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The Pig Rig!
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Just got a 88 Suburban 4x4, and decided to call it "The Pig Rig"!
First thing I did was rip the running boards off, put a new battery in, and do some general maintenance. the truck was filthy when I got it, so I spent several hours (8+) cleaning the truck inside and out. Short range plan: 3 inch tuff country lift, and 33x10.50 R15 BFG All Terrain t/a's. the muffler is rotted through, so I will probably throw a hooker aerochamber in it's place, but otherwise leave it stock. I'm also planning on 3.73's or 4.11's. (I think it has 3.08's now.) Long range plan: 3/4 or 1 ton rear axle w/2500hd disc brakes, and swap the front knuckles to 8 lug and mod them for matching 2500hd brakes, then there's the engine, planning on a as stock as possible 6.0 4L80e, maybe headers, but probably just manifolds. overall, the paint is Ok, not multi color(well you know what I mean...) it appears to have been in at least one accident that damaged the passenger side door, and another that damaged the grill front bumper and hood, the door damage was fixed, but very poorly prepped for paint, and therefore looks pretty bad up close. the bumper, grill and hood still needs to be fixed, but it shouldn't be too hard. |
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Congrats! Those colors are my favorite on two tone Burbs. How is the interior?
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Nice truck. Reminds me of mine except mine is 2wd. I like your plans with the truck. I swapped a 6.0l/4l80 into mine also and love it.
Can’t wait to see how yours turns out. |
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These suburbans are great! Had a 91' when I lived in Renton/Kent. With all the rain all the time....so nice to have dry hauling ability and the suburban did that perfectly!
You can get a new carpet set from stockinteriors.com for a decent price and it really helps freshen up the interior. The actual carpet manufacturer is ACC. |
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so, here's a few updates...
the truck now has a big block 4 core radiator, which I finished installing right before the heater core let go... DOH! the plans for this bad boy have changed drastically, as a result, I picked up some new stuff, I picked up a new front axle so I could get it setup 8 lug now, and once I have a donor truck, swap in the whole axle, probably way faster than swapping the hubs alone. it also allows me to set an axle up with late model brakes, and make that part of the swap quicker as well. all that being said, I think this axle might get resold, I'l definitely prefer to have a dana 60 under this truck for reasons to be explained shortly... I also picked up a NP205 transfer case, and have a line on an NP203 so I can build a doubler! I knew I would need a heavy duty transfer case, so the new plans, and when this popped up for $50... how could I say no! now that you're all wondering what these new crazy plans are, I'll spill the beans! without further ado, the new plans, are to find a 04.5-06(or 07 classic) chevy/GMC 2500 HD donor truck, but instead of everyone's favorite LQ4 or LQ9, I'm gonna go for that LLY or LBZ! Precision fabrication makes a mount kit, so all I really have to do is find a donor, and do the heavy lifting! https://precisionfabricationplus.com...uburban&page=1 the idea is that I'll throw a pretty much bone stock DMAX in, and have a very powerful, very reliable, daily driver ready for anything I want to throw at it! Edit: if you have a dana 60 front axle for sale in Washington, I'm interested. |
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I really like your idea of a stock Duramax in your Suburban. That'll be a near perfect daily driver ready for anything! Can't wait to see progress on this :metal:
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This is gonna be epic! I will be following along. |
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I sure hope so, there's more than one badass Duramax project out there, this one, will probably be one of the more tame examples, the plan is to keep it as stock as possible, maybe an air intake and a down pipe, and tune, but otherwise, only mods to make the engine fit will be undertaken, to ensure the reliability remains intact. the A1000 will also remain stock, short of mods required to make it work with the NP203/205 doubler, which, from what I can see right now, will be a non issue anyways. the biggest issue I'm running into will be finding a dana 60 front axle that won't cost me 50K... I really don't want to play around and blow up a ten bolt when there are simple enough solutions out there.
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Will you wheel it hard enough to justify chasing down a 60? Just a thought, but you could install an 8-lug 10-bolt and run it while keeping an eye out for a Dana 60.
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Also scored a 40 gallon gas tank, and 5 wheels, w/ hubcaps. only 1 tire is any good, it will go on the truck as the spare. Edit: all this for $460! |
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got an NP203 today... damn those suckers are heavy! almost ready to start work on the doubler kit!
