Making Keys For The ’60 -‘66 Chevy Trucks
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This "How To" is for the guys & gals that have a door handle with a lock for their 1960-1966 Chevy truck but no key. It is pretty straight forward but I have had a couple of people ask me how to get a key cut for them. First thing you have to do is remove the handle assembly from your door (if it isn't already out). (picture 1).... To remove the lock cylinder assembly push down on the top spring cup and remove the snap ring. (picture 2) Then slide the spring assembly out making sure to keep the parts in order. (picture 3) If you will notice the spring cups are different on each end of the spring. After you have the spring assembly out slide the lock cylinder and shaft out. You don't have to worry too much about this as it will only go back in one way…. On the cast piece just below the chrome cap you should find a code number stamped. (picture 4) If your local locksmith can't cut you a key from that code number that will fit the lock I can. It should also fit the ignition lock and glove box lock if none of the locks have been changed or replaced. I can't guarantee there will be a code number on every lock, but if there isn't, the chrome cap can be removed and a key made by "reading" the wafers in the cylinder. If you have questions PM me..... LockDoc |
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thank you. wish i seen this before the locksmith destroy my ignition switch and still charged me $90
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Lots of good info Thank for that
Soooo.... when you going to show us " How to make a Key".? Come on Don't make me beg i live in an area that does not have a locksmith/shoe repairman or a dry cleaner or traffic light's we don't lock our car's or house and when we do the key is "Under the mat/flower pot or on the visor" |
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Making a key is easy. First you buy an $800 Framon key machine that will cut keys by code, then you buy the $200 Code program to convert the code numbers on the locks to the cuts on the key blank, put the key blank in the machine, adjust the settings for the key you will be cutting and turn the switch on.... That is why I mentioned in my first post "If you can't find anyone in your area to cut a key from the code # or by reading the wafers let me know."...:) There are probably other people on line that cut keys by code too. LockDoc |
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It is people like you contributing that make this site that much more awesome !!
Thanks !! I will need this soon. So what you are offering, is if our local locksmith is an a$$hat, you can help us out ?? :metal: |
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Thanks John. Yes, I can cut keys by code, or reading the wafers.... LockDoc |
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Thanks LockDoc, this is golden information.
-W |
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Kind of related, but you can have a lock redone to match a key too. My son and I took a lock button out of the drivers side of a junkyard truck, and had our local locksmith pull out the wafers and match them to his key. Put the lock button in the passenger door (upside down though), now we can unlock it from both sides.
Took him 5 minutes, and was like $20. |
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Thanks LockDoc for taking the time to photograph and document the process. These tutorials reach a lot of people that may never respond, but benefit from the information.
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Thanks man.
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Very useful. I may look into this in the future.
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LockDoc |
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Does this is in any way give you the ability to IMPROVE these locks? I mean, right now the ol' screwdriver "master key" works pretty good. Wouldn't mind improving that.
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That's some good info. I guess I got lucky my Key actually locks the doors and the glove box. I have locked it sometimes since I have a lot of tools in the floor board...
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If the locks are old and worn out, replacing the worn out tumblers and springs with new ones and cutting a new key to factory specifications would restore the locks original security. Quote:
LockDoc - |
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I learned how to make keys and re-code lock cylinders while working the parts counter at a Chevy dealership about 20 years ago. It's not too hard. If you find a dealership that still has an oldtimer behind the counter, there's a little hand-held device that will punch out a new key to match the coding of your lock cylinder. Easy to do and not too expensive.
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Funny this thread should pop up now.. I had to drive my 63 to work today because the brakes on my 97 were acting up.. Anyways I work in Detroit ,and hate the fact that mine doesn't lock .. I always make sure I have a clear shot from the store to see my truck .... It would sure be nice, then I would have to make my vent windows lock ,..lol
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LockDoc |
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http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cbe/full.aspx?Page=14 |
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Question for LockDoc: I've heard rumor that GM had far fewer codes for keys than one might expect. Say, like a couple hundred different keys TOTAL, for ALL makes and models. Thousands and thousands of vehicles built every year, and not anywhere near the same number when talking key differentiation.
Is this true? Can you tell by your key code book how many actual separate codes existed for our vehicles of that era? |
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For all GM vehicles from 1935 through 1966 there were 1499 different keys. For 1967 up there were about the same except that there were 4 different ignition keyways ("A", "C", "E", & "J") which effectively gave 5996 different keys for the ignitions. LockDoc |
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My uncle started going through all the keys he has saved from the Chevy's he has owned over the years, and trying them in the ignition of my 64 C10. I thought he was crazy. Sure enough, the somewhat larger square-headed key from a 76 Impala he used to own fits perfectly in my ignition, and starts the truck easily.
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Sometime you're lucky and the key code is on the key.
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Thanks for info about the #'s stamped into the lock cylinder. LocDoc, are there different pins or wafers for the door cylinders that are more pick proof? I seem to remember reading in a locksmithing book about it. How hard would it be to key 3 lock cylinders alike for our panels or suburbans? Thx.......Dog
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GM has used the Briggs & Stratton side bar lock since 1935 and because of it's design it is almost impossible to pick. It's pretty easy to key the lock cylinders the same on the '60-'66 GM trucks. LockDoc |
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Thanks again for the info Lock Doc!
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If you can, whats the cost of re-keying a Suburban tailgate lock to match the front doors? I replaced my tailgate lock on my 65 about a year ago with a new lock, but have a seperate key for it. It's a Briggs key. I'm trying to get down to just a few keys on my ring.
Thanks |
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It would run about 10 bucks plus shipping back to you. LockDoc |
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Could I get the code off my original ignition cylinder and have a key made, my 62 didn't have a key with it when I bought it, and I bought a new cylinder but I'd like to keep the original in it
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I'll try to get my back door and 2 front door locks to you after the first of the year when everything settles down after the holidays. I need the fronts re-done as I'm still using the ORIGINAL key and it's pretty well worn. |
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So do you match locks with keys? Over time I've managed to get everything mixed and would like it all to work with 1 key again.
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is there a way to make the Door key match the Ignition Key?
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Yes, either the door lock/locks can be re-keyed or the ignition lock can be re-keyed to match the other. LockDoc |
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Hi LockDoc. What do you need to rekey the ignition and door lock to match?
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Wanted to post in this thread....Mr Leon rebuilt my door locks and re-keyed a glove box lock for me. He also cut me 2 keys from original blanks. If you are considering having this done I would highly suggest using Mr, Leon.....He did an awesome job for me, quickly and everything works perfectly. I really appreciate it a lot Mr Leon.
John |
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I have a '63 C10...the door and glove compartment are one key and the ignition is a separate key. Was my truck a one key or two key originally?
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LockDoc |
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