The Old Yeller Resurrection Project
 

**NOTE** I realize there are several "Old Yellers" on this board. I asked if we could change her name, but after 47 years she adamantly refused.

Hi all, thought I would introduce my new 1970 C-10 LWB project.

Well, not exactly new....

A little history: My grandpa bought this truck when I was just a little kid, and I have many memories tagging along with him in the passenger seat. Later, my Dad took ownership, where we pulled our family fifth-wheel on many camping trips. When I got my license it was handed down to me. I loved driving it throughout high school, but had to find something more economical once college started. Since then it's been in my parent's backyard in Northern CA, waiting for another stab at glory. Well, that time has finally come...
http://i.imgur.com/flfsW9al.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Z8tpNUOl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/ZDkak6Zl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/UvN43Gnl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/iYcgWKhl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/FBcC1aVl.jpg?1

It's making the great voyage this week from Northern CA down here to San Diego. I think she will enjoy the warmer weather.

The "To-Do" List (in no particular order):

1) Shortbed conversion via Brothers template (needs new sides anyways, as you can see)
2) Engine tune-up (that is, if it starts after 12 years).
3) Interior
4) Paint

I'm really excited and looking forward to sharing this adventure with everyone!

Re: The Old Yeller Resurrection Project
 

Im in to see another Old Yeller .

Re: The Old Yeller Resurrection Project
 

Welcome to San Diego!
https://i.imgur.com/6nIvzmcl.jpg

Re: The Old Yeller Resurrection Project
 

It's a 350, she'll start after sitting that long! My 72 drove home after 11 years in a Virginia cow barn. Beautiful truck, I'm looking forward to keeping up with this build

Re: The Old Yeller Resurrection Project
 

Let's hope so!

For the record, here's what I did in preparation:
1) changed the oil/filter
2) pulled the plugs, shot 1/2 oz of Marvels Mystery Oil into each cylinder.
3) pulled the valve covers, spread some more MMO over the valve train.
4) siphoned out the old gas, added 5 gallons of fresh fuel.
5) hit the carb with some carb cleaner (didn't pull it apart though)
6) installed inline fuel filter upstream from carb.

Its had a day or so to marinate, so today I'll hookup the battery turn it over. If no problems, maybe throw the plugs back in and see if she'll fire.

Re: The Old Yeller Resurrection Project
 

Sounds like you got it. I'd give her whirl and see what she does!

Re: The Old Yeller Resurrection Project
 

Good luck on the rebuild, neighbor! :)

Re: The Old Yeller Resurrection Project
 

Howdy neighbor, small world! I see you have some experience with Edelbrock carbs, and advice for mine? Amazon has a highly rated rebuild kit, but part of me wants to just try it out and see if it'll fly after sitting for so long.

Re: The Old Yeller Resurrection Project
 

I am no specialist as far as carbs go! I rebuilt mine with limited results. I swapped it out for a Holley 670 Street Avenger. I'd be happy to try to help if you like.

Re: The Old Yeller Resurrection Project
 

Went through the carb last night, pretty gummy inside. All the nooks and crannies made it tough to clean so I focused on the internals.
https://i.imgur.com/MCfV5dKl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/OwJ0QhYl.jpg

Am I correct that the 1406 is the 600 cfm version? If this carb gives me problems, maybe I'm better off getting a Holley Avenger instead of a rebuild kit.

Re: The Old Yeller Resurrection Project
 

Of the E-carb and Avenger carbs, neither is better than other, wroking with what you have will be cheaper, and hopefully work out.The 1406 is the 600 cfm E carb that EVERY autozone and HO'Reilly's carries on hand, the box on display in these stores has a 1406 in it!!!
Auto tranny fluid is good to put in cylinders also. If it was mine, I'd try to rotate the engine by hand, either via that harmonic balance bolt or somehow turning the flywheel, first. Doing this BEFORE you reinstall the plugs, to be safe.

I hope it works out well!!! 71's and 72's are awesome, no need to convert to disc brakes, it's already done!!! Ford didn't get it right until 75...LOL

Carry ON!!!

