Screw seized on door panel
 

I have 2 screws left on the driver’s side door panel that are seized. I have been regularly hitting it with PB blaster which has worked wonders on everything else so far, but still those 2 won’t budge. I’m guessing since it’s a vertical surface the oil isn’t soaking down into the threads as good as it could be. The heads are starting to strip so that’s a second problem. I did get one out yesterday with a screw extractor and an impact gun at low speed, but that was touch and go. So now I’m left with these 2 and I have so much work to do on the doors.

Am I completely missing a trick of the trade here? What can I do to get these stupid bolts out?!

PS: Go easy on me, I’m a girl. ;)

Re: Screw seized on door panel
 

I had a similar problem on my doors. I would do exactly what you said, except I was also putting a screwdriver into the heads and tapping them with a hammer to just help the PB Blaster get distributed. I got all but one off and ended up having to drill it out and use an easy-out to get it out. My heads were also fairly stripped from presumable the last owner trying to do the same thing.

Re: Screw seized on door panel
 

If worse comes to worse. Drill off the heads, leaving the shafts. Add a little heat, tap with a small hammer. Attach a vise grip to the shaft and try to back it out. After the heads are drilled off you should be able to remove the panel and have better access to the shanks. Good luck. Make sure to run a tap through all the receptacles prior to assembly to remove existing rust.

Re: Screw seized on door panel
 

like mentioned above, I find it easiest to drill the heads off, remove the panel, and deal with the screw shanks that are left..

grooming the heads of the screws with the panel on is asking for trouble, very difficult to work there without damaging panel..

sharp drill bits, strong low speed drill, patience.. use controlled pressure to get big chips but don't want to run off into the vinyl..

once the panel is removed, soak screws with copious amounts of pb blaster, kroil, wd, whatever penetrant you prefer..

use vice grips with a good sharp jaws and square edges that will allow it to bite every bit of what's protruding..

don't want to mangle what's left into a nub, get a solid bite and work it loose..

sometimes the corrosion is heavier on the tail of the threads (part inside the door) so it may thread in or tighten easier than out..

not far, just enough to break it loose and then work it back and forth, a little more loosen each time until it runs all the way out..

chase the threads with a tap and lube.. I believe mine were all 1/4"-20 but you'll need to verify that on your doors..

by the way, I've had to do this for several screws out of each of the four sets of panels I have removed so don't feel bad..

good luck!

Re: Screw seized on door panel
 

Agree with above. As drilling goes, in case you're not used to it, apply oil to the bit and/or screw. Use the smallest bit you can get away with without busting one, you shouldn't need more than an 1/8" for a 1/4" screw. Smaller if the problem is the stainless steel above the panel, those screws are #10.

Bits generally bust because of not shooting straight right. Personally I'd use a good bit, IRWIN has never let me down, drilled 3/8" grade 8 bolt for me too, through the thread top to bottom (yikes).

Spraying with water as you drill helps too, bits like to be cool. Defeats the purpose to have a bit spin going nowhere.

Re: Screw seized on door panel
 

If you can find them, use left hand drill bits. If the bit catches, it just might back the screw out.

https://www.harborfreight.com/screw-...SABEgIJGvD_BwE

Re: Screw seized on door panel
 

I had 1 or 2 of the nuts on the door come off when I was used some force getting the bolt out. I replaced the nuts with 1/4-20 cage nuts from the hardware store. So if you get forceful with it and that happens, not to worry.

A nut that survived
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1500507443

A cage nut
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1500507443

Re: Screw seized on door panel
 

As you run the drill thru the screw, stop and see if the heat from drilling has loosened the screw up.

Re: Screw seized on door panel
 

I had to do this recently. Drilled the head off and used a vice grip to remove the treaded part.

Re: Screw seized on door panel
 

Put valve grinding compound on the screwdriver tip and on end of screw it will either break loose or will break the head off the screw or the screwdriver

Re: Screw seized on door panel
 

yes not many know the trick of valve grinding compound ,, yes it works very well

Re: Screw seized on door panel
 

I think I've also heard them called clip nuts. Anyway my local Ace Hardware used to carry them but they moved to smaller location and downsized thier inventory. I wanted to use one on a new Battery Tray when the old weld nut inside the radiator wall came loose from acid corrosion. Couldn't get 'em, so I put the old nut back on holding it in place with a needle-nosed Vice-Grips. [This is not germaine to the door panel discussion]
The OEM door panel screws have a smaller head than the 1/4-20 threaded shaft. I have had to drill off the rusted screw head and then replaced the clip nut [or Cage Nut].

Re: Screw seized on door panel
 

I ended up mangling the nuts and messed the hole up as well, a 1/4” rivnut went in the hole perfectly with the added benefit of being stainless so it won’t seize up again.

Re: Screw seized on door panel
 

When I replaced mine I used SS screws with a dap of anti seeze.

Re: Screw seized on door panel
 

So here's my .02 on drilling out any bad bolt. If the head twists off and it's a bit above the surface take a grinder and grind the bolt so it's completely flat. If its a small bolt like a 10-24 or 1/4-20 get small diameter center punch and sharpen it to a needle point. Then the best you can center punch the bolt right in the center of the bolt. If your first try is a bit off center just do it again make the punch mark heavier so the drill bit doesn't walk. Start with a really sharp 9/32" bit and drill all the way thru the bolt. Then drill the bolt with a 5/32" bit and the final size drill bit is 13/64". If you center punched correctly the 13/64 drill bit (or #7 drill bit) is the tap size for a 1/4-20 bolt. Re-tap the hole. Even if its a bit off you should be OK.
Good luck.

My suggestion here is if you need to drill in steel, locate a split tip cobalt bit of the correct size. Generally speaking, they cut better than anything else you’re going to find. They’re a little more money, but they ~cut~. In steel, use heavy pressure, low speed.
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