Door Panel Repair, Recover, Strip or Replace?
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I haven't take the door panels off yet, but I'm wondering what my options are.
Cheaper is better. ;) Can I repair the torn wrinkled vinyl at the bottom with a heat gun?? Then vinyl paint? Recovering with new Vinyl or Leather (to match my gray leather buckets) is another option. Assuming just remove old vinyl, cut new stuff to fit (with 2" overlap), spray adhesive and mount? Strip vinyl (and the wood grain piece?) off completely, then just repaint the metal panels and go no vinyl?? Is this an option? Ordo I just buy the metal repops from truckandcarshop and paint them? |
Re: Door Panel Repair, Recover, Strip or Replace?
There are many vendors out there who sell the vinyl to recover the panels. I’ve never purchased them, but it may be worth a shot.
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your not fixing that drivers door with a heat gun , you can probably sell the pass door panel and just buy 2 new ones and paint to match interior .the old vinyl covered panels are usually rusted out under the cover and the 4 screws across the bottom are probably frozen so order a new set of those also :chevy:
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I just bought a piece of vinyl to cover some metal repops. Its just plain vinyl, nothing fancy.
$30 for material $10 for adhesive $40 for both doors is considered "cheaper is better" |
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Remove and assess the condition of metal once you pull the vinyl off. They may not be rusted or damaged. New vinyl can hide any repairs, but if you prefer exposed metal that's another story. Soak the crap out of those screw/bolts at the bottom before attempting anything else. I mean A LOT!
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Re: Door Panel Repair, Recover, Strip or Replace?
Got the drivers panel off. The panel is rusted quite a bit underneath the vinyl. Don't know if it is rusted through, but I ordered replacement metal panels already so it doesn't matter.
Two of the 4 attached screw nuts are gone (there were only 2 screws holding the bottom of panel). I have some of those "clip-in" nuts. I was able to get one in, but the front one isnt accessible from inside (additional inner wall in door blocking access). What's the fix?? Find a nut that fits in the square hole and spot weld it in?? I also got all the hardware off the outside of the door (this door is rough and will need stripping and painting). ALl except the top bolt holding the mirror bracket on (the one closest to the front/top of door). That nut is a pain to get to and rusted solid. Hopefully soaking in som PB blaster will loosen it up (man that stuff stinks). |
Re: Door Panel Repair, Recover, Strip or Replace?
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I got the doors stripped, minus the one upper mirror bracket on passenger side, I'm gonna have to grind off those rusty bolts.
I had two nutserts (or whatever they are called) fail on disassembly. I was able to find one I had, but it is for a larger bolt so I plan to replace that one. What do I do about the corner one? No way to access that hole from inside door. Just spot weld a nut in that spot?? |
Re: Door Panel Repair, Recover, Strip or Replace?
Cage nuts are not to tough to find. They just not in box stores. Find a real hardware store or search on the interweb. You don't have to access the back side to install them. I wouldn't weld a nut in as the lack of access to the back means you won't be able to paint the weld and it will start rusting.
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I'll see if I can find some "cage nuts" at the local specialty fastener store. |
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Plus this truck has plenty of rust that I'm not messing with (nothing structural, but this isn't a frame off kinda deal). I'm not too worried about a welded internal nut (if it comes to that). ;) |
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Mine were metal, and I wanted vinyl, so I went to the fabric shop and then to the hardware store for come contact cement. Even re-covered the arm rests and dash while I was at it! Am I cheap? yep. Am I satisfied...yep! :D https://i.imgur.com/XOaxVtkl.jpg |
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Say, is that a tiny tweeter above your window crank? I found a tiny pair of them [Radio Shack Optima -- NIB] cleaning out a back room today. Some purists hate in-door speakers, but for me that was a rocking location. You just have to muffle the back of the cone, to keep the door metal from unwanted vibrations at advanced decibels. |
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Oh that ain't nuttin'! Wanna see cheap? When I first got this truck 22+ years ago, the bed consisted of disintegrating rusted bed strips and a few wood splinters. So I priced some bed wood kits from the usual vendors...:eek: Went to a boat shop and got a 3/4"X4'X8' piece of marine plywood, which I shortened to fit. VERY STRONG! so I threw out those cross sill bars (oops :o) and put polished stainless strips on top for looks. I drive my 450 lb. quad onto it, and after I strap it down, it doesn't go anywhere, even when I've had to make snappy lane changes due to other drivers. The totes are so groceries don't slide everywhere. https://i.imgur.com/yIgr5bMl.jpg |
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Extravagant???
Me??? Not really, it rains a lot around here in Western WA. and this is a daily driver. I was not only cheap, but lazy enough to not want to have to replace it in 5 years or so. :lol: |
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Yes the door speakers (mid & tweeter) are Sherwood's with a cross-over. No cover or insulation in there, and as far as I'm concerned, none needed. I have a Rockford Fosgate 8" sub in an enclosure between the buckets with the same brand bridged amp. under the drivers seat. https://i.imgur.com/nx0FKOUl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/6208fCYl.jpg The door speakers, and the ear blaster (for lack of a better term) speakers are powered by another amp. under the passenger seat. https://i.imgur.com/bp5xWugl.jpg Blew up the original ear blaster speakers, so I cut in some quality Pioneer speakers to replace them. https://i.imgur.com/S02hdCsl.jpg Toss in a JVC stereo system, and the next thing you know you're cruising down the highway in Carnegie Hall! :metal: https://i.imgur.com/LQptf7el.jpg https://i.imgur.com/EllK7Ijl.jpg |
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Judy Collins once said she asked an old blind street musician in New York City ''how to get to Carnagie Hall?'' He shook his head and said: "Practice... practice... practice." |
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