Re: The Old Yeller Resurrection Project
 

Yes, it looks like a 1406. I think it should be stamped on the side of the mounting flange as to what the part number is. And, yeah, that thing needs a good cleaning :)

Re: The Old Yeller Resurrection Project
 

Moving onto brakes, I pulled the rear drums off last night (after an hour of pulling and prying) and it was not a lovely sight; a very rusty habitat for spiders. Even one of the nails had rusted off and released the spring.
https://i.imgur.com/epKPmOal.jpg

So... decision time! do I...
1) Rebuild the existing drums (new drums, rotors, wheel cylinders, etc.)?
2) Consider rear disc brakes?


Another consideration at this point is whether I want to convert to a 5-lug rear axles. I'm finding the selection of 6-lug wheels very limited. Disc brakes in the front is a no-brainer, and I believe I can go with either 5 or 6 lug with that conversion. Any thoughts? I'm leaning towards keeping the rear drums, swapping to disc in the front and staying with 6 lugs.

Re: The Old Yeller Resurrection Project
 

Rear disc brakes help stopping, but are not really needed, my opinion, strongly!

You can buy all the parts under the drum from a parts store. If you completely rebuild your rear brakes, now with the 6 lug drums, when converting to 5 lug the only thing you would have to do to the rear brakes is replace the drum with a 5 holer, may have to adjust brake shoes slightly, but that's all.

Both my 67 and 68 are inoperational at the moment, however when both get back on the road they will both be 5 lug and front disc equipped. NO DOUBT!

I do like the 6 lug front conversion deal. However I am not that familiar with the exact parts used.
The 71 and newer disc brake pickups have larger inner, and out bearings, I consider this to be a great improvement also.
If the 6 lug conversion comes with new spindles and the larger bearings, that would be a no brainer. I have been collection 5 lug rally wheels for a while, so, I will be doing the 5 lug deal regardless...

When you buy the bearings at a parts store, you can buy the bearing and race in a set. The disc break bearing sets are the numbers 5 and 3. The brand I sold, when I sold parts way back were A3 and A5, which were the part number designations for the sets.
The sets for the drum brakes were A6 and A2, both smaller than the disc sets.

Moser had been selling a pair of stock replacement axles for $260.00. I'm not sure if that price is still good. The axles are much stronger than stock units. You would have to tell them what you are doing, as far as converting to 5 lug. It may be best to measure your old ones also. Supposedly the 70 drum brakes axles are longer than all the earlier drum brake axles, beware.

What intake is that???

Re: The Old Yeller Resurrection Project
 

Well, for my money, I'd go with disc brakes. I just like them better than dealing with drum brakes. Will the stop better? Probably not a whole lot, of course depending on rotor size and how pistons are in the calipers you elect to go with.

Re: The Old Yeller Resurrection Project
 

There's a lot more headaches when going with rear disc. The emergency brake is one, if you do go rear disc DO NOT leave the emergency brake out!!!
Then you need residual valves in the brakes line(s), cat remember why...

IF you decide on rear disc, find someone that has the emergency brake inside the rotor. Many of the O.E. folks have brake shoes inside the rotor for the emergency brake, and run a simple hydraulic caliper for the service brake, that's the only way to go, none of that ratcheting caliper crap....

Re: The Old Yeller Resurrection Project
 

I don't think that is entirely correct. Since his truck has the booster/master cylinder located on the firewall, there's no need for them. You should only need residual pressure valves if the master cylinder is located below the level of the caliper/wheel cylinders. In this case, they keep the fluid from draining out of those units.

If he does choose to go with front and rear disc, then he will need an appropriate disc/disc proportioning valve, or something similar to the adjustable Wilwood unit.

Re: The Old Yeller Resurrection Project
 

Agreed, probably going to stick with drums in the rear. Thanks for the input.

Edelbrock single plane - Torker I think?

Re: The Old Yeller Resurrection Project
 

I believe you're right, should just be a new proportioning valve. Do you have the Wilwood kit? I'm considering the front disc conversion kit from CPP, the one that Summit sells.

Re: The Old Yeller Resurrection Project
 

I have a power booster from Summit and Wilwood master cylinder on my truck, if that helps.

