Blast Cabinets
Hello All,
While going through 7dee2 (Brett)'s 67 Camaro Build I was looking at his blast cabinet build, I thought I'd like to get some input from those that have one and have maybe modified them. I have the same unit from Harbor Freight and have added some updates. I added the bottom abrasive pickup kit, the foot pedal kit, a new/better nozzle, and a shop vac. My compressor is a Craftsman 6 1/2 Hp 60 Gal vertical tank, its 240 V, max pressure 125 psi, 15 scfm @ 40 psi and 11 1/2 scfm @ 90 psi. It does do "ok" blasting sometimes but not always. I have glass beads in it now and I had some black aluminum oxide in it before I updated it. I really want it to remove rust better and faster than it does now. One of the problems i have with it is the glass beads do not settle very well back in to bottom, they stay on the upper edges and stay on the sides of the "funnel" so I have to shake it or beat on it to get it to settle a bit. the other day I saw an electric motor that vibrates it to help. Does anyone have any ideas to help this cabinet to work better? Also what's the best blast media you use? Thanks for your help!!! |
Re: Blast Cabinets
The glass beads are a very fine abrasive... if you want to remove rust better, then get sand..obviously the coarser grit the better..I run 80 and 120 in mine
At work, we use glass beads, we cut some teflon sheets to fit the sides to help it slide down better..moisture also creates problems..so we hang decadent bags under the screen |
Re: Blast Cabinets
2 Attachment(s)
For rust removal, I use Aluminum Oxide.
It's the Longest-lasting media for fast, effective rust removal. Here is a list of other abrasives and their application. Glass Bead/Works best on softer metals like aluminum, brass and die-cast. Walnut Shells/Remove paint, carbon deposits from ferrous metal, clean internal parts. Ground Glass Media Free 40/70 Mesh Non-hazardous silica substitute to use for light rust removal. Silicon Carbide/Sharp edges for heavy rust removal, welding/brazing prep, glass etching. Rust Remover Bicarb Soda w/ 10% 70 Grit Alum Oxide/Most aggressive soda for rust removal; 90% soda, 10% alum. oxide. Now for the media issue not sliding back down, I found a kick drum pedal at a scrap yard one time it works great. You can leave you hands in the gloves and you don't have to knee the cabinet;) I also have a small vibration motor on there. Attachment 2186222 Attachment 2186224 |
Re: Blast Cabinets
Love the kick pedal idea..!!..
Where'd you get the vibrator motor...that looks nice..I found a few, but they were on the big size,,,,or 12v |
Re: Blast Cabinets
Mine is a little different.
This is a link for example. Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/16431955818...2Cchnl%3Dmkcid |
Re: Blast Cabinets
Thanks..!
I found the one in your pic above..looks like under $45 ..not bad |
Re: Blast Cabinets
Hello again All, I changed out the glass beads with some black iron oxide and man what a difference!!!! I was able to blast my control arms much faster!!! I think the only problem I have now it the piece of crap compressor! Thanks for your help!!!!
|
Re: Blast Cabinets
Here is another upgrade I have.
This is a simple short U tube video below. There are tons of videos on this same upgrade. It can also be done with Pipe & ball valve from the Box stores. |
Re: Blast Cabinets
Well today I tore down my Air Compressor and rebuilt it. The cylinders and the seal rings were SHOT!!! I just started it up and it went from 0 psi to 125 psi in less than 5 mins!!! Now I think my blasters gunna kick butt!!!! Yipee!!!!
|
Re: Blast Cabinets
Quote:
|
Re: Blast Cabinets
Steel grit also works very well, but if you don't do some "protecting" of the inner cabinet, it will eat through the cabinet also. Rust removal is no issue for steel grit - comes in various grades also, and honestly in my experience lasts far longer than anything else.
|
Re: Blast Cabinets
Quote:
I use a stainless steel Sheild behind what I am blasting. if I use Steel shot. With your Idea I may cut some sheets at work to protect my cabinet.:metal: |
Re: Blast Cabinets
So there is a difference between grit, and shot - you are probably aware. Shot is like small bb's, grit is just that, sharp and angular. They both leave very differing surface prep's once blasted.
We use thick mud flap style rubber material to line the inside of our cabinet at work, usually 3/8". |
Re: Blast Cabinets
Quote:
Eastwood has some good info on different media. Link: https://www.eastwood.com/abrasive-blasting.html?cat=104 The old guy I send some of my Bigger stuff to, He has Ground up Light switch covers for media. I just have the simple stuff. Walnut shell, Steel shot and alum. ox:lol::lol: |
Re: Blast Cabinets
when I went to pick up some more silica sand for my cabinet blaster, the yard guy asked me what I was using it for. when I told him he asked if I have a cabinet full of powder. I said, well, yeah it doesn't seem to last long. he recommended garnet for cabinet blasters because it doesn't shatter upon the first impact and make powder. I switched over for a bag to test it out. it works better for sure and partially, i think, because it takes more impacts before powdering up
|
Re: Blast Cabinets
Silica sand isn't good for your lungs either. lot of people use it because it is cheap and easy go get but the dust off it is what causes silicosis.
Media for sand blast cabinets has improved greatly in the past 20 or so years as so many people have blast cabinets at home. As far as compressors go, it takes a pretty good and big compressor to keep up with any sand blast cabinet with the amount of air they use. |
Re: Blast Cabinets
Some good information. thanks
|
Re: Blast Cabinets
+1 on the Garnet and it doesn't absorb moisture
Just regulate your air pressure so it doesn't hit too hard and shatter the media. |
Re: Blast Cabinets
Quote:
Thanks in advance. |
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:29 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com