. But anywho, looking good! Are you going to have the drive train rebuilt?

Definitely. I plan on having the trans and t-case overhauled. Not sure yet if it's something I can do myself, or if I should take it to my buddy and let him do it.

K20rookie 10-09-2015 04:24 PM

Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
 
2 Attachment(s)
The block came back from the machine shop and it's painted! Still need to get the heads done, but I gotta space it out a little bit. Stuff gets expensive quick!

K20rookie 10-10-2015 12:06 PM

Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
 
2 Attachment(s)
More progress...got the rear end off yesterday afternoon. Pics don't show it, but rear leafs are off as well.

DeadheadNM 10-10-2015 01:31 PM

Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
 
Send me a PM if interested and when you get to that point in the build as I may have one last set of red NOS hub dials - they are labeled as Ford but are the same dials and the insert can be swapped to Spicer.

71meangreenc10 10-21-2015 06:43 PM

Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
 
Shoot me a PM if you need any help. Sierra Vista is small, but I have no idea where you are at. Building these trucks is a piece of cake....

Smitty

cmabolt 10-22-2015 07:43 AM

Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
 
Motor look great. Nothin better then a freshly painted motor. Except a bigger freshly painted motor. :)

Keep at it! Lookin good so far. I miss the disassembly part. That was the best.
Chris

77K10Silverado 10-29-2015 12:11 PM

Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
 
Nice work!! Keep going!

70LonghornCST 12-19-2015 10:47 PM

Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
 
Keep up the great work. I love to see it when well-used (loved) trucks get some TLC and get restored. :chevy:

Zane M 12-20-2015 07:24 PM

Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
 
Nice work! Looking forward to the progress!

cst204x4 12-24-2015 12:32 AM

Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
 
1970 4x4s had the 205 transfer case shift lever in the center of the high hump

Lmac 12-25-2015 11:41 PM

Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
 
Great job!! subscribed

El Dorado Jim 01-07-2016 10:26 PM

Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
 
nice truck, I have a 72 K20, love these trucks, just wanted to say that I have checked on which color is correct on the front hub centers, red or blue? seems like some 70 trucks and suburbans came with both, here is an interesting link,http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=543501," GMCgrim" in the 4x4 section, is selling blue anodized aluminum hub knobs for your old large spicer hubs, I just bought 2 sets from him, they are awesome....also, a great upgrade to your truck would be axles from a 73 or newer 3/4 ton 4x4 chevy/gmc truck up til about 76, they used dana 44 fronts and corporate 14 bolt rearends, alot more of these available than 71-72, the front will bolt right in, the rear spring perches and shock mounts need to be moved, worth it though, you get disc brakes and get rid of your eaton rear which is very expensive to get parts for, even brake drums are like $150.00 ea... another good upgrade is to put an HEI distributor in it, they are only $90.00 for a new complete distributor from Summit,also, I would suggest using the U-bolts and plates from 14 bolt,they go up from the bottom,with the plate on top of the springs, alot better design than the stock square u-bolts,don't have to worry about breaking the bolt ends off....I am planning on watching your build, love the history of it, Jim also, if going with front disc brakes,a master cylinder,booster ,rods and brackets out of a 71-72( 2 or 4 wheel drive)3/4 ton chevy/gmc will work


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