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Right on!:metal:
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found a smoking deal on a set of BFG KM3's, now I need to get the axle swap and lift started!
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heater core is installed. still need to hook it up, but I'm going to flush the rest of the cooling system with it bypassed first, try and make sure there's no BS in there to clog it up.
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Awesome progress! What size are the KM3's you got a deal on?
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The KM3's are 285/75r16's, they're practically brand new!
Got a bunch of work done yesterday to get the engine e ready to be pulled so I can swap out the the rear main seal. I'm trying to decide if I should rebuild the transmission too while I'm in that deep. |
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made a bit of progress in the past two days, I decided to go ahead and pull the engine to replace the rear main seal, and oil pan gasket. I also decided, that because I would have it this far apart, it was a good time to throw on a new timing chain. I disconnected the wiring from the engine, the torque converter bolts, and began loosening the bell housing bolts. if everything goes according to plan, I'll have the engine out tomorrow afternoon. at this point, I'm contemplating rebuilding the transmission as well. a kit is about $280 for an all inclusive kit, and I'll have to pick up a few special tools, but it doesn't appear to be anything too crazy, and would give a HUGE amount of insurance for the Alaska trip.
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been a hot minute since the last update, as seen in the last picture, the engine is out, and I started disassembly, all 8 plugs showed no signs of oil consumption, and with the oil pan removed, no crazy deposits or sludge was visible
Clearly someone had been in the engine before me, as these never came stock with a double roller timing chain. but, if you look to the picture of the oil pan, notice in the oil pump pickup? yeah, big chunks of bull****. it's all plastic material, I determined it was a nylon hose clamp similar to the one in the pictures: |
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at this point, I had no plans to go any further into the bottom end, but I wasn't comfortable with the debris, so I decided it would be a good idea to pop a main cap, and a rod cap to check a couple of bearings, and the results were less than desired...
it's hard to tell in the pictures, but there is a nice score in the bearing, with copper showing. the #1 main bearing also had a bit of wear with visible copper. the journals on the crank are also scored... I attempted to polish the scores out, but they are beyond my capability to repair. at this point, I have about 6 options. have the crank ground, which costs about $200 buy a replacement crank, which is about $180 buy a junkyard engine, which is probably about $700, with questionable condition buy a reman shortblock, which runs about $900, with more confidence. and finally, the most expensive, but probably best option, buy a wrecked or otherwise low cost late model suburban/tahoe with a 4.8 or 5.3, some swap mounts, and smash the two together for about $2500 theoretically, I could part out the late model and recoup some of my costs, but I'm unsure of what parts are worth for one, so I probably won't go that route. realistically, I'm probably going to buy a replacement crank, clean up the block as best as I can, and get it on the road. my biggest concern with a replacement crank, is that the balance of the engine may not be right anymore with the new crank, but, this isn't exactly a high RPM monster either, and I imagine an 80's GM rotating assembly probably wasn't balanced that precisely anyways. |
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That sucks. Do you have a machine shop near you that you know and trust? If so, might be worth it to give them a call and get their thoughts about ground crank vs new and the balance issue. Good luck with it.
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Looking good! Bad news about the engine, but at least you were able to fix it while you were in there and it's going back together now.
I think a good rebuild on the transmission wouldn't be a bad idea, as long as you're not super tight on time incase anything else comes up. |
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it is what it is... I'd rather find out the bearing are messed up in the garage, than on the side of the road somewhere in Canada...
things are slowly coming together, it's going to look nice when I put it back in, and at this point, the only thing holding it back is the flywheel bolts, one of them didn't want to play nice coming out, so it has to be replaced... the air tube cleaned up nice, I'm surprised to see GM used stainless for it... I picked up a set of "flat-top" knuckles from a D44 axle. they fit the 10 bolt and allow me to bolt a steering arm to the passenger side knuckle for the drag link to attach, so I can run crossover steering and improve steering under articulation. |
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Good thinking for sure, better to fix now then be on a tow truck far from home.