Re: The Old Yeller Resurrection Project
 

Rear brakes: done. This website was a great reference:http://www.pbase.com/nufsed/drumbrake
http://i.imgur.com/6o92jFQl.jpg

Re: The Old Yeller Resurrection Project
 

Moving onto the front now...
http://i.imgur.com/ZYP9dHJl.jpg
Front drums were in pretty good shape, too bad because it's getting gutted!
http://i.imgur.com/UQAJGI0l.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/kxEqWAUl.jpg
As you can see, 40 years of grime and dirt came falling out when I hit it with the impact gun.

Luckily, left side has been pretty straightforward, but man, that upper ball joint is a bear. I ground down the rivets, but can't get a good swing with a hole-punch to drive them out. Maybe a drill?

Re: The Old Yeller Resurrection Project
 

Try to center punch the rivet head in the middle of the head. Get 3-4 new good drill bits. Get the bits in various sizes, starting at about 3/16", open up hole with next bigger size, till it's big enough...Use some kind of lubricant on the drill bits when drilling.

Re: The Old Yeller Resurrection Project
 

It's hard to get a good swing at it from the top though. I'll try the drill bits and see if I can get it down all little closer before trying the center punch again. Thanks!

Re: The Old Yeller Resurrection Project
 

So I took a gamble on this Harbor Freight electric impact gun and it's been a lifesaver. A pneumatic setup would be optimal, but I must say that it has been impressive dismantling the front end of this truck!
http://i.imgur.com/b65Cd8ul.jpg

Re: The Old Yeller Resurrection Project
 

Getting everything cleaned up and ready for assembly. Thought I would try some POR-15 on the front coil springs:
http://i.imgur.com/BFmOdwll.jpg

Re: The Old Yeller Resurrection Project
 

Got the front brakes and steering put back together this weekend:
http://i.imgur.com/EjjSTu5l.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/CQ3vs2El.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/rXPy7GUl.jpg
The hardest part is the dust cap, which as you can see I still haven't gotten on right.

Re: The Old Yeller Resurrection Project
 

Ran into my first "red flag" rust spot of this project, front lower fender (passenger):
http://i.imgur.com/IDBHpb3l.jpg
Without the flash, which helps characterize the extent of the damage:
http://i.imgur.com/c28LRgSl.jpg
Inside:
http://i.imgur.com/Wo7trhxl.jpg
That little-inner pocket was FULL of rusted junk; I even found an old steak knife (a great place to hide a murder weapon I guess :confused:)
Yes, the best answer is to replace the fender, but POR-15 has been working wonderfully for me lately. I plan to paint the truck though, so a short-term fix may not be feasible?

Re: The Old Yeller Resurrection Project
 

hahahhhahaha!!!

Re: The Old Yeller Resurrection Project
 

Re: The Old Yeller Resurrection Project
 

Bed is off!
http://i.imgur.com/ifLtqMml.jpg

For all the bolts, I used the "tighten-until-they-snap" technique as described in other threads. This had about a 90% success rate; the rest of them came off via cutoff-wheel. I would recommend a breaker bar instead of an impact gun though, as you get a better feel for the torque and the subsequent bolt break.
http://i.imgur.com/cPazg2xl.jpg

Also, there was quite a wasp infestation:
http://i.imgur.com/wCxChzUl.jpg

I liked this one, they sure know how to adapt!
http://i.imgur.com/4hMPWjIl.jpg

Oh, and if anyone needs a couple bedsides and/or a steel floor, let me know:
http://i.imgur.com/uGzAolwl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/2yx0Llll.jpg

Re: The Old Yeller Resurrection Project
 

Hauled home my SWB steel floor. Thanks @Smitty for hooking me up.

http://i.imgur.com/45Cx6iYl.jpg

Then another trip up to Brother's Trucks to haul down a parts order. It was cool to see the place in-person; their staff was very helpful and friendly.

http://i.imgur.com/6crgi82l.jpg?1
http://i.imgur.com/9s1XNcsl.jpg

Re: The Old Yeller Resurrection Project
 

Frame chop is on the horizon, so I figured it would be good time to finish some pending projects before diving into that.

