Unconventional sway bar
Hey all, has anyone tried fitting up unconventional sway bars in their trucks? What I mean by that is non-square body ones. Squares are hard to find in salvage yards here, but newer suburbans, tahoes, etc. are not. I'm wondering about trying to fit one from a 3500 Express van, it is 1 3/8" diameter and easy to find. Also wondering about rear bars from newer suburbans/tahoes.
Any experimentation happening? Thanks! |
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Square body sway bars are pretty unique in there bends, and nothing i have looked at would be close to bolt in
For modification purposes I would suggest a bar with ends links so it is easier to fab up swap brackets. As far as candidates. Make a drawing of your current bar, and take measurements of the widths of the arms at major bends. This way you can appx match it to a higher degree. Depending on what your goals are a thicker bar may not be better, and effectively binds the suspension. Due to inability to twist. Especially if your looking at a 1 3/8's bar designed for a heavier vehicle around modern ideals. Modifying your cross member for better camber gain is a much better mod for handling then a larger bar. For towing then a larger bar can help keep the truck planted. |
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I'm looking at it for an 86 Suburban, so my thought is similar weight or weight distribution vehicles. End links is the only way I was looking, because of the ease of fabbing up new ones. Seems that all of the newer GM bars are that way. They also are shaped different, but that may not matter if the tires don't rub on them when turned. The bends are much tighter than the original bar and with end links it doesn't have to come in to meet the control arm from the front.
People rave about the 1 1/4" one ton bar....so....that's what influenced my thinking. Very open to gaining knowledge though! And please do inform about modifying the crossmember for better camber gain! I want to learn more! |
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Maybe take your current one to a self service yard and look around. I've done that with other parts, but, have them mark your part so you don't end up buying it again when you leave. :lol:
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Seems I've read of people using F150 and Dodge units but don't have any specific data or link to provide to know what or how things were done/used.
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Some say lowering the upper a-arm 1/2 inch helps alot too. I have done it, but never as a stand alone mod to determine the true impact. I have a dial guage I can use to determine if I need more or less. I will have my free project here hopefully in a few months, and the crossmember will be the first mod. Most of my plans are pretty out there, but I intend to taylor it to rally cross style racing. Even if the only person I race is myself. Obviously the best shocks you can afford. Bilstiens are my fav, but KYB's are always a budget choice. I have used cheaper shocks in a dual shock arrangement, but that was for durability as a main course of action. Depending on how low your Suburban is you may have to tweak shock lengths, and angles. The shock for ideal purposes should be at mid travel, and something less then a 15* lay back. Some say vertical is better to the axle, but laid back towards the wheel. All agree too much angle greatly reduces shock effectiveness. Most importantly there is a long thread on how to make it handle. Which offer more opinions on which to base your needs/wants. |
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Moving the lower a-arm forward helps w/Caster gain. It also helps keep the front wheel better centered w/aggressive drops. If you do the 'Caster Mod' & depending on how you do it, you might need to tweak the shock mounting since it possibly shifts the lower mount forward w/the mod. It's an easy fix but should be considered.
Lowering the upper a-arm mounting points can help the Camber curve. It's easier to swap in taller upper BJ's though if you're rebuilding the front end. |
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Alex. |
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There are the holes for the OE truck style mounting link (2qty 3/8"). I've seen those used or a bracket fabricated off the vertical portion of the arm as well depending on what end links are chosen. |
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Just poking around looking for more info;
Hmmm, addco's approach to it; https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...olet/model/c10 Thing that catch my attention; looks like L-brackets to bolt to the lower control arm for a link mount. Makes me wonder if thats to set a bar further forward to clear the power steering box by mounting the frame mounts direct like a passenger car, without the usual truck spacer bracket. 46" eye to eye for this particular bar. |
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I gusseted the ones I made. I feel the ones in the pic are not adequate. |
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