Starter differences for manual and auto?
 

I have been working on my Grandpas '73 C20. One of the things on my list was to replace the starter. The bendex would not always come out and push the starter gear out so you would have to bump it a few times for it to grab. I picked up a replacement at our local Orilies auto parts store. The replacement appeared identical to the old one so I took it home and got it installed. Upon hitting the key, a god-awful gear/ cranking noise. I have played around with shims and even tried another 'new' replacement starter. Same deal. I am wondering if anyone knows if the starters are different for manual and automatic? The combo for our truck is 350/ SM-465 4 speed/ 2wd. Thanks

Re: Starter differences for manual and auto?
 

Does it have the right tooth count to match the flywheel?

Re: Starter differences for manual and auto?
 

Did your original starter have a staggered or straight mout bolt patter?

They were different between the manual trans and the automatics, but I believe around 73 is when they became the same style. The old manual tranny starters mounted to the bellhousing, not the block.

Re: Starter differences for manual and auto?
 

The original starter had a staggered bolt pattern. It also had an aluminum nose cone. I have seen some restoration parts places offer a cast iron nose cone for manual transmissions, wonder what the difference could be?

Re: Starter differences for manual and auto?
 

I have a truck (SM465) and a car (Muncie) with the iron nose starters with short bolts that go into the bellhousing, but I've seen plenty of aluminum nose starters that use long bolts that go vertically into the block. I'm sure the bellhousing and starter style on the car weren't what was used on the car was built. The same could be true for the truck.
After typing all that crap I wonder if it made anything more clear...