Lurker OrrieG Progress Pics
 

I have owned my 59 Fleetside since 1976. I'm the third owner, it is an Arizona desert truck. I drove it until 1985 as a 235-4 speed. During that time we crossed and recrossed the south-west many times. In 1985 when the motor finally gave up at 220K I bought a donar 74 K10 drive train with 120K on the clock and transplanted it under the 59. Engine came from a 65 pickup (283 w/ cam). I drove it in that configuration until around 1997 when the cab rust was getting bad enough it needed taken care of. I decided to do a frame off on it and spent the next year taking it apart, stripping the body, etc.

My business then took off and I worked on it occasionaly. Last summer I decided it was time to put it back together or sell the parts and get it out of the garage. Wife also promised no home projects (every summer had been an major remodeling/addition project that took up the weekends) so I could finish the truck.

I have been lurking here for about 6 months, there are some really nice rigs and great advice, some of which I have incorporated into the truck. Here are five pictures: one of the truck when I took it off the road, two of the frame I painted this Saturday, one each of the steering setup and power brake setup I installed on Sunday.

Enjoy, I will continue to post as I put it back together.

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Very nice looking truck. You are going to enjoy it when it gets back on the road. I have gotten great advise and lots of ideas from the guys on this board. Welcome.

Bernie

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:welcome2: :hi2:

Yea another 4 lighter shows up with pictures as well. Looks like a good start.

Brian ..:cool:

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Sweet start! What are you plans? In the weeds or nose bleed? Look forward to seeing your progress pics. Welcome from CA.:metal:

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Welcome! Is that an original NAPCO? Either way it looks like a keeper to me!

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Very Nice!

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Hey,,http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t...9/untitled.jpg,,
Looks like a good start,keep us posted....:)

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Thanks for the comments. Here are answers to your questions:

1. Stance: Semi Nose Bleed. Front axle it bolted to the bottom of the stock 59 springs. Rear axle requires a Rancho 4" lift block to get frame level. The b&w photo shows the final ride height.

2. NAPCO? No, it is a 74 K10 front & rear axle, 203 NP transfer with 350 TH trans. Steering box is K20 from mid 70's. I used the stock front drive line which set the transfer case/trans location. That locates the engine in about the stock location. The transfer crossmember had to have about 4" extensions welded on. I fabricated front mounts to use the original front V-8 engine mounts. I'll post pictures of that as I start mounting stuff.

Progess since last time: Transfer cleaned up, painted. Turns out chain is in good shape (whoopee more money for other goodies). Got new brake lines, better bender, 4 new Rancho shocks. Also Russell braided lbrake lines from the calipers and back tee to hard lines. With any luck will get all that installed next weekend.

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Welcome to the board from OKC, great lookin 4 holer.

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I love this post. You are a few steps ahead of me. I'm using a '77 k10 running gear. I have the front axle mocked up and have been trying to figure out how to get the rear end up level or a bit higher than the front. I didn't know if the four inch blocks would be enogh and if they were safe. Did you drive it much with those blocks in place? I would also like to know if you made that power steering bracket or if you bought it somewhere. Can you post pics of that crossmember or explain more of the spacers? I can't figure out how to get my pics posted here but it's on Cardomain.com , search for (b_sharp). You can see the front end in and other progress.

Thanks and looking forward to keeping up with your progree.

B.Sharp

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I ran the truck with the 4" blocks for 10 years and around 50K miles without any problems. When I did the conversion I was told 4" was the max. I used a Rancho lift kit. The blocks will get it level, I use air shocks to keep it level when loaded, run them with minimum air when not loaded.

I fabed the PS plate based on one I saw at a car show. The 74 series frames bend in at the front so on the stock 59 frame the box will be about 2-3 inches outboard. This means that the tire will hit the pitman arm when you are at extreme right (clockwise) steering and the turning radius is reduced. Not a problem during normal driving but can make parallel parking and turning around on backwood roads interesting. The factory setup comes with a stop nut that you will need to weld an extension on depending on the size tires you run to keep the tire from rubbing.

I found a 74 and measured the distance from the axle center line to the pitman arm shaft(horizontal), axle CL to bottom of the pitman arm (vertical) & the angle of the shaft to the frame. I then made some 3/8" thick cardboard templates and mocked up the plate. It lines up with one stock frame hole, two are drilled in the frame and the upper hole just goes through the bracket. I used through bolts to attach everything, the threads in the steering box were starting to strip out. I will take some good photos next time I work on the truck. I will also see if I can find you the original measurements and template. Important thing is to make sure the pitman arm moves in a horizontal plane.

I will also photo the crossmember bracket too and take some measurements.

I looked at you photos and saw you have the front torsion bar on it. Have you figured out if the horseshoe brackets will mount to the frame ok and the bar will not interfere with the radiator or pulleys? I ran mine with out the bar but think I will add it this rebuild. I have the same cab corner and hinge pocket rust to deal with on mine too.

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Hey man,

I found out the rear hole of the horeshoe bracket will mount to the factory crossmember but the front is a little outside. There will have to be a plate added to mount the front too. I haven't tried anything back on the front end yet. I won't plate this until the motor and front end are back on the truck. I don't want to redue anything twice if possible. I got all the cab rust out of the way first. I have a little bit of rust around the front window frame to deal with but not much. I have been looking at those rear 4" mounts on different sites. I think when I get the rear end out of the other truck I will get a set of those for my truck. I'd like to see the pictures you talked about. That will help me figure out where to make my changes. And knowing the measurements and plate dimensions would help greatly. I was wandering if the power steering was going to be a huge issue or not. How did you have your steering ran to it? Did you use a stock steering set up or something different? I plan on using a tilting/telescoping column out of a 70's cadillac. It's really nice and should work out great if I can figure out how to make the telescoping part work with an aftermarket steering wheel setup. Keep me posted on your progress.

