tie rod ends
 

G'day all
I have a 72 K20 (leaf spring front end), when I bought 2 yrs ago the upper and lower ball joints and inner and outer tie rod ends were shot. The tie rod ends were actually worn where they screw into the tie rod.
I replaced all these 12 mths ago and got new tyres shortly afterwards
I went out to rotate the tyres this morning and I noticed that the drivers side tie rod end is worn again where it threads into the steering rod. From what I can gather this means that the female thread in the tie rod must be worn.
Does this sound right?
What could have caused this?
Can I take this to a fabrication shop and have a new end machined on ?
I live in Australia so the freight on tie rod ends is bad enough without trying to send a 5 or 6 foot tie rod as well if I need a whole new rod.
Any and all comments appreciated.
Aussie.


[This message has been edited by Aussie (edited 03-28-2001).]

I also have 33x12.5x16.5 tyres and I noticed that the outside of the tyre is worn more than the inside.
I had a wheel alignment done when the tyres were installed.
What is my problem?
Aussie

Hey Aussie, I am not a 4-wheel drive guy but I wanted to Welcome you to the board. I am sure some of the guys can help you with your question. Come on guys lets help the new guy out.

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67 GMC Stepside(UNDER CONSTRUCTION)
67 GMC Custom
67 Chevy C-30

Thanks for the welcome Tim.
Does anyone out there have any idea's?

Hi Aussie, Not sure if I read your post right..... The threads on the tie-rod ends have stripped off and the ends have pulled out of the tie-rod? (tie rod is the bar with the female threads and the tie-rod ends are the ball joints that screw into the tie rod) If that is the case the female threads on the tie rod are probably destroyed as well. In older cars sometimes the threads will rust off and strip. Does your truck have a lift-kit? Sometimes if it isnt lifted right you will put extra strain on the steering components. Let us know. CoryM

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1970 heavy duty C-10 fleetside sport truck. Vancouver B.C. Canada http://www.geocities.com/chevroletc1070/



[This message has been edited by CoryM (edited 03-25-2001).]

G'day Cory
No nothing has stripped.
With everything tightened up I can take hold of the tie rod and when I shake it I can see and feel movement where the tie rod end screws into the tie rod.
Since the tie rod ends are only 1 yr old I am assuming that the wear must be in the female threads of the tie rod.
What would have caused this? Just old age?
I have had the springs reset to around stock height, maybe 1" higher. The 33" tyres just clear.
I would also like to know why my tyres are wearing on the outside.
Can anyone tell me what the front end should be set for in caster, camber, toe in and anything else that effects steering and tyre wear?

[This message has been edited by Aussie (edited 03-26-2001).]

Anyone?

Just a lttle food for thought, It sounds like the female ends of your tie rod are in trouble. The Chevrolet truck service manual shows a correct way and a incorrect way for the tie rod adjustment clamps to be positioned when tightened. Don't know what your tie rod tube ends look like now, if it is safe to use or not, but if the clamps are not positioned correctly, they will not pinch the ends properly leaving the tie rod end able to wiggle loose after some use. The tie rod tube slot has to be either completely enclosed within clamp or completely exposed within clamp when tightened. It's a lttle hard to explain but did you follow me?

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1971 C10 swb stepside 350/700R4/3.73posi

TOP

Yea I think I do.
You mean that the open side of the clamp must line up with and expose the slot in the tie rod tube. I don't understand about the clamp completly enclosing the slot but, I think my slot is longer than the clamp.
Do You have any specs on the front end allignment?
Thanks Gordo

Yes, if you be sure to have slot line up with clamp opening you will be OK. Or you can rotate clamp so that the gap in slot is completely under clamp, either way will work as long as the gap is not half way under clamp. Clear as mud, eh? As far as specs go this is what I have,
Camber: Designed to be + 1-1/2 degrees at curb weight with no provision for resetting.
Caster: Designed to be + 4 degress at curb weight with no provision for resetting.
Toe-in (total) for resetting 1/8" to 1/4".
for checking 1/16" to 5/16".

I hope I was of some help. Good luck!






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1971 C10 swb stepside 350/700R4/3.73posi

Top please

Aussie?