Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Good idea.

mr48chev, anyone who's been on this forum for any length of time is well aware of your opinions of lowered or frame-swapped trucks. You don't need to seek out these types of threads to keep reminding everyone.
Just a suggestion; when you see a thread titled "bagged" or "lowered" or "slammed" or "S10 swap" DON'T CLICK ON IT.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Hi Skymangs

Can you explain how you got the tires to stick out closer to the stock fender openings...I have seen a lot of these builds and the S10 track width seems to be a little narrow in stock form. Any insight on this would be awesome...I gotta say you got the look down perfect...(I am working thru a S10 on a Willys cab/body)...I would love to see your fixes...mine is all stock V6 5 speed...so it will be nice to see how you address these many issues involved in these swaps...

thanks for posting this thread...

MikeC

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Excellent thread Skymangs, thanks for posting it. I look forward to more info on the radiator set-up. I have a similar set-up for framing the cross-flow radiator I have but needed the info on the mounts. Look forwards to more info as you have time to post.
Thanks
Ron

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I used billet spacers on mine. Spacers have come a long way in the last few years. Originally I used 7" wheels with a 1" back space, never could get the racing style wheels to balance properly so spacers became the solution.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Wow, thanks for all the great response to this!

Steve Aleve; I don't have any good pics, but I'm putting one together this coming week, and plan to fill in the "gaps" with detailed photos of several of my mods.

Mikec4193; I use 2" billet aluminum wheel spacers on the front. Exactly as S10fan stated. Be sure you get billet (stronger) and don't go over 2". On the rear axle, I use an S10 4x4 axle. I've seen people use spacers back there as well though.

Kodiak53; I can put up some more pics of core support mods as well. Mostly it's key to make the 4" channel at the bottom, and use the late 60's gm "isolator cushions". I get them on ebay for about $20.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Im in for this thread!!!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I just wish I had this info before I started my (Frankenstine) build.
It would have saved me a lot of time n head aches.
I do get thur most of the problems the old fashion way(try n era)
ha ha !!

Some really great info.
Thanks "skymangs"

T-P Auto
Tim

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I can't thank you enough for this thread!! I'm a newbie to this site and a proud new owner of a 49' 5 window. I'm just in the entry level stages of an S-10 frame swap now and this thread is JIT!! Probably going to rebuild the 283 and marry it with a 350 turbo tranny. Thanks for taking your time to detail your builds and pics!!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Welcome to the forum Sir! Tons of info here, lots of friendly members!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Thanks guys.

Nebo49; My one regret on my son's truck was using a TH350... If I could do it again, I'd use a 700R4... Overdrive makes such a big difference in drivability.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Thanks Sarge...That's def food for thought esp from someone like yourself who's been there done that...It has the old powerglide and considered keeping it to, but now you've got me thinking on the 700 for sure...I appreciate the advice...I may bother you with some other questions later on if you don't mind lol!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Because it will def be a daily driver

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I wanted to cover the frame a bit tonight. One thorn in my side has always been the S10 rear cab mounts. They are huge, and seam welded all around the inside. My first several builds took me about 2 hrs to get them off and cleaned up. I can now get both off in about 30 min, so I'm going to detail my solution.

First, I use a cut off wheel, and cut the upright welds, and the top weld (pic 1).
There are 2 stitch welds (1.5" or so) on top, against the frame (pic 2). I use my cut off wheel to score both of them. Then a 5lb sledge from inside, to stretch those welds a bit. I cut some more, then tap some more, 3 or 4 times, and those seams pop. (pic 3) then, since I've already cut the inner welds, the whole bracket breaks off pretty cleanly. A little cleanup with a flap disk, and you are golden. (pic 4).

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Thanks Bryan ...Looking forward to being here and talking with you guys!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

The front cab mounts are easy. I use a plasma to cut the front and rear edges, then knock them off with a sledge. Of course, a cut-off wheel would work just as well, but fire is way cooler!