Installed new SS lines. Routing the pre-bent lines was fairly straightforward. Valuable tip: Save the OLD lines for reference until you've installed the new ones.

http://i.imgur.com/aktcLS5l.jpg

No connection issues with the flex line to the caliper, although it doesn't look right when I installed it...no sure how the snake is suppose to coil:

http://i.imgur.com/hYghtdyl.jpg

Finally, I cleaned and painted the rusty-ol brake booster:

http://i.imgur.com/ULOJr4Kl.jpg

Re: The Old Yeller Resurrection Project
 

Made some progress over the holiday weekend, got the frame cut down and reassembled. Aside from a few hiccups, the Brothers conversion kit was great. I created a separate thread here detailing my experience:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=753975

Ready to cut:
http://i.imgur.com/wnLgbFkl.jpg

Finished product:

http://i.imgur.com/WQb85JAl.jpg

And here's what you get in return for all that hard work:

http://i.imgur.com/J8mYcg8l.jpg

Re: The Old Yeller Resurrection Project
 

Before the bed goes back on I need to paint the rear frame and suspension. Just like the front, I took a wire wheel to everything behind the cab. It was tough, but effective. Then I used a pressure washer for the nooks and crannies (and sprayed off the cab as well).

Before:
http://i.imgur.com/cqwEljDl.jpg

After:
http://i.imgur.com/gCeYptKl.jpg

Ready for some POR-15:
http://i.imgur.com/WU4Z1ljl.jpg

Some questions:
1) Would it be worth changing the diff oil at this point?
2) Worried some water got in the wheel cylinders so I sprayed some brake cleaner in there to dry it out? See any problem with that?
3) Plan to paint the frame, trailing arms, axle and underside of bed with POR-15, any places it SHOULDN'T be applied? I'm aware of its UV sensitivity.

Re: The Old Yeller Resurrection Project
 

The por 15 co. does make a chassis saver paint that is uv tolerant.I used this on front end suspension parts before.Acts the same as por 15.I think i paid like $38 a quart.

Re: The Old Yeller Resurrection Project
 

I fit the new bedsides onto the floor yesterday. the driver side bolted up flawlessly, yet the passenger didn't line up exactly. By exactly, I mean the floor bolts are about 1/2 inch off alignment.

http://i.imgur.com/S9OZhwZl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/5V4kksJl.jpg
Visually, everything looks great, all the lines are good and the gaps are symmetrical. Maybe I just got a bad bedside with the mounting holes shifted slightly? If that's the case, I'll just drill out the bed to accommodate the bedside. Reasonable approach right?

Re: The Old Yeller Resurrection Project
 

I'm embarrassed to say that I accidentally cut the fuel return line while chopping the frame. Therefore, I had to craft a new one out of stock 5/16 steel line. Not bad eh?
http://i.imgur.com/052MjzEl.jpg

Re: The Old Yeller Resurrection Project
 

I wanted to add some info here for myself and anyone who purchases the complete steel bed bolt kit from Brothers (or from anywhere else I imagine).
There are four types of bolts in the kit, and determining their placement can be confusing.

The long bolts obviously attach the bed to the frame.

The hex bolts are for the inside wheel wells

The Phillips head bolts are for the tailgate

The 9/16 bolts are for bolting up the front panel

The rest of the carriage bolts are for the bed floor and external wheel tubs

Hopes this helps someone in the future. I’m trying to decide how I want to paint the inside of the bed without painting the nice shiny new bolts.

Re: The Old Yeller Resurrection Project
 

Slowly making progress on some little tasks around the truck:

1) Installed a new battery tray (old one was lost to the typical rust in that area. The radiator support had a bit as well, but I'm not going to worry about it for now)

2) New heater core housings (thanks Smitty) since the old one split apart when I pulled it away from the firewall

http://i.imgur.com/dd1lSfql.jpg

3) New radiator support bushings (as you can see, the old ones were pretty shot):

http://i.imgur.com/GkOwqaJl.jpg

4) New driveshaft. Drilling/grinding out the rivets of the carrier bearing bracket was a real pain in the butt!

http://i.imgur.com/7h1f7jnl.jpg

5) Installed the old tailgate back on, with a new set of trunnions:

http://i.imgur.com/da16Eipl.jpg

Next up is the carb and intake. I gave up on the Edelbrock carb and found a deal on a Performer RPM Air-gap intake/Demon carb combo. Stay tuned.