Trailing arm crossmember with No Limit Arms
I'm in the process of starting the install of my full No Limit Engineering wide ride kit. I'm working from rear to front currently. The rear kit https://nolimit.net/store/63-72-C-10...stem-p63365097 comes with new mounts for the trailing arms. My question is has anyone used a different trailing arm crossmember that has provisions for exhaust to go through it? I called No Limit and they couldn't confirm if any would or would not work with their kit. I don't see why one of these wouldn't work, but was hoping maybe someone has gone down this road before.
https://tinworksfabrication.com/prod...m-crossmember/ |
Re: Trailing arm crossmember with No Limit Arms
I have the Tinworks crossmember. The rear face of the crossmember is flat and his mounts are angled for the trailing arm.
So it has been awhile, bear with my memory. If the Nolimit brackets for the trailing arms are made for the stock cross member is the stock crossmember angled where the original brackets rivet on? If so the Nolimit brackets will not be angled themselves and if bolted to a flat face will not have the correct angle for the trailing arms. Hopefully the Nolimit trailing arm joints would fit into the Tinworks bracket. Clear as mud, right? |
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I'm in the garage now and just snapped these pics. Also read on the tin works site that they sell just the trailing arm brackets &they look similar to the no limit ones, just a bunchmore adjustments. Also open to other crossmembers, I just kinda like tin works stuff and might order some other things if I go with their crossmember.
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Re: Trailing arm crossmember with No Limit Arms
My bet is the spacing for the front T/A mount (front/bushed part of the actual arm where the bolt goes through) is the same.
The physical brackets on the aftermarket x-member vs a stock x-member are different as pointed out. Most of the aftermarket x-members are flat (w/angled bracket) where the OE x-member was @ an angle (w/a straight bracket). That being said, as long as that front mount is the same dimension to fit within the bracket, any aftermarket x-member should work. Also, an FYI for those that might not know... There are bolt-on exhaust pass through kits for OE x-members as well. This is one of the examples: https://www.holley.com/products/exha.../parts/ECOB072 |
Re: Trailing arm crossmember with No Limit Arms
On my 68 C10 I ran my exhaust thru the stock TA crossmember. I bought a 2 pieces of 1/4" flat stock 5"? square. I hole sawed a 4" hole in both and welded them to the TA cross member.
Another thing to look out for is drive shaft clearance. My 68 was lowered 4/6. With my engine combo (LS6/T56) the drive shaft shop said I needed a 3" drive shaft. When I installed the the drive shaft it was close to the TA opening at the top. I cut away some of the opening and then I welded some 1/4" material to the top of the TA crossmember. |
Re: Trailing arm crossmember with No Limit Arms
Thanks guys, was not aware there were bolt in solutions. Although not a sexy, is a cheaper option. I guess I could just fabricate the same thing pretty easily. The driveshaft consideration is something too. I'm a long bed truck and will have a built 427 th350 550hp combo in it.
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Re: Trailing arm crossmember with No Limit Arms
Just one more thing. I fabbed two supports the ran from the TA cross member to the trans cross member. I think I used 1 1/2" round stock. Welded flat plates to each ends and bolted them up. Sorry no pics.
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Re: Trailing arm crossmember with No Limit Arms
I used the No Limit rear trailing arm kit, but I got a piece of 4" steel sewer pipe and sawed off 2 pieces about 3/8" wide. I just cut round holes int he crossmember and welded them in place. Now you can easily put a 3" exhaust through the holes.
Did you get their front end kit also? |
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Yes, I got the their whole kit, the wide ride crossmember, rack & pinion, sway bar, a arms, spindles, coil overs, trailing arm kit etc. |
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https://www.grainger.com/category/ra...&filters=attrs |
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Here is the bushing with dimensions. These show grease slots, but mine had none. https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/bulk-2557 |
Re: Trailing arm crossmember with No Limit Arms
they sell those exhaust cutouts everywhere too. I just ordered a cheap set for my stock crossmember, believe they were like 60 bucks off Amazon. pro performance has a nice set and so does brothers. these all bolt in but still need a 4" hole drilled out obviously.
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I also used a hole saw to make the two holes for the exhaust in the cross-member. It was a real PITA. I had to weld in a small extension for the hole saw center as it was in an area with no steel. If I had to do it again I would use a torch. Getting a drill that goes slow enough for such a large hole-saw is almost impossible. Cheers. |
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agree its a lot of surface area to cut at once , I find a faster and easier cut when using a large diameter hole saw is that after I mark it , I use a 1/4 '' drill bit and drill as many 1/4'' holes as I can on my mark line ,it makes for a lot less cutting and provides area for the shavings to move out of the way of the cutting edge of the hole saw
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its dangerous too lol. other than the annoying welding a flat piece in the middle to hold the drill bit, you have to take your time. that thing gets hung up and can cause some damage. if you want to spend a little more, i think brothers kit somes with a template that bolts to the stock crossmember using an existing bolt. the video is on their youtube channel.
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Thanks for the ideas guys. I was going to drill out and weld my own flanges and pass throughs in for the exhaust but ended up ordering a tin works cross member. Once it gets here I'll compare and contrast and post up how it works. Jrainman sorry to hear NL wouldn't make good on whatever it was you were missing. I've talked to them numerous times before and during this purchase and install and they have been nothing but helpful. Even talked to Rob a few weeks back when I ran into a slight hang up that turned into me over thinking something.
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Some great ideas. I admit you have to be stubborn just to do the hole saw thing. Cutting the section out with a torch is easiest. With out a torch adding the holes around the perimeter is a great idea. Wish I would have thought of that. If you do use a hole saw getting it to run slow it your best bet. You will ruin the hole saw if you don't. Then there is the safety aspect, a drill large enough to g slow is a hazard to life and limb if you don't have a plan to deal with the torque. Back to the torch if you have one.
Cheers. |
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It will make the rough cut easier & then it's just trimming to final ID. |
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