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-   -   1973 K20 Build Thread (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=430367)

ThreeQtr 10-27-2013 08:34 AM

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 
Where'd you go?
Updates???:metal::metal:

NASTY-LSX 10-31-2013 10:36 PM

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 
wow, pretty awesome. I love the stance. Great work!!:chevy:

bufmatmuslepants 11-29-2013 11:05 AM

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 
Dream truck build right here. Absolutely love everything. Only think I want to do differently is the 255/85s to give the tires just a little more height.

TheBlueBomber 12-18-2013 11:53 AM

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 
Definitely a cool build. Just got my thread up and am about to start tear into it now. Doing a lot of small projects now as I wait for the weather/funds to get better.

77K10Silverado 10-02-2014 09:54 PM

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 
Any updates on the truck? Love this thing and your thread!!

3/4ton Randy 10-11-2014 09:45 AM

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 
Thank you for taking the time to do such good documentation! I need to do the same thing on my '85 Chevy 3/4 4x4. You're better than shop manual!

TheWhiteElephant 10-19-2015 11:29 PM

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 
Whew! After a long hiatus, we are back! A lot has happened to me and my family personally, but not much has changed in my truck. I stopped posting mainly because I was so hyped that I got my truck running and enjoyed it for a (long) while. I had previously left off promising photos and progress of the lift install, brake line install, and frame painting. Unfortunately, a lot of the experience has faded in my memory banks, but fortunately I documented everything in pictures. I'll have to look through my hard drive, but if all goes well, I should get this build thread back on track. I have not yet worked on the body, but I have a couple of things planned for the near future--namely a points to HEI conversion and a radiator swap. I'm also waiting for a eBay 650 Holley DP to rebuild and put atop a 2101 Edelbrock Performer intake.

I want to say thanks to all who have taken the time to read through this thread and especially those that have taken the time to provide positive feedback and kind words. Thank you all, and I hope to see more of you guys here in the near future.

MTCK 10-20-2015 12:22 AM

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 
Welcome back. Glad you have been getting seat time and enjoying the truck.

TheWhiteElephant 10-20-2015 12:26 AM

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by MTCK (Post 7347162)
Welcome back. Glad you have been getting seat time and enjoying the truck.

Thanks, Marcus! Happy to be back!

y5mgisi 10-20-2015 09:32 AM

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 
Wow! I thought you were gone and lost forever! Glad to see you back! Your build was one of my favorites simply due to your level of detail and your willingness to document and share that detail!

Doug_J 10-20-2015 12:26 PM

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by y5mgisi (Post 7347388)
Wow! I thought you were gone and lost forever! Glad to see you back! Your build was one of my favorites simply due to your level of detail and your willingness to document and share that detail!

I agree. Welcome back can't wait to see some more of them pictures.

77K10Silverado 10-29-2015 11:38 AM

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by TheWhiteElephant (Post 7347092)
Whew! After a long hiatus, we are back! A lot has happened to me and my family personally, but not much has changed in my truck. I stopped posting mainly because I was so hyped that I got my truck running and enjoyed it for a (long) while. I had previously left off promising photos and progress of the lift install, brake line install, and frame painting. Unfortunately, a lot of the experience has faded in my memory banks, but fortunately I documented everything in pictures. I'll have to look through my hard drive, but if all goes well, I should get this build thread back on track. I have not yet worked on the body, but I have a couple of things planned for the near future--namely a points to HEI conversion and a radiator swap. I'm also waiting for a eBay 650 Holley DP to rebuild and put atop a 2101 Edelbrock Performer intake.

I want to say thanks to all who have taken the time to read through this thread and especially those that have taken the time to provide positive feedback and kind words. Thank you all, and I hope to see more of you guys here in the near future.


No, thank you!!!!

My 1/2 ton is a lot different than the 3/4 stuff but I have learned a lot and continue to look back for pointers through my build. You should check mine out if you get time. Maybe I can return the favors!

More pics and posts would be greatly appreciated!:flag:

TheWhiteElephant 12-12-2015 10:38 AM

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 
2 Attachment(s)
Okay, so I've spent the last few years driving the truck (very little, I might add). After sitting for a long time, I decided to get it back on the road.

My next project for it was to do a disc brake conversion to the rear. This is a very popular "upgrade", and after having done it, my honest review is that I probably shouldn't have done it. The truth is, there is no need to do this on a daily driver. The rear drums work just fine. There is absolutely no "significant" weight savings. BUT it does look very cool. :ito:

What triggered the decision to convert to discs was that I discovered a leaky hub seal on one side. The seals were new Timkens, but I would guess that they dried/hardened a bit since the truck hardly moved in the last few years. In fact, I'm almost positive this is what caused the seal to leak. Long story short, when I went in to replace the seal, I was reminded how much I absolutely HATE to work on drum brakes. Leaky hub seals are hell. They will ruin brake shoes if you don't catch them in time. Not only did I have to replace the seal, but also the brake shoes. Then when I went to look at the other side, I discovered that the other seal was starting to leak as well. This alone convinced me to convert to discs. I just had the truck inspected, and it will not pass inspection without an emergency brake, so my idea is to replace the calipers with the '76-'78 Cadillac Eldorado calipers, which I will do within the next year. Perhaps somewhat of a "not-so-very-good" idea, but at least it gives me another project for the truck. :metal:

You can now get complete kits from many different vendors. There are quite a few vendors on ebay who will sell you a complete bolt-on kit. With the exception of the caliper brackets, you can get everything from the auto parts stores piecing everything together yourself. Depending on whether you choose to use stainless brake lines or hard lines (you will have to cut/flare/join the lines if you do this), you can save about $50+ dollars if you put the kit together yourself. This is what I did. When I first put the truck together 4+ years ago, there weren't many vendors to offer these kits.

