1969 Chevy C10
 

My truck as it sits today, been sitting in pieces for the last 7 years. Started on it and life had other plans. Now I need a vehicle and decided that the money I scrapped together was better spent on bringing the truck back to life.
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Re: 1969 Chevy C10
 

At least you still have it and can put it back together!

I moved your thread to the 67-72 build section since you posted in the 60-66 build section first.

Re: 1969 Chevy C10
 

Build pictures from transmission rebuild; was a real nightmare with 51 year old gaskets to scrape off, springs that had rusted away completely and 51 years of road grime to clean. This is the 3rd transmission I have rebuilt and hopefully the last for awhile.
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Re: 1969 Chevy C10
 

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Re: 1969 Chevy C10
 

I will be following along!

Re: 1969 Chevy C10
 

Got a lot done on the truck this weekend. Stripped the dash, pulled the cab off the frame, pulled the engine out. Now down to the frame. Next step is to rebuild the differential, upgrading to 3.73 gears with limited slip.Attachment 2051462
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Re: 1969 Chevy C10
 

Pics of a build are cool. In a couple of years when you are kicked back in a lawn chair looking at your finished truck, you can say "I remember when it looked like this". ;)

Re: 1969 Chevy C10
 

Definitely looking forward to those days, better than the last 2 wondering when the swelling in my hands would go down.

Re: 1969 Chevy C10
 

If I did what you did in a weekend, I'd have swollen hands also! :lol:

Re: 1969 Chevy C10
 

Holy sheepdip, Batman!!!
If you can rebuild a transmission, the rest of this will be great!!!

What drive train, and other plans do you have for it???

Re: 1969 Chevy C10
 

It is getting a slightly modified 305 with Edelbrock intake and 650CFM carb, the TH350 Trans. Differential is getting rebuilt with 3.73 gears and limited slip from Yukon. suspension will be just a straight rebuild with drum brakes for now based on my budget.

Re: 1969 Chevy C10
 

Removed the differential, that was fun, required quite a bit of persuasion to separate the ubolts from the trailing arms. Also got started on the sanding/wire wheeling of the frame. Have to decide if I am going to replace the trailing arm bushings, based on the state of the other bushings I am thinking it would be best while everything else is coming apart.
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Re: 1969 Chevy C10
 

LOL, just get it road worthy!!! I am in similar situation with my 67 C10, it justnees to be on the road!!!
Trailing arm bushings are readily available

Re: 1969 Chevy C10
 

No rain this weekend so was able to get a lot accomplished. Frame is now bare naked and 2/3rds has been wire wheeled and sanded. Suspension is where I can work on it even if it rains.
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Re: 1969 Chevy C10
 

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Re: 1969 Chevy C10
 

Spent the weekend removing ball joints and cleaning. There is a hot place in hell for the engineer who decided riveting the upper ball joints was a good idea, wasted a lot of time trying to get through those rivets with a cutoff wheel and a steel punch. Managed to get primer on the lower control arms and will be installing the lower ball joints this week so I can get the tool back to the store and get my money back for the rental.
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Re: 1969 Chevy C10
 

Have made quite a bit of progress in getting front suspension painted and frame primed. Started painting the frame last night in the dark with a headlight
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Re: 1969 Chevy C10
 

Managed to finish painting the frame and started reassembling the front end, unfortunately ran into a snag with the spring compressor i got from AutoZone, could not get it out once it was assembled as the hole on the lower control arm is too small. Got a different set of compressors from advanced auto that go on the outside, hoping these will work as there isn't any weight on the frame to assist in compression. Even being careful I almost came off the jackstands a couple of times.
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Re: 1969 Chevy C10
 

I had the same issue with the autozone spring compressor. You can put the spring compressor through the lower control arm and compress the spring onto the control arm. Then break loose the spindle. reinstall in the reverse order. I have a pic I’ll post after work.

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Re: 1969 Chevy C10
 

Unfortunately the holes in my lower control arms are too small for the top part of the compressor to fit through. Sad part is I used the same type of compressor years ago on a vega and the holes in the lower control arms were big enough to fit the compressor through. I think the holes were cut on a monday by someone with a serious hangover.

Re: 1969 Chevy C10
 

Truck is starting to come along nice
I have been thinking about trying to rebuilt my 4l80e for my truck
Looking at post like yours help steer me in that direction
Are you going to upgrade to disc brakes

Re: 1969 Chevy C10
 

Yes, you must unthread the the block with the hooks on it from the the threaded rod. Then the block with hooks is positioned on the spring. I’m pretty sure it slid in from the side. The threaded rod then slides through the lower control arm and is threaded back into the block with hooks. I had the same problem with it not fitting through the control arm. Get er dun

Re: 1969 Chevy C10
 

No unfortunately the budget does not cover disc brake conversion

Re: 1969 Chevy C10
 

Tried that as well, not enough room between the coils to fit it through and no tool to spread the coils apart. I would have known this if I used compressors to remove them instead of just banging it apart and watching the frame jump up. But we live and learn.

Re: 1969 Chevy C10
 

It's doable, just not fun. If you remove the block as stated by unscrewing it, remove one of the hooks on the removed block, then you can insert it into the coil through the hole in the LCA. Reattach the hook from outside the spring, through the spring gap while the other hook has already been put into place. Insert worm gear, thread into block, leaving wrench end and other hook outside of the LCA. Use plates to brace the wrench end against the LCA.

Obviously this is for disassembly, but just reverse for assembly. Pic shows only one metal brace, but I actually use two, one on either side of block.