The engine is looking good and nice score on the flat top knuckles! |
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not really much to report. I'm hoping to have the engine back in by the end of the weekend. I removed the brackets for the quadshocks, and threw a little paint on the firewall, it looks way better in person, the rough top edge is GM's black seam sealer... I also did an inspection of the wiring harness, and found a few things that I didn't like... The PO seemed to think of this as a "Fix",I cut the damage out, crimped a splice, and heat shrunk the affected wires. then I found some abrasion damage on the TPS 5v ref,again, I cut out the damage, and spliced in new wire. I also found out the motor mounts I bought shortly after buying this truck, are not the right mounts, at all, and of coarse I don't have the boxes or receipts either... DOH. I also have heard plenty of stories of parts store mounts lasting a few weeks before failing, so maybe it's for the better, because I just ordered a set of poly engine and trans mounts. The EGR solenoid that was on the truck had failed, and been plugged by the previous owner, so I also ordered a new on as well, hopefully it will clear the CEL that was in. |
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I replaced the engine mount inserts. the old mounts fell apart bad. I wanted to use rubber to reduce NVH, but I couldn't find a rubber mount I liked, they all looked like cheap garbage.
https://i.imgur.com/vs6gRyV.jpg https://i.imgur.com/zTQNnea.jpg https://i.imgur.com/cZzHl9Q.jpg The engine is ready to go back in the truck, with the exception of installing the flexplate, it won't fit between the stand and block. https://i.imgur.com/6233m8P.jpg https://i.imgur.com/r6DHa2b.jpg https://i.imgur.com/UFCH6FZ.jpg https://i.imgur.com/TOTDd7b.jpg I pulled the steering gearbox, shaft, and pump, in preparation for a frame reinforcement, a box brace, and an XJ steering shaft with U-joints. this part is actually what's holding me back from getting the engine back into the truck. of the four bolts holding the box on, only one was more than finger tight... ! on a more comforting note, I didn't see any cracks in the frame. https://i.imgur.com/soNqqfI.jpg https://i.imgur.com/1EqD4bV.jpg https://i.imgur.com/a0AqPGg.jpg https://i.imgur.com/bgc11hm.jpg https://i.imgur.com/80HPctw.jpg https://i.imgur.com/y4kWltB.jpg with the exception of the Y pipe, the exhaust is trash, I'll have to throw something together to get it roadworthy. https://i.imgur.com/f5mjtIO.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Z09gnKk.jpg https://i.imgur.com/I6ERjqV.jpg https://i.imgur.com/xpzHAmI.jpg https://i.imgur.com/vefuyUN.jpg https://i.imgur.com/DC1GXi7.jpg |
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tore down the 3/4 tone front axle to install new ball joints I also threw some paint on it:
https://i.imgur.com/sZknKym.jpg the axle seals are inboard for some ungodly reason... https://i.imgur.com/9xMulyf.jpg I got the new steering gearbox in, hopefully the box brace and frame support come in tomorrow https://i.imgur.com/sApYlYQ.jpg I noticed that between my 3 front axles, I have 2 different center links, one, from the 3/4 ton, is a 2 piece unit, the other 2 are three pieces. the 3/4 ton looks a little stronger. https://i.imgur.com/a69Ci4W.jpg I pulled the axles out of the spare 1/2 ton axle, I'm going to clean them up and keep them on the shelf just in case I break one of the 3/4 ton shafts. https://i.imgur.com/mDxQVpI.jpg |
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I'm enjoying your work on this one.
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Looking great!
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I was going to press in new U joints into my front axle shafts. either I did something very wrong, or that one is stuck good... thankfully I have spare shafts from the axle in the truck, and the axle I picked up a few months ago. https://i.imgur.com/1q5l1PQ.jpg on the subject of U joints, I got the new steering shaft in, it's mostly installed, but will need to be compressed to fit. https://i.imgur.com/288CodI.jpg New exhaust is reman parts from walker, all look pretty nice, and almost exact bolt on. the tailpipe is missing a hanger bracket though... oh well, I'll get the welder out and fix it in no time flat. https://i.imgur.com/4vdQ9yA.jpg https://i.imgur.com/XjmYhsE.jpg the first of the performance oriented parts arrived, this is a rear shackle flip bracket, from Off road Design. hopefully I'll have a big box on the porch when I get home Tuesday that I can play with. https://i.imgur.com/EdQtFxm.jpg I bent up some nice stainless trans cooler lines, just to find that my routing plan wouldn't work... DOH. so instead, I ran some -6 hose from the trans to the radiator. I used some russell's adapters to go from the 5/16" inverted flare, to -6 AN. https://i.imgur.com/bGsBPAt.jpg and the big news, the engine is back in the truck! https://i.imgur.com/I4uuUBX.jpg I'm almost ready for the first firing, all I have left for a test run to set timing, is to terminate the plug wires, put the exhaust on, add oil, and a battery. https://i.imgur.com/faZvGsw.jpg https://i.imgur.com/9DXR3d9.jpg Hopefully, Tuesday afternoon I can get the bulk of the work required to start the engine done, and maybe fire it up Tuesday afternoon/night. |
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Nice job!
