Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I'm gonna need to see those seats. I've been shopping around for some power heated seats to pimp my otherwise beat up truck. Starting to look for those comforts to drive it daily in the summer.... A/C is on the list too.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Crusty has a mild 350 with a 700r4....

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

nice truck!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I've written a book on the subject, way more detailed than this thread. I'm trying to have it published.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Good luck!

You may be able to self-publish online. Don't have to find publisher/printer.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

put me down for a copy!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Chris, that will be a good read, I'll take a copy...Jim

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I don't have the rear fender rods that go to the frame. Since I'm using a S10 frame, I'd have to build something to fit.

What are others doing about the rear fender rod to frame?

Thanks

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Just that. Took 3/8 round rod and welded washers on the ends to put a 5/16 bolt thru.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Thanks.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

if the rods are still on my fenders I just bend them to the bed wall and weld them there, if the rods are missing I use either rods from the s10 donor or make them and attach them to the bed wall. no need to go to the frame in my opinion, its not a "work" truck any longer, dont have to worry about bumping cows, just to keep the fender from flapping

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I was in the pasture with cows yesterday, so I really liked that analogy. But you're right, this one will never be in the pasture with the cows!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Hello! I am just starting to work on my '51 5 window, I've got a 2000 S10 LB frame to put it on already. I am looking at a '94 S10 Blazer 4wd to get parts from like brake booster/master, pedal assembly, rear end etc. Will all of this work from a blazer or does it have to be an S10 truck? Blazer will only cost me $300 and it runs and drives.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I just picked up some Blazer front discs for my S10 frame.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

the parts you listed will work fine. I cant say for your "etc" though, some parts like the front spindles and brakes are 4x4 only. you may find other things that will work too

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Thanks Joedoh, I have learned a lot from reading you builds !!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Are all 4x4 rearends limited slip/posi or are there open diffs also? I know I have 3.42 gears but not sure of the options.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

the open diff is a lot more common, if you can see the glovebox RPO codes on the truck you are getting the axle from it will be G80 to indicate a locker. on the ground without the RPO its easier to just pull the diff cover carefully and have a look. the old "spinning one wheel" trick wont work with the type of locker the s10s have.

s10s never got limited slip, the G80 option is a locker that has a set of pawls that get flung out when one wheel speed greatly exceeds the other, catching the casing and "locking" both wheels together. they arent the greatest for horsepower applications because that pawl can and will snap itself on application, or break the carrier. they are also called a "low speed locker" because they only work at low speeds. I think most of the bad rap that a 7.5/7.625 rear gets is guys who buy the locking rear and do big gnarly burnouts till the locker or the carrier breaks. I mean, any rear end would probably die from that kind of abuse.

a GM limited slip has a wet clutch between the two axles and when one wheel spins faster than the other, springs force the clutch plates together and torque is always split to a certain amount, never 100%, always less like 70 or 80%. these can be found in GM performance cars, like firebirds or camaros, with the same 7.5/7.625 rears so you can swap them in if you like (make sure you get the carrier type right, there are 3 kinds)

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

skymangs - Thank you so much for this thread, the detail, the pdf's, the measurements, i massively appreciate it
This all seemed so daunting at a glance, but after reading the thread im really motivated

Thank you

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

you bet! I guess the older generation was always liberal with the information , when I first starred looking for this info (like 10 years ago now) everyone was really tight lipped and it pissed me off! when I had mastered it I decide to share just to piss people off!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I like that , . . . . . . the more old steel on the streets the better !!!!

Thank you brother :)

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

What would work for a 54 suburban? S10 framewise? Ex cab s10? Or crew? Or lwb?

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

is your suburban a 3100 or 3600?

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

So... here we go with my first post (and questions)
A big thank you for Skymangs for starting this thread and sharing his knowledge. I saw a YouTube video of one of these trucks and knew instantly... I wanted one! I have said for years I would build one more car... as a driver - no more race cars. 1 week after seeing the video I had a 53 5 window and have been getting parts every chance I get. I got the truck on 7/20/19. Then a 85 S10 (long bed std can),then a Z06 rear end, camaro SS 20" wheels, next came a LS 6.0 LQ9 and a 4L60e, 3" blocks, 2" drop spindles. I have my cab mounted 2.75" high. The floor is rusted (gone). Should I fab a floor from scratch, buy stock panels, use the S10 floor or get the ones I see advertisements for with a small tunnel. I have not mounted the motor/trans and I am unsure of how big of a tunnel I will need??? Any and all help would be greatly appreciated

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

a lot of time when a floor is "gone", the structure is still ok. so if your cab supports are still intact and just the sheet floor is rusted, you can use a drill and cut the rusted floor off the spports and just use new 18 or 16ga sheet to patch. I have gotten cheap patch panels on rockauto before too.

if your can supports are rusted away then you will need to replace them with stock parts or the cab mounts youu have wont line anything up.