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72kool 04-10-2020 05:02 PM

Engine Advice
 
I finally took the step and tore my truck apart in the hopes to get it built for my needs. And then it's sat for the past year haha
The end goal for my truck is to be a 4x4 with a custom bed to haul a derby car, and also need to be able to pull a double/triple car trailer down the highway without trouble. Looking at my options for engine choices and diesel has been something I would like. What would you recommend engine wise? My criteria for it if I go diesel is that I want the simplest engine for repairs ( I have worked on diesels some, I get them, but I'm gas engine mechanic mostly) and I don't want to break the bank. My first thought was a 12valve Cummins, but they are going for gold here. And I've considered a 4bt but they seem weak. Not sure if they are up to the task of pulling that weight. What would you do if you were building this truck?


I really appreciate your help and opinions

I should add, the truck is a 72 C20.

jarrodblake 04-11-2020 08:40 PM

Re: Engine Advice
 
So your starting with a c20 as the base of your build? You want to build a custom flatbed to haul a durby car on the back? You also want to make it 4x4 and be able to pull a 3 car trailer? There are several ways to do this. But you're probably not going to like them. unfortunately it's not as simple as just upgrading your truck to be capable of towing more that it was originally rated to tow legally. You need to consider your end goal to what is your max weight do you plan on towing? Most 3 car trailers have a 14,000 to 18,000 GVWR. Even if you upgrade your truck to be able to pull and STOP a full 18,000lb load, if a dot officer pulls you over and even if you have upgraded your truck to pull it, but your vin plate still says its gvw is 7200 your going to get a fine and towed. The easiest way and what most people will tell you to do is to just buy a truck that is rated to pull your goal weight. What I would personally do would be to do a frame swap from a truck that it is already rated to pull that weight, and attach the vin and data plate that states what it is rated at to the frame. The two cheapest options would be to buy a diesel school bus that runs. You would need to shorten the frame and get a 2 ton rated 4x4 front axle and run a divorced transfer case. Option two buy a F550 with a blown motor and do a cummins swap. I know its not what you were looking to hear. But that is what I would do If I could do it again. When I started my build I had pretty much the same plan as you. I have a 1970 c30 ramp truck it's rated at 14,000 I am building it tow 16,000 no problem but Unless I can get it up fitted I better have the money to be able to pay the fine and tow bill. It has a 12 valve cummins JB8 brakes with hydroboost, nv4500 I have not upgraded the rear axle yet, but I am thinking about a dana 135 axle.

But if you don't care if its legal. A p pump cummins a dana 60 in the front a dana 80 dually axle in the rear. your choice of trans and t case. Hopefully you can upgrade the front brakes on the axle. Install hydroboost. Air ride in the rear or at least heavy duty springs in the rear with helper bags. I would stretch the frame to get a longer wheelbase even with the upgrades our trucks don't weigh much and the extra wheel base will help keep the a 3 car trailer stable and you will need it to fit a durby car on the bed.

72kool 04-12-2020 01:10 AM

Re: Engine Advice
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by jarrodblake (Post 8714489)
So your starting with a c20 as the base of your build? You want to build a custom flatbed to haul a durby car on the back? You also want to make it 4x4 and be able to pull a 3 car trailer? There are several ways to do this. But you're probably not going to like them. unfortunately it's not as simple as just upgrading your truck to be capable of towing more that it was originally rated to tow legally. You need to consider your end goal to what is your max weight do you plan on towing? Most 3 car trailers have a 14,000 to 18,000 GVWR. Even if you upgrade your truck to be able to pull and STOP a full 18,000lb load, if a dot officer pulls you over and even if you have upgraded your truck to pull it, but your vin plate still says its gvw is 7200 your going to get a fine and towed. The easiest way and what most people will tell you to do is to just buy a truck that is rated to pull your goal weight. What I would personally do would be to do a frame swap from a truck that it is already rated to pull that weight, and attach the vin and data plate that states what it is rated at to the frame. The two cheapest options would be to buy a diesel school bus that runs. You would need to shorten the frame and get a 2 ton rated 4x4 front axle and run a divorced transfer case. Option two buy a F550 with a blown motor and do a cummins swap. I know its not what you were looking to hear. But that is what I would do If I could do it again. When I started my build I had pretty much the same plan as you. I have a 1970 c30 ramp truck it's rated at 14,000 I am building it tow 16,000 no problem but Unless I can get it up fitted I better have the money to be able to pay the fine and tow bill. It has a 12 valve cummins JB8 brakes with hydroboost, nv4500 I have not upgraded the rear axle yet, but I am thinking about a dana 135 axle.

But if you don't care if its legal. A p pump cummins a dana 60 in the front a dana 80 dually axle in the rear. your choice of trans and t case. Hopefully you can upgrade the front brakes on the axle. Install hydroboost. Air ride in the rear or at least heavy duty springs in the rear with helper bags. I would stretch the frame to get a longer wheelbase even with the upgrades our trucks don't weigh much and the extra wheel base will help keep the a 3 car trailer stable and you will need it to fit a durby car on the bed.

Thats exactly what I want to hear. Legal wise, our state is fairly lax. Anything that I change on it at all, would require it to be a custom title.

I have considered a body swap, I'm trying to achieve my goal the easiest all around. I have to keep budget in mind, but I'm really getting to the point of wanting to get it going so I have my truck.

I am planning on alot of Fab work and I'm ok with that. That's what I love to do and can do. I've considered adding everything to existing frame, but not sure yet if it's viable. Any opinions , especially if it's been done already, is appreciated

Dieselwrencher 04-23-2020 11:29 PM

Re: Engine Advice
 
Personally I wouldn't go buy a truck to do what you want. I'd build it. Yeah the DOT could probably fine you but I'd take that gamble. First of all you aren't doing it for commercial use so they more than likely will not bother you unless something obviously is wrong. I've pulled 40k with my truck and I would do it again. But, I did do a lot of fab work to the truck and the frame and chassis are pretty strong.

If I were you I'd start with a 157" wheel base frame. It will get you closer to your goals length wise. The 12v Cummins would be my choice as well. Just watch marketplace and CL because deals come up. I have purchased 2 complete donor trucks the last year and one was $1400, the other was a grand. So keep an eye out.


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