2 piece drive shaft front section removal
So I'm cutting my frame down to a short bed this weekend using the Brothers template kit.
How does the front section of a 2 piece drive shaft with a carrier bearing come off. For those who can done it do I have to disassemble the U joint bearing by the carrier bearing? any tricks or tips appreciated. thanks, Mark |
Re: 2 piece drive shaft front section removal
The front section is what the carrier spindle is welded to. Unbolt the complete shaft all the way to the diff.
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Re: 2 piece drive shaft front section removal
Remove the entire driveshaft and send it out for shortening and balance. You probably have the carrier bearing with the bolts inline front to rear of truck, those bolts point down and thread in to the carrier bearing metal support, put your hand up there and you can feel 2 bolts, I think they are 7/16 diameter bolts with a 5/8 wrench head.
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Re: 2 piece drive shaft front section removal
I'm a little concerned that your attempting to shorten a frame but can't remove a driveshaft.... no offense but you may be in a little over your head.
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Re: 2 piece drive shaft front section removal
I think Rocky is trying to separate the front shaft from the rear. The original way is to disassemble the U-joint. I have gone in with a thin 3/4 in open end wrench & back the bolt out.
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Re: 2 piece drive shaft front section removal
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I guess this is why people buy the kit from Brothers...I wonder what the instructions say about the driveshaft. |
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Re: 2 piece drive shaft front section removal
listen... I haven't even started to remove the shaft yet just asking the question so easy on the criticism on my skill set. I was guessing I would have to remove the U-joints but again just asked in case there is a easier way. This is the first 2 piece I've worked on.
I will be sending out the front portion of the shaft to a local shop be cut and balanced. I got the info I needed. thanks randy400 thanks RRM |
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Good Luck and post pics. |
Re: 2 piece drive shaft front section removal
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Check my build thread and you can see how I handled the fuel lines. I don't describe it but there are pictures. For the brake line, I remove it from behind the front crossmember at the coupler, its one piece to almost the rear end, I shorten it and double flare it and reinstall, usually cut at the front, its real easy. For the emergency brake cable, I shorten it and use a steel cable stop on one side or the other at the rear end cable connector. Use this one...Dorman part number 03339 Can you post the instructions for that kit, I would like to read it. |
Re: 2 piece drive shaft front section removal
make sure you mark both drive shaft ends at the carrier bearing so they stay in phase when you put them back together. I had mine balanced this summer, but they did them together, not just the front one.
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Im a cabinet maker by trade so if the toughest part is cutting a straight line along a template with a saw zall I will be fine. Like many in this forum I'm a hobbiest/ backyard mechanic and thrilled to finally have a '70 c10. I already finished the engine work and it's solid truck. I restored a work truck I owned for 20 years and re painted it along with a few other projects. The '92 gmc fell prey to the peeling factory white paint problem GM had. Those were practice for this project. I hope to have her on the road by May Mark www.cbcabinets.com Posted via Mobile Device |
Re: 2 piece drive shaft front section removal
Looks like a nice truck. There was a thread a month or so ago about that kit, a fee guys said it cost too much etc. I said if it gives you the confidence to make the project happens then it's worth it. You confirmed that. Good luck with it.
BTW, your driveshaft guy will probably want the whole shaft to get it phased right |
Re: 2 piece drive shaft front section removal
The driveshaft shop will need all of the driveshaft assembled to PROPERLY balance the shaft. This will include the rear section. This is what I do all day every day. If your driveshaft shop says otherwise, slowly turn around and walk out the door with your driveshaft and find a real driveshaft shop. They will also need a tailshaft to center of carrier bearing and center of carrier bearing to center of rear ujoint measurement from YOUR truck. Unless you have adjustable suspension don't fall for the hype of the billet/poly carrier bearing that also requires a slip and stubin your rear shaft. Now would be a great time to get some spicer 5-1310 non greaseable ujoints as well.
Assuming you have a light duty carrier bearing setup.... |
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RRM |
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The short bed conversion went well. The kit is definitely pricey but makes the process pretty darn easy.
2 small things if someone here uses the kit. Leave bolts loose on backer plate so you can slide it back together easier with some wiggle room The kit relocated the rear cab mounts 12 3/8". Should have been 12" and bolt was slight angle to get in. I questioned this but drilled exactly where template showed. Worked out anyway. Ur they have thau part a bit off. RRM Posted via Mobile Device |
I got the driveshaft cut and balance and reinstalled.
12" comes out of the front section of the drive shaft. Went together well. Bought hugger orange and white today and hope to be in the booth next month. I'll post pics when she's all done. Thanks for all the great info on this forum. Awesome resource. RRM QUOTE=rockyrivermark;7863662]The short bed conversion went well. The kit is definitely pricey but makes the process pretty darn easy. 2 small things if someone here uses the kit. Leave bolts loose on backer plate so you can slide it back together easier with some wiggle room The kit relocated the rear cab mounts 12 3/8". Should have been 12" and bolt was slight angle to get in. I questioned this but drilled exactly where template showed. Worked out anyway. Ur they have thau part a bit off. RRM Posted via Mobile Device[/QUOTE] Posted via Mobile Device |
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Dam iPhone pics rotate when. Put online.
Urgh. |
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