Springs and spring cups
 

Putting new rear coil springs, cups and trailing arms in the truck. I know the ends of the springs are supposed to line up with the indents in the cups. That was fine in the top, but when I tighten down the lower the cup spins.The cups seem to fit the springs ok, but not if I line up the indents to the ends, it is off by small amount. Should I wait until the truck is on ground to tighten ? Is it possible that I have wrong srpings and or cups,or the cups/springs switched top to bottom ? Any input appreciated.
Thanks

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1968 SWB Stepside, pwr disc brake and tilt pwr steering, 5 spd tranny, HEI,Accel coil,K&N filter,3 bolt seatbelts, original i6 and wood bed, seat from an 89 Chevy, front and rear sway bars, moved gas tank to under the bed, headman hedders, new chrome bumpers,one wire alternator,WORK IN PROGRESS,Daily driver, 20 MPG, Freeland MI

I echo your question. Sorry if I can't shed
any light on your question. When I installed my 3" drop coils I noticed the same
symptoms you described. When I installed the springs the frame was on jackstands and I raised the rear axle, but not to the point where the frame would lift from the stands.
So if the rear suspension had to be fully
weighted for correct install, guess I didn't
make it. Anyone?

I just installed mine, with nothing on the frame. I didn't have any problems with them spinning. Did you say that they were new? I would call the place you bought them from and ask. Is the nut part of the cup or is it separate? Mine is separate.

Some aftermarket coil springs are smaller diameter rod and the cups won't tighten enough to hold them correctly. What company did you get them from?

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www.mothertruckers.net

Bought the springs from a local auto parts supply place,cups from vintage classic trucks. Top have separate nut,bottom nut (where the problem is) is part of cup.
ID69, any noise problems,ride problems ? What happens if I can't get them to line up ? Don't feel like taking it all apart now, but don't want it unsafe either.

Oh, I forgot to mention,the cups will tighten on the spring,they slip about 1/2-3/4 turn and then stop, and tighten up. That is why I thought putting some weight on the axle might create some pressure ,to hold the cup in place while I tighen it.

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1968 SWB Stepside, pwr disc brake and tilt pwr steering, 5 spd tranny, HEI,Accel coil,K&N filter,3 bolt seatbelts, original i6 and wood bed, seat from an 89 Chevy, front and rear sway bars, moved gas tank to under the bed, headman hedders, new chrome bumpers,one wire alternator,WORK IN PROGRESS,Daily driver, 20 MPG, Freeland MI

Think I got it, just clamped spring,cup and trailer arm, tightened down just fine

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1968 SWB Stepside, pwr disc brake and tilt pwr steering, 5 spd tranny, HEI,Accel coil,K&N filter,3 bolt seatbelts, original i6 and wood bed, seat from an 89 Chevy, front and rear sway bars, moved gas tank to under the bed, headman hedders, new chrome bumpers,one wire alternator,WORK IN PROGRESS,Daily driver, 20 MPG, Freeland MI

Good to hear you have the problem resolved.
Haven't got alot of drive time in myself. But
no problems experienced. Did you have a chance to compare drop at each side. I have about 1/2" difference in height, but figured
coils would settle in with time. Had no problem with cups retaining bottom of springs, just noticed they weren't exactly lined up with notches.

No side to side difference ID, hope it levels out for you

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1968 SWB Stepside, pwr disc brake and tilt pwr steering, 5 spd tranny, HEI,Accel coil,K&N filter,3 bolt seatbelts, original i6 and wood bed, seat from an 89 Chevy, front and rear sway bars, moved gas tank to under the bed, headman hedders, new chrome bumpers,one wire alternator,WORK IN PROGRESS,Daily driver, 20 MPG, Freeland MI