Proportioning Valve Keeps Tripping?
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1967 C10 - Disc conversion (power 8" booster) - master cylinder is 1" bore, and the proportioning valve was advertised when bought in the kit as a disc/drum setup.
I am having an issue with my proportioning valve. When I go to bleed the brakes, while using the proportioning valve tool to center the shuttle valve, everything bleeds fine, no leaks and good strong flow. No air coming out anymore, I did plenty of extra pedal strokes to ensure this and had no air that I could see come out. But when I put the brake switch back in, bleeders all closed, and press the pedal down half way, the red brake light illuminates. I have pulled the switch and confirmed the shuttle valve closes the rear brakes. Recenter, does it again. I confirmed the rear brake shoes are at their proper adjustment with a brake drum/shoe caliper tool to get the measurement even. Even after adjusting and all this bleeding, it seems like its either seeing a fault at the rear. So my question essentially is how do I move forward from here? From the factory, the front brakes are fed by 1 line off the front of this proportioning valve down to a T fitting split to both sides, and obviously rear is one that goes to a T on the differential. Someone did say my front feed being at the top fitting (pictured) is an issue, I don't see this as an issue being this should be able to balance it, am I incorrect? Attachment 2343742 Attachment 2343743 |
Re: Proportioning Valve Keeps Tripping?
The position of front line is not the problem.
Your PV is sensing a change which triggers the switch. Whatever direction it moves, that part (front or back) has a leak you need to find ...or the PV is bad which is rare but given source of replacement parts used in these kits, way more possible now. Power brake disc typically use a 1 1/8" bore MC but that would not affect what PV is doing. larger bore just means less pedal stroke as the booster assist does not need the stroke a manual setup needs. |
Re: Proportioning Valve Keeps Tripping?
In my opinion the front brake line coming off the combination valve upwards shouldn't matter because it was designed that way for two front brake lines. However, typically when using a single line with a tee, others (factory included?) used the bottom port and plugged the top. I don't think it will matter.
Someone else, on this forum, stated that their switch was too sensitive. Are you seeing a lot of movement of the shuttle valve? Having removed the switch, how much movement can it have before the light turns on? How do you know that the proportioning valve isn't stuck in the open position? It's function is too reduce the pressure to the rear, right? What would the shuttle valve do, if the proportioning valve wasn't doing its function? I think it would slide rearward a bit. You could replace just the proportioning valve, and see if it makes a difference. Then you could disassemble the first proportioning valve to see if there was a problem. |
Re: Proportioning Valve Keeps Tripping?
>>proper adjustment with a brake drum/shoe caliper tool <<
If you are talking about a "resetting tool" , the shoes are probably still too far away from the drums. You should adjust until the shoes drag and then step on the brake pedal to center the shoes. You have to readjust tighter, press on the brake and check for drag again. The finish adjustment should allow you to hear some drag, but not necessarily feel any resistance when you turn the drum. |
Re: Proportioning Valve Keeps Tripping?
Which mater cylinder do you have on there? Lift the cap off and take a pic.
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My almost-new switch all of a sudden got very sensitive, even when not applying the brakes. I pulled it out and checked it on the bench with an ohmmeter. Turns out that just a very small bit of upward movement causes the switch to close. I mean we're talking .050" if that much.
Ended up using the later model switch that came with my aftermarket combo valve. Unfortunately, the wire connector is different, but that's no big deal -- just another PITA to deal with. This is probably not your problem, since your switch closes only when you step on the brakes. But I just wanted to get this info out there -- the light flickering or being on all the time could indicate a bad ChiCom switch. On another note, that's a dual 8" booster, right? |
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Maybe try adjusting the backs to be stupidly tight and see if that makes a difference.
IF you still have the differential pressure valve moving, then there's air or fluid loss somewhere causing a....pressure difference |
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Old school reputable mech. says old CPV vales rarely fail.
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Re: Proportioning Valve Keeps Tripping?
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Bought a pack of these off the River :shrug: |
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Have you bled brakes in the past? Are you shutting the bleeder valve before your helper lets off the pedal? And/or submerging the bleeder hose in fluid so it can't suck in air? |
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As far as pedal feel, it is soft sometimes, and sometimes when bleeding it is hard. Counterintuitive. |
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When the light goes on do the rear brakes still actuate? The proportion valve when tripped will stop the fluid from going to that circuit. I would let the light come on and try to bleed the rear brakes no fluid the circuit is tripped if you get fluid then it may be the switch .
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See post number 5
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Re: Proportioning Valve Keeps Tripping?
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Re: Proportioning Valve Keeps Tripping?
The plan as of now;
1. I purchased a pressure bleeder, should be here Saturday. I will force all the air and fluid out with it if theres any. If no avail; 2. I will replace the master and proportioning valve with a 1-1/8" master kit. If no avail; 3. I will start going to church :lol: Does anyone think the dual-diaphragm 8" booster with a 1" bore master is an issue? I am not thinking it is as I dont know why one would be sold if that was the issue, but now I am possibly beginning to second guess all components. |
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Maybe change out the portioning valve it could be defective. |
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Pretty sure c10 and c20 are different the front on my c20 goes to the rear reservoir on the master
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I did my 72 manual disc/drum to power using the CPP booster/mc/pv. Rears went to rear of PV, front to front of PV. (pic)
O{, I think your issue is the PV or the shuttle switch in it. OP, power front disc brakes use a 1 1/8" MC. Manual drum uses 1" MC. Either should "work" but with the 1 1/8 MC the pedal stroke will be shorter which with the booster is all that is needed. |
Re: Proportioning Valve Keeps Tripping?
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As for bleeding an M/C, I do it on the truck using these hard lines. Surprisingly, not a lot of fluid leaks out when you remove them after bleeding. Sure beats doing it using those M. Mouse kits that come with some M/Cs.
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