I leave the bed mounts right behind the cab mount (pic 4). I re-use them to support the bed (I'll detail this later in the thread)

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Ok, now that the cab is on, and the driveline is set, it's time to start figuring out the box and running boards. First thing I do is cut 2 lengths of 1.5 x 1.5 11ga. boxed tube steel to 49.5". These will be your new "cross-sills". I put the box on the frame, then place one cross sill above the front box mounts (the ones I left), and under the factory angle edge strips on the stock pickup box. Then the second piece of steel goes directly on the frame, behind the rear axle "hump" in the frame. This should give you a nice level bed at the correct height for my "version 2" cab stands.

Then I drill a 1/4" pilot hole through the tube steel, and a 1" holesaw on the top side (access for the nuts and bolts), and bolt them right to the frame. I seam weld the 1.5" square tube to the bed side, around all 4 sides. now when you put weight on the bed, it is supported directly by the frame, and not the bedsides.

Be sure to check for level on your box. I do that by placing a 36" level along the drivers rocker, then along the top of the bed rail. Ensuring that the bubble is in the same location for both. then I check level side to side on the front panel, and tailgate. Finally I take a measurement from the windline on the back of the cab to the top of the box on both sides to be sure they are the same.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I should have clarified. Bolt your cross sills to the frame, DO NOT weld them to the bed sides yet. Let the bed ride on the cross sills for now, so it can slide back and forth a couple inches. You will need to bolt on the fenders, and mock up the running boards/splash gaurds to give you proper placement for your bed before you weld them in. More tomorrow.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Oh man this is so good!!!
http://i.imgur.com/O1zDJ.gif

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Thanks...

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

So the next step for me is to get the brake pedal assembly, brake booster, steering column, and gas pedal taken care of. I start with the S10 pedal assembly.

I cut steering column hole (in the toe board) about 2" farther to the left to give me room to work with. Next I center the S10 pedal assembly visually between the dash gauges, so that the column will fit properly when it's finished.

I trim the pedal assembly where it meets the dash. I can't really give you dimensions, I just do it by holding it up, marking it with a sharpie, trimming, checking, until it fits right. you will have to "pie cut" the right side slightly, and re-weld it to fit the contour of the lower dash though. I use the S10 pedal assembly holes, then drill new ones in the lower dash to bolt it in. I will use these same bolts to secure the steering column later as well.

I also tack a 1/8" piece of steel 6" x 8" between the pedal assembly and the firewall, to give it more strength.

Once the dash side is bolted in, I mark the center of the holes on the firewall, remove the bracket, and drill 3/16 pilot holes from the inside. I have a poster-board template I use from outside the firewall for the center-bore of the brake booster, then I drill the 4 pilot holes out to 7/16".

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Once the pedal assembly is in, just bolt the booster/master to the outside of the firewall. Next I fill the offset hole for the old column (I center the new column between the gauges)

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Hey skymangs, If i found a complete running 96 longbed with the 5 speed manual transmission, can I use that tranny on a SBC 350 engine?

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Skymangs, thanks for the details! I was literally planning on making my cab stands/frame mounts today, using 4x4 tubing, with a bracket to leave 3.5" clearance on the front and 3 3/4 on the rear, plus stock s10 pads.

My question is, your plans show 3 1/4 on the front, and 4 inches on the rear plus stock s10 pads, how much clearance do you have for the transmission? or do you fab up a trans tunnel?

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

This thread is great. The addition of the tips and tricks (like cleaning the wax off the frame) and the measurements for various setups is very helpful and not typically covered in build threads... Thanks!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I'm doing an S-10 swap but have a couple questions for anyone that would offer advice...I have a 95 longbed frame but don't know if that frame will work after researching a few other builds. I think that it may be to long at 205"....Also what rear axle ratio works better with a SB V8? I'm trying to find an S-10 4x4 rear end that is longer or a Ford 9"...Any advice is greatly appreciated...thanks