My Ride: '70 Chev CST/20
 

Alright, here is my second - most recent ride. See also this thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php3?t=118134

I'm trying to do the same thing with this thread, mostly to show pictures of what I am talking about and also pick some brains of the very knowledgable people on this board.

Here are the pics of this truck. It seems the CST/20 is not very common?

Alright, as you can see there is rust and some dents, but nothing too terrible:

Here are some of the things the truck came with that are a little unique. It has two saddles tanks on each side of the bed, sure looks to have come stock but I could be wrong. Also, it came missing it's tailgate but inplace had a rail/gear system to hoist a camper onto the bed.

Here is the drivetrain. This is the engine I am removing and either going to rebuild or sell. If you look close you can see a rod poking through the oilpan. Also, can anyone identify what rear end this is?

Last pics, just for fun. Here are the two "projects" and my daily driver. =)

2 projects eh, that Bug doesn't look like much of a project :D your yellow 66 pickup looks like it would make a more worthy dialy driver :D That truck is sweeeeeeeeeeeeet

rearend
 

rearend looks to be dana 60 model. If truck was originally 396BB truck might be 3.54 ratio, if 350 SB it often was 4.10 gears.

Nice CST/20! Looks like a great start, and your Yellow truck is Saweet!

Two good looking projects!

Ok, an interesting thing happened. I pulled this dead engine out along with the tranny, and it seems I have a small block 400 not a 350. My fender emblem indicates that it should have come with a 350, so the previous owner must have swapped it out.

Any advice on whether I should look into rebuilding this? I have my eyes on the GM 290HP 350 crate engine, I'd love to be able to sell this engine or at least parts of it to get something with a warranty.

try and find some one that wants to build a 383, then you have a buyer for your crank :)

I would take it apart and see if its any good first. If the block is good, get a aftermarket crank and some 5.7'' rods and pistons to go with them and build a 400. if it broke a rod, the crank is probably junk, but you never know.

very nice trucks. the saddle tanks on your c-20 are just like mine I REMOVED mine because they mounted them through the box wood. wood rotted and were going to fall off

neonlarry, one of the rods have broken but I don't know how to tell if the crank is good or not. I'll probably just try to find someone local that wants to rebuilt this and I'll sell it real cheap.

New question though, I'm taking some disc brakes from a junkyard '71. Does anyone know if I will need new A-arms to put the new spindles on this '70, or would it bolt right up? Sure wish the search feature was working so people like me aren't asking the same questions over and over...

you dont need the newer style a arms. the stock will work. just get all pieces you can and remember what year you are swaping too cause you will need to maintain that year through out

WHEELS LOOK KINDA DIFFERENT, WTF ARE THEY :confused:

I have no idea, wish I did so I could get matching tires. =) I'll probably sell them for cheap and just get 4 Outlaw rims if I can find a good price.

OK, next update: I have taken the TH350 to a tranny shop and it needs to be rebuilt. But, instead of spending $450 on a rebuild I'd much rather spend that towards a 700r4 (plan on using alot on highways). I'll need a core if I get a 700r4. So, anyone that wants a TH350 to rebuild or use as a core, or trade straight across for a 700r4 core let me know.

Thanks guys!

Look's like it has the rust in all the common spot's ... My truck was that color year's ago not a bad color if you buff it out ....

O I C, JUST THE FRONT 2 ARE ALUMINUM. ;)

are the front 2 newer style chevy wheels? kinda look like it with out the center cap

Looks a lot like my 70 Chev C/20, different color though. Been looking for a pair of those camper mirrors and arms in the stainless or chrome if someone has a set or maybe your not going to use ones from this truck :bowtie: . My cab is just coming out of the body shop and I just got the 350 V-8 from the machine shop. Hope to start on front end sheetmetal and then the box. I added power steering and power disc brakes from a 1972 C/20.

yeah those wheels are off of a newer truck. the pic is of a 2001 3/4 ton 2wd 2500HD

Late model HD Chevy truck wheels. Dude at my fire station has a 2002 1500HD 4 wheel drive with those wheels.

Thanks for the rim identification guys, that's awesome! I've looked around a bit online to try to find a name, part number, or anything so I can order two rear wheels. Any ideas about where to order these?

70C/20Chev, I sent you a private message about these camper mirrors. I'm not gonna use them.

Saw about 40 pair on Ebay...

What are they called though, so I can search ebay for them?

Also, do you need a specific porportioning valve for disc brakes? I'm swapping front ends with a '71 and it has discs, master cylinder, and valves but no booster. So, I found a booster in a junk yard today that can bolt up to my master cylinder, but i'm not sure if the porp. valves will work with them both.

Nice truck, looks to be pretty clean. I always have liked the color green too.

Same prop valve for power and manual, as long as it's disc brake truck, it will work.

I agree with tx firefighter on brake proportioning valve, as long as its a disc brake proportioning valve you should be ok. After checking over 30 different parts catologs it doesnt seem to matter if 1/2 or 3/4 ton and 1971 and 1972 are the same. My used disc brake set up had the proportioning valve with it (3/4 ton). My 1/2 ton parts doner truck appears to have the same proportioning valve on it.

Does anyone know if they make rebuild kits for master cylinders? Here's a shot of my original, and then the new cylinder that came from the '71 donor with discs. It's not a master cylinder I've ever seen before, with a weird ruber gasket inside. Wondering if I can rebuild this or have to use it as a core to order a new one?

And last question for today, here is a powerbooster that was from a 71 or 72 blazer. I haven't seen rebuild kits for these either, wondering if there is a way to know if it will hold pressure or not. I can see what I think has been a wasp nest inside the vacuum port, do you think it's safe to flush this out somehow and still use it?

Thanks everyone!

i think i read that master cylinders are not worth rebuilding, cause they are only 25 bucks. cant help with the booster i have the same question.

[Sure wish the search feature was working so people like me aren't asking the same questions over and over...[/QUOTE]

I think he is gettin close. I just searched the FAQ's!!!

2nd the ebay thing. I bought a brand new set of 4 with tires for $400.

Should have read all of these and posted once. sorry. Search ebay motors for "chevy 8 lug" that should narrow it down for you. Watch this at least a week before you buy. Sometimes after a rush of buyers the sales go flat. That's how I got mine so cheap.

master cylinder
 

Master looks identical to my original one in 72 C20 with power discs. New one I bought for $18 looks identical (had $8 core also which I got back). Almost certain that is right master for c20/k20 with front Power discs. Your booster looks rough. I know there are services that rebuild these. Last one I read up on required parts to be dipped/stripped of finish and grime before sending in to rebuild. I am still reseaching the competition on rebuilt boosters. I am looking to refinish one I have and replace exterior boots to make look new, no luck on parts source yet. I am just finishing up replacing master and booster with restored one I bought for another truck a year ago. It was on shelf and saved me time finding parts for used one. I will try to restore myslef and use on 2nd truck. I am going to start a post on problems during install looking for bleeding help.

Good luck. Power brakes are way better than manual ones!!

Where are you guys buying Mast. Cylinders for so cheap??

Kragen's here.

Master Cyl was 18.00

Booster was 72.00

Same ones you have pictures of.

Go 71 3/4 ton when you buy them...