Thanks again, B.Sharp

Re: Lurker OrrieG Progress Pics 1959 4WD
 

Minor progress the last couple of weeks. Got the Rancho shocks installed, front brake lines ran, proportioning valve installed and plumbed to front brakes and master cylinder. In the process burned up the drill press motor. Heres some photos:

UPDATE; keen eyes will note in the front shock photo the top bracket will not work. I discovered this when I put in the engine for the first time after installing the shocks. They would not allow the axle and springs to compress. You will see later on I modified the bracket so the upper and lower shock bolts are parallel like they are supposed to be.

ALSO; I used the stock brake line coils but turned them 90 degrees. Not good, I later turned them so the coils are horizontal. In the vertical configuration they trap air pockets and are a ***** to bleed. I wasted a weekend trying to find the last bunch of air. After I changed them I had the brakes bleed out in an hour.

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Hey man,

Any luck with those dimensions or any new progress on the truck? I got my reaer end out of the '77 this past weekend and ordered my blocks. I hope to have it in place in a few weeks. I could use some pics of that crossmember and dims of that bracket. I'll try to look tonight to see if I can tell where me brackets for the rear were bolted on. I believe they were on the outside of the frame. I will double check though.

B.Sharp

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This weekend I took a bunch of detailed photos and dimensions, I will PM them to you tomorrow.

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More progress photos. Since my last post I have finished the brakes up, ended up replacing the master cylinder. The new line installation went better than expected except for fighting bleeding on rear wheel. Turned out the new speed bleeder was defective. Once I got a good master cylinder and the bleeder replaced things went well.

Transmission (TH350) is cleaned up and ready to install as soon as the new aluminum finned pan arrives. It will give 2 quarts more capacity and add some bling to the under carriage. It is supposed to be here tomorrow (got it from Summit). Easy install, then mate it to the transfer and drop them onto the frame. I decided to drop in the engine block so I can do the fuel and tranny cooling lines while the cab is off.

Speaking of the cab this weekend I welded up the firewall holes and smoothed the firewall. 47 holes in all ranging in size from screw size to 1"+. Below are 4 photos showing the before, holes patched and welded, after grinding and primed. I need to do some final blocking and touch up.

I started cleaning up the underside of the cab and will get it undercoated this week (its going to be an off-road driver and the original under coating did a really good job of keep it relatively rust free).

Here's the photos...

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Looks like you made some head way!:metal:

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Very cool man. I haven't had time to work on mine any. I did get my 4 inch blocks in and have the rear end ready to go in. I just need to pull the 2wd rear out. I would appreciate seeing those dim's and any other info. Thanks and I look forward to hearing from you. Don't forget to PM me.

Latr, B.Sharp

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More progress, installed the new trans pan (Summit without their logo) and put the transmission and tranfercase onto the frame. Quite a one-man wrestiling match!!!

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looking good, don't you have to install a check valve on your brake system since the MC sits so low? I thought I read that somewhere else? Was it an original 2WD in 59? When did it turn 4x4? I'm doing a 68 so I don't have a clue about 59's. My buddy is doing a 2WD 59 Apache though.... I like that it's still original frame and now a newer frame and drivetrain with a 59 body.

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Great project - will have to make a point of keeping track of this post.

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it is called a residual pressure valve. it is needed when the mc is not mounted higher than the wheels. you need a 2 lb. valve for discs and a 10 lb. valve for drums. it is so the fluid doesn't drain back into the mc.

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looking good, don't you have to install a check valve on your brake system since the MC sits so low? I thought I read that somewhere else? >>On street rods where the MC and proportioning valve can get below the calipers you need to. Mine sits above the calipers. I ran it in the same position but farther forward (no booster) for 10 years without a problem.

Was it an original 2WD in 59? >>Yes with 235, three speed, original Arizona truck<<

When did it turn 4x4? >>1985. I just dropped the 74 axles, tranny and transfer into the frame. Engine got tired and rust was getting pretty bad around 98 so I decided to do the frame off on it<<

I'm doing a 68 so I don't have a clue about 59's. My buddy is doing a 2WD 59 Apache though.... I like that it's still original frame and now a newer frame and drivetrain with a 59 body. >>Obviously thats the way I like them too. You'd be surprised how similar the 55-78's are. I'd like to think that the Chevy engineers were actually thinking that we might swap some of the "newer" stuff into the older trucks. Example: The 74 emergency brake mechanism bolts right up to the 59 hood bolts (you need to drill out the studs on the bracket and thread in longer bolts)Makes for a nice way to get rid of the multilever stock mechanism.

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One of the members requested detailed information on the steering box so here it is:

Here are photos of the steering box. I also did a hand sketch that shows the mounting location, plate, shim and bolt sizes. When I did mine I made a template out of 3/8" cardboard and mocked it up. One of the holes aligns with an existing hole in the frame so it is relatively easy to set the template for drilling the other 2 holes. The plate and top hole are above the frame. The box is mounted at a 15 degree angle, this maintains the proper steering arm alignment. I used through bolts and nuts because two of the threads in the steering box were stripped and I like the idea of nuts with lock washers in addition to the threads into the cast box.


EDIT 6-11. I discovered that the box mounts over the stock bumper bracket location. I modifed the bracket to fit in the front most bolt shim space between the plate and box. I added a couple of pictures at my post 6-17-11, maxed out here.

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A member requested more info on the trans bracket:

On mine the drop is exactly 4". I just had plate welded to the original bracket. You have to drill new holes in the frame. Because the plates will offset the brackets further outside of the frame you will need to pull them to get the cross mount bolts to line up (I use a pipe clamp).