I have a 1991 Suburban sitting around. It runs good but needs some work: steering box, new rear springs, etc. Somebody suggested I find an entire set of 3/4 ton axles and springs and just "bolt them in." Ha - nothing is ever that simple //wink |
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turns out, I used the wrong fittings on the transmission cooler lines, I used straight hose ends on the transmission, but should have used 45*, with the straight ends, the hoses try and occupy the same space as the Y pipe, thankfully, I have some scrap stainless tubing, that I flared and bent to re-position the lines out of the way. My crossover steer kit came in, as well as my steering box brace. the box brace is installed, and the exhaust is almost done, I didn't get a chance to really work on it today, the weather wasn't exactly cooperating. hopefully tomorrow, I can finish the exhaust and plug wires
the brace is pretty beefy, kinda a PITA to install, I can't imagine trying to do it with the engine accessories on, and the radiator installed. https://i.imgur.com/MELGwhM.jpg https://i.imgur.com/J24bQgQ.jpg I also cleaned all the old grease out of the front wheel bearings with plans to repack them and roll, but one of the inners looked kinda meh, and the other looked like dog crap, thankfully, new timken's are only about $10 a piece. the outers looked great, so I'll just repack them and call it good. pro tip, gasoline removes wheel bearing grease like nobody's business. |
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New exhaust is tucked way up there:
https://i.imgur.com/roAUnkB.jpg https://i.imgur.com/fm5PZpw.jpg https://i.imgur.com/kPoB5jM.jpg Please excuse my really crappy tig welds. https://i.imgur.com/1OI4lyj.jpg I made some new plug wires, the routing turned out pretty nice, I'll get pictures tomorrow. and... IT RUNS AGAIN! https://youtu.be/aq_Z1dHt8Go |
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My poor old 91 suburban feels so neglected now ...
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lol, thats how my project car, and my DD both feel right now!
I pulled the 6 lug front axle out: https://i.imgur.com/w9tTE74.jpg Hung new springs: https://i.imgur.com/z8nfrtM.jpg and got the housing in: https://i.imgur.com/JC4zl7b.jpg https://i.imgur.com/5oeCW1k.jpg this is when I started to hit a few snags, the tierod is super close to the leaf springs, way too close, especially when you consider the fact that the ball joints and leaf spring U bolts aren't tight yet. the knuckles are pre-1977, which have a top down taper, instead of a bottom up taper. https://i.imgur.com/JH68QKK.jpg https://i.imgur.com/tCkT4xo.jpg https://i.imgur.com/qrLj6pV.jpg https://i.imgur.com/UJrSot4.jpg I started working on the rear brakes. the shoes look great, and there really isn't that much dust, I suspect they have been under utilized, maybe a bad rear brake line not passing fluid? https://i.imgur.com/QjUy0fW.jpg https://i.imgur.com/YQMaDcX.jpg https://i.imgur.com/3rMf5JD.jpg The fluid in the wheel cylinder was nasty. I'm going to replace them both, they're only about $10 each, so well worth it. for good measure, I'll do the calipers too. https://i.imgur.com/4jC0sZe.jpg |
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Can you put shims between the axle and springs to get a wee bit more tie rod clearance?
They should both go up and down together though, right? A miss is a good as a mile. |
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We commonly will use these to get some Tie rod clearance on the nut down knuckles
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/Axl...%20Plates.html Edit: I think you ended up doing High steer? |
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