paint question
 

Don't judge...on a budget and have some questions.
I have a lwb 70 gmc...orange body with white cab. Paint is original and other than oxidized and minimal surface rust, in decent shape. When I get ready to paint, will the old have to be stripped prior to primer/paint being applied? I understand it was a different type of paint than what is used today, but will the new stick? Not looking for show quality.
Also, I will replace one of the fenders with aftermarket. They come with black primer applied. Will the orange top coat have a different hue with a black epoxy as opposed to a gray epoxy?

Re: paint question
 

Tightly adhered paint does not need to be removed before painting.
If you have a clean and abraided surface, paint will stick.
But if you have rust bubbles or other area of delamination, then you need to get to bare, clean metal.

Yes, the black primer may make the new orange paint a different hue if your paint is not a good quality and covers well. Chances are, the truck was painted from factory with a black primer so may not have to worry about it.

That's the short answer. More money would allow sand blasting and full frame off job, but I understand that you want to just freshen it up, without spending a lot of money.

Post some pictures... we all like pictures to look at.

Re: paint question
 

Thanks for the response. This will be a new venture and as said Im not looking for show quality. I have tried to polish the existing oxidized paint by hand but no luck. We will see how it goes.

Re: paint question
 

You should not have to strip unless you have some of the following paint conditions, Cracking .hazing crazing frying. In general anything that will be detected by just rubbing you hand over the surface, if it is rough, and sanding doesn't take care of that condition you may have to strip. If the paint doesn't have any seen defects other than being old, you can just sand and prime and seal and paint. I would suggest hi build primer[I use MP282] then seal[ I don't normally advise that but] I normally either have a late model I'm working on or the panels have been stripped
Most of my older panels are stripped cause of multiple paint jobs[wanted to clear that up]

Re: paint question
 

You could get away with not striping the factory lacquer paint depending what paint you are using. Acrylic enamel might work , but urethane might not. Many paints have bad chemical reactions with each other. I would at least use a primer sealer before paint, it will give a solid single color base and separate the paints. Also paint will look different anywhere it has a second color under it.

Re: paint question
 

The simple answer here is not to repaint. Save your money and polish out the original paint. Even thin factory paint is more attractive in most cases than a cheap re-do.
If the body is straight and paint is only oxidized, then by all means it should clean up well. Light surface rust can also be addressed with mild acids, leaving the underlying paint intact. This takes patience and practice, but is totally do-able and NOT expensive. Way, way less cost than even budget paint, AND you end up with a decent looking truck still wearing original paint, which means your truck is worth more.
So, instead or paying for paint and labor, invest in some good polishing equipment and professional compounds. The garbage sold at any of the chain stores is a waste of time and money compared to what the pros use, trust me.
Again, if your truck is straight and the paint is all there, DO NOT repaint.
If and when you replace the fender, paint it to match AFTER you've polished out the rest of the truck. Your color will change dramatically as you progress with the polishing.

Re: paint question
 

Thanks for all the responses guys.