The only parts I ordered were the bolt in brackets from Ruff Stuff Specialties--very nicely cut and beefy brackets complete with new grade 8 hardware:

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/14BSRW.html

I also purchased rear Kevlar-coated stainless steel brake lines from Offroad Design to match the fronts. I have always been happy with the products from Offroad Design and get them whenever I have a chance to.

http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/discbrakelinekits.htm

TheWhiteElephant 12-12-2015 11:06 AM

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 
5 Attachment(s)
I shot some Rustoleum primer, then some gloss black, and bolted them up.

Attachment 1476246

Attachment 1476247

While I had everything apart, I also installed redi-sleeves on the spindle surfaces where the hub seals ride. The main reason the seals leak is due to worn/pitted spindle surfaces. Although the seals are made of rubber, they will still wear a groove on the spindle surface. Mine looked good, even after polishing the surface with emery paper, but in the end I decided to sleeve them anyway, just to be sure. There are plenty of internet write-ups on how to install these sleeves, so I'll just post photos. I did have to buy a 3" exhaust pipe from O'Reilly's to use as a press.

You will need National part number 99282. Local parts store has it for $45, but I found them on Amazon for under $25.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...2494&ppt=C2389

Here is what the spindle surfaces looked like. Not too bad, but it was definitely grooved.

Attachment 1476257

Here is what the redi-sleeve looks like installed along with how I used the pipe and bearing press. I taped it to one end. It must go on perfectly square. I pressed it in using a hammer, the 3" exhaust pipe, and a bearing press I rented from O'Reilly's. It is not necessary to tear out the pressing surface/lip, so I left it on. It won't hurt anything, and it will just cause you extra work if you remove it.

Attachment 1476260
Attachment 1476261

TheWhiteElephant 12-12-2015 11:20 AM

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 
5 Attachment(s)
Sometimes the studs will bee too short. Fortunately, I was able to use mine. They could be a little longer, but they are long enough to work for me. Refer to the previous steps on how to remove the studs. I installed them on the hubs like I did previously, once again, refer to earlier posts here.

One thing that is very important, and that not everyone mentions, YOU MUST PRESS THE STUDS IN ALL THE WAY!!! If you don't, there will be some play of the rotor, and it will vibrate while turning. Some internet "experts" have this issue because they do not press in the studs all the way through. The studs must be pressed ALL the way through. If you have installed all the studs and the rotor has play--you can see/feel this by moving the rotor, you haven't pressed the studs in far enough.

TheWhiteElephant 12-12-2015 11:23 AM

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 
2 Attachment(s)
Here are some more "after" pics:

TheWhiteElephant 12-12-2015 11:30 AM

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 
I have recently done several small projects on the truck. I put in new door bushings, installed an Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley 650, and the almighty HEI distributor!!! I'll post pics and updates shortly.

MTCK 12-12-2015 12:33 PM

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 
Nice work! And a good honest review of the discs... Looking forward to the motor upgrades.

Dalaigh 12-12-2015 02:22 PM

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 
Glad to see this truck is back on the road, it's suck an awesome looking old girl…

swamp rat 12-13-2015 04:17 AM

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 
I did my conversion mainly because parts are getting harder to find, plus its easy to do future brake jobs. You did a good write up.

rusty76 12-13-2015 10:34 AM

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 
I'll have to go back and read through this one but dog gone it I'm in.

SamsAutoParts73-87 12-13-2015 12:04 PM

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 
Very nice write-up, I have been thinking about doing the swap for the same reasons that Swamp Rat did it, easier and cheaper brake jobs in the future. Last time I put shoes on my truck it ran about $100.

-Sam

y5mgisi 12-14-2015 12:55 PM

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 
Man! Just so glad to have you back on and working on the truck! I also did disc brakes on the rear of my c20 and am not sure it was really the best decision. I can't say I really regret it, but it's not some super upgrade. I really want to swap in a late model disc setup so I can get a factory style parking brake. I hear the caddy ones rarely work worth a poo.

http://i597.photobucket.com/albums/t...psfbqrtwld.jpg

72MARIO 12-14-2015 04:23 PM

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 
I have had caddy calipers on my work truck for 7 years. Never had a problem. I have made a habit of using the parking brake. the truck is parked during the salt season. I have over 70000 miles on mine and have not changed the brake pads yet.

collin70k/20 06-03-2016 09:51 AM

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 
Any updates?


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