Saginaw swap
I'm working on a 66 c10, when I got the truck home the original trans and linkages were long gone. I'm wanting to put a later fully synchronized Saginaw in place of the original. The trans I have is supposed to be out of a 67 or 68 c10 mated to a 250 I6, I have a set of levers and linkages for a 67-72, I'm wanting to keep the shifter on the column. The linkages and levers aren't working out, Could I be running into a v8 verses I6 linkage issue? I would think that I would be having for issues if so if I was trying to run a v8, help or advice would be appreciated, thanks.
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Re: Saginaw swap
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I put one in my 66, had to change the bellhousing for the larger hole 5 1/8. Had a piece of tube welded in my first to reverse rod that was 3.25 inches long. the 67-72 rods won't work. My advise is to find you a set of 60-66 rods and cut a piece of tube out and have it welded in. I first put in solid rod and was too heavy, would pull its self down and hang.
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Thanks for replying, what selectors did you use? I have a pair of rods for a 1966 c10 and a pair from a 67-72 the pair that are suppose to be from the GMC are smaller solid rods, the ones that are suppose to be from the 67-72 are hollow, maybe it a GMC vs chevy thing? I originally planned to use the muncie selectors adapted to the saginaw but the rods were both too short. Sorry for not responding sooner my weekend project priority got changed.
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The Saginaw I'm using came out of a 69. I'm using the factory arms on the transmission and my rods off the 66. Also had to shorten the driveshaft 5 1/2 inches. short wheel base. Don't know about solid rods. I have 65-66 rods and some 69-72 rods both have a 5/8 od and a .085 wall. The factory (1966) second to third rod works as is, the first to reverse rod needs 3.25 inches added to it.
Aaron |
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Thanks for posting pics, I haven't had time to dive back in yet. I'll see if I can post some pics of what I'm working with as well.
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Ok, got I extended the first-reverse rod as now I can select all my gears. My issue now is my clutch, when I installed the transmission I also installed the bell housing that came with it. All my clutch parts look good but my peddle is sticking up super high compared to my brake and I can't get enough clutch adjustment to get into gear, do I need swap to the old bell housing as well?
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Anyway, I'm able to select all my gears now but now my clutch is acting up. I bought my motor, bell housing, and trans as a complete unit, it was removed from a 68 c10 for a V8/auto swap. Clutch and pressure plate appeared to be in good condition. My clutch peddle sticks up very high compared to my brake peddle, I can shift into gears with the clutch pressed and the motor not running so I know it's not a binding issue with the linkages, I got the adjustment linkage maxed out, I can start the truck with it in gear but it soundings like your riding the clutch and catches very low. Do I have a linkage issue? Or could my later bell housing affecting my clutch operation? |
Re: Saginaw swap
The clutch adjustment has NOTHING to do with how high the pedal sets make sure that the bump stop is still in place if it is missing then the pedal will be higher
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Z-bar and the length of the rod to the clutch pedal could effect the clutch travel. If your missing or using miss matched parts. Your going to have to search for correct pieces. Maybe ask another member with a similar truck for photo's and measurements. Here's a survivor.. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=613851
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As you can see in the thread referenced above in the third pic the clutch pedal is higher that the brake from the factory
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You probably have the wrong throw-out bearing there are like 3 different ones VERY common problem ...If you have the shortest bearing you may have too much free pedal and the linkage would be maxed out and still not work right |
Re: Saginaw swap
This thread has a few possible answers. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=373669
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Ok, I played my hunch and stopped by the parts store. I described my issue to the counter guy, he also thought I might have the wrong TO bearing, he had one in stock so I got it went home and pulled the inspection cover and sure enough I have the larger TO already. To be honest I couldn't remember but I sure was hoping it was the smaller of the two. Oh well I pulled the transmission I'm going to check with parts store and check into a clutch kit, the disc looks to be in good condition but maybe it's an old pressure plate that's just had the disc replaced and is worn out. I figure I'll check and if they have one at the parts store and take mine in and compare with the new one.
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Post pics of just what you have
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http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1469889503
This is the TO I was using, the new one is identical. |
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That looks a little rough, I would think the ripples would cause a vibration in the clutch when depressed and possibly wear the fork. Does the fork ball and socket look correct?
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Ok, I pulled the transmission and removed the clutch and pressure plate. Here's the old one:
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...pstk9yzh8h.jpg The new one: http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...psei5cj8ex.jpg The clutch discs were nearly identical, both read about .328" thick. I reinstalled everything and the new pressure plate is night and day difference, I figure the old pressure plate has had a couple clutch discs in it's past. But now my new HD pressure plate is more than my home made bracket can handle, it was missing so I made one out of 1/8" flat stock, it flexes like crazy when I press the clutch. Oh well now I need to find one of these: http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...psukwflzul.png Oh well back to hunting parts. |
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Your going to get this wrapped up yet ! Long painful process to figure out all the details in a 40+ yr old truck. I have a long z-bar but I don't see a i6 clutch pivot for the engine. I will keep looking.here is a possibility .http://www.ebay.com/itm/67-68-69-70-...dXF2n1&vxp=mtr
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IF you have a welder you can weld a piece of flat stock on the top of your home made pivot bracket to stiffen-it up ( make sure your bolt spacing is correct when you do )
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