SBC 350 Aches and pains
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Starts well.
idles well. drives well on light throttle. But from about 30% throttle, she starts to "backfire" - but through exhaust,left side only. The more throttle, the more backfiring. This is what I found on #3exh when I removed the heads. |
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Ouch!
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You might need a new valve there...
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Yep, having tge heads "done", including new valve.
Amazingly, no visible damage to the cast iron head |
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I've been wondering if these heads are ready for unleaded...
How would I know? |
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As far as I know if they don't have hardened seats such as Stellite then they are old school and not so good for unleaded gas, but maybe I don't know very much. I could be just guessing on this one.
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I wonder why it burned in one spot like that.
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Looks more like something got stuck in there at one time.
What does the piston on that cylinder look like? |
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Nothing on that piston to set it apart from the others.
Not at home at present, so I can't post a pic. |
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They went to hardened seats when they changed away from leaded fuel.
This is a valve problem not a seat problem. |
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At least on US spec. engines, In 1971 GM dropped the compression ratio from 9.0-1
to 8.0-1 and started " Induction hardening" the valve seats in the heads to allow the use of unleaded gasoline. Glad you are able to repair your engine backfire issue Philip! All The Best Dirk |
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Just an update on my woes:
Valve replaced, heads serviced, reinstalled. Starts well. Idles well Drives well on light throttle. But from about 30% throttle, she starts to "backfire" - but through exhaust,left side only. The more throttle, the more backfiring. YEP, Same as per post #1!! Inspected HT wires and found a bad one. Replaced it. HAPPY CHEVY!! Experiences like this keeps me humble... |
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I'm glad you got it figured out and running right. |
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I shudder to think how long I would have driven with that valve had I found the bad HT wire first...
So yes, I'm not complaining but it was most disappointing after all that effort and money to have the same symptoms. |
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Guessing plug wire. Don is from another continent.
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Someone educate me on how to check a spark plug wire to see if it's failing
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1) Running the engine in a dark environment and checking around the engine bay for blue-ish flashes - indication of spark escaping from the wires and jumping to "ground". NOTE: This may only happen at heavier engine loads - as was happening in my case!! Blipping the throttle rather deep may cause brief heavy load periods; 2) Pulling a spark wire off the spark plug and nothing changes NOTE: This could also result from plug or dissy issues; 3) Measure it with a multimeter. For most modern cables you should get a reading in the region of 8000 - 12000 Ohm (or thereabouts) 4) Visual inspection of the cables: This is what I found on my engine: |
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Different plug wire types have different ohm readings. Best bet is to compare 2 similar sized wires of the set and the ohms should be similar. When you look at aftermarket plug wire they rate it in ohms per foot.
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Pulled out the multimeter and checked resistance in the wires looking for 12K ohms per foot and found #1 wire ranged from 8 to 24K ohms depending on how I held it. Swapped it out and haven't had a miss since. Bottom line: VERIFY. |
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