replacing ''A" arm bushings &balljoint pics
 

remove A arm and remove balljoint http://www.freephoto-i.net/users/ebfabman/DCP_0307.JPG
remove old bushings & shaft http://www.freephoto-i.net/users/ebfabman/DCP_0311.JPG
disassembled http://www.freephoto-i.net/users/ebfabman/DCP_0314.JPG
screw in one bushing http://www.freephoto-i.net/users/ebfabman/DCP_0321.JPG
screw shaft into bushing http://www.freephoto-i.net/users/ebfabman/DCP_0323.JPG
screw in 2nd bushing http://www.freephoto-i.net/users/ebfabman/DCP_0329.JPG
next the balljoint http://www.freephoto-i.net/users/ebfabman/DCP_0333.JPG
use the grade 8 bolts http://www.freephoto-i.net/users/ebfabman/DCP_0334.JPG
install back on truck http://www.freephoto-i.net/users/ebfabman/DCP_0345.JPG
tighten everything up & grease http://www.freephoto-i.net/users/ebfabman/DCP_0347.JPG
Some tips. Screw in the first bushing all the way into the A arm. then after greasing the shaft, screw it all the way into the bushing, then unscrew it out one turn. Then screw the other bushing into the A arm. Snug them down good. I have seen the bushings tack welded to the A arm, just be sure to tack them so they can be removed later.
There may be other ways to do this, but this is how I've done it over the years. If anyone has anything to add please feel free.....eb

That is great we need more info like that on this board. I know this will help me when I start on my suspension. Keep up the good work.
Dave

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68 C-10 Custom LWB
307 V8
Three-on-the-tree
Lexington,NC
davideowens@lexcominc.net

Very timely, I'm about to do my balljoints. Ordered moog uppers, one was missing the hardware, called parts plce which ordered a new one, same part different hardware, missing bolts. Moog has some serious quality control probs.

I wasn't planning on doing my A arm shaft, but prolly idler and pitman and lowers. Is there a test for the state of your A arm bushings?

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71 GMC 2500 Custom Camper
71 GMC Suburban 1500 Super Custom
71 Chevrolet 1500 Donor
http://www.able-bravo.com

Can we get Josh or one of the admins to move this to the "Tech Tips" or "Tech articles" section?

After 20 yrs parts experience its not moog you should see the way this stuff is handled at the Independent Whse's I watched the guys throwing parts to a guy ona ladder 4 out of 10 missed,The mfg's cant control this....
My 2 cents

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68 c20 in progress 327 TH400 tach dash Disc Brakes and soon 3.90 rear gears.. have many new parts now just need the time..... Sound Familar

eb, Thanks soooo much for posting that kind of stuff! It took extra time out of your project to do that, but newbies like me can't get enough of that sort of thing! THANK YOU!! Darren

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Darren
Washougal, Washington
darrengale67@hotmail.com
NOT the NetZero e-mail.

1972 GMC C1500 (Bone Stock)

Saving / Looking for a 72 3/4 Ton 4X4 Automatic with little or no rust.

You are certainly welcome Darren, but really I just like playing with my camera....LOL

Thanks for all of your time to explain with pictures. I am in the process of doing just that. Where did you order the bushings?

Great work.....

you don't want to do the final torque on the shafts untill you get the truck back on the ground. I put jack stands under the bottom a-arms and load the suspention. Then you do the final torqueing on the shafts

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71 basic C-10 350. The only option is the rust.No nothing on it, but thats all about to change. <A HREF="http://www.geocities.com/stevemau/slam33page.html?1004806705410

" TARGET=_blank>http://www.geocities.com/stevemau/slam33page.html?1004806705410

</A>

all pretty well covered ebfabman,the only thing that I can add.....have plenty of beer on hand! .......69 longhorn

Has anyone else noticed that the bolts in they're ball joint kit were metric. Damn, I got metric bolts on my truck!

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"KEEP IT DOWN!"
70 Jimmy 454 2wd
56 GMC Big Window