Windshield Butyl Sealant
 

Well got most of it done, just a temp repair. One thing I will say is I am not an Octopus. I am looking for ideas on how to run the sealant in and around the windshield gasket.

I have tried positioning myself with the tube inserted under the gasket yet it binds and I can see the tip wants to bend and break off the tube. The brand new Precision Gasket wants to grab anything I try to utilize as a slide. I am leary of using any type of lube to help facilitate the process.

What I would like to achieve is a continuous bead that runs in there deep all the way across the upper part of the windshield and in around the bottom. I do have the other product from CL Lawrence which is a bit thinner and you have to use a special tool to pump it into the groove, Special Thanks to Grumpy!

Anyone have a good idea on how to one man this?

Re: Windshield Butyl Sealant
 

You dont want to use Urethane, you should use a 3M 08509, it will seal your window and NOT GLUE it to the cab.

The factory applied the sealant to the rubber seal just prior to the installation.

for repairs and sealing with Urethane use this 3M precut with the can and Pump.

https://www.amazon.com/CRL-Windshiel.../dp/B000K40PGA

https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/s...hp?tid/240197/

Re: Windshield Butyl Sealant
 

Well thank you for the quick response. I do not have the 3m stuff. I will be utilizing a flow grade butyl for a more flexible seal.

These products:

http://www.crlaurence.com/crlapps/sh...ID=19964&pom=0

http://www.crlaurence.com/crlapps/sh...ID=19965&pom=0

So far I have taken the plastic windshield tool and modified it. Also mimicked the same tool with some abs plastic.

Pics to come later today.

Re: Windshield Butyl Sealant
 

The problem with the caulking gun style is how to inject it under the rubber at the top and bottom of the seal, that's why we use the pump can.

https://a4.pbase.com/o2/24/749824/1/...EOCHc.CRL3.jpg

Re: Windshield Butyl Sealant
 

OK, this is interesting. I've been thinking about the leak around my windshield and was contemplating removing the windshield so I can put RTV on the metal all around the opening, and then put the windshield back in. So it sounds like that would be incorrect, and since my windshield is in all I have to do is add this goo right now.

You see how toolboxchev has that stainless trim in the gasket? I have that too. For this procedure should that be removed?

Does that pump screw right onto the can?

What is the cleanup like for the pump?

Re: Windshield Butyl Sealant
 

Don't remove your trim, never use Silicone to seal a window.
The clean up is easy if you do it right away, follow the instructions.
The Pump screws right on to the top of the can, real easy to use and you can turn the tip to get at odd angles.
I just installed the Presision gaskets as well, fit real good.
https://cache.nebula.phx3.secureserv...f-82a390b01c0a

Re: Windshield Butyl Sealant
 

NO, NO, NO!!! Don't ever use RTV or any silicone compound on a windshield. Silicone is used for shower glass - that's because shower glass doesn't have to deal with millions of bumps and twists as it goes down the road. Silicone will actually prevent you from getting a permanent seal on your windshield. The only thing you should use on your truck is flow-grade butyl sealant. It's available in caulk tubes, but as Astroballs said, it's a whole lot easier if you buy the pump.

Don't worry about cleaning the pump except for anything on the exterior. The butyl will last for years without hardening. Don't remove your trim, either, or you'll be hating life. You'll have to pull the windshield to get it back in.

Re: Windshield Butyl Sealant
 

Yes, I have the pump can. Here is a pic of the tools I modified to help get the thicker tube gun material in there. I am thinking the stuff in the tube is thicker right?

The black thing is just a piece of ABS plastic cut and heated with a hot air gun then bent. It slides easier in the channel.

Got a buddy coming over in the morning to help out.

Re: Windshield Butyl Sealant
 

Ok, I did the unthinkable years ago. Had to fix it. Will post the link update. So I believe Grumpy Old Man advised me to use the non-curing butyl 6-8 inches in the top, around the corner, and down the pillars.

My truck had a huge gap inside the pillars, years ago I put some silicone in there, what a mistake, had ripped it out a couple of years ago. That was before I found this site so never you mind. I filled the gap with the non-curing butyl. FUN! Freaking FUN AND MORE PAPER TOWELS. We did have to use the Blue Windshield Tool in the above post to get the gasket opened up.

Ok broke out the 3M masking tape after cleanup. Yes, the stuff in the can went all the way around. It will bond to the metal and rubber. I still made a mess but the tape is a big help. I had that stuff oozing out everywhere. If I had been more careful and frugal that would not have been an issue. Had I done this before I would have taped the entire opening just inside the rubber gasket before putting in the windshield. Nobody told me everything you run into when doing this just as an install without all the extra problems I encountered.

I AM SICK OF A LEAKING CAB.

Cleanup on the pump took longer than squirting that sealant in. Tried Acetone. Eh, next Laquer Thinner, sure it squirted clean but I was not satisfied.

Broke out the Xylene, that killed it. The nice thing about the pump, it comes apart rather quickly with little to no mishap. A couple of springs and a ball check valve in there so don't lose them.

See this thread for a reference for the windshield install, Sealing the daily drivers is not something for the everyday Window Guy for sure. Last post:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=484773&page=6