Ignition switch question
 

I have recently been having some problems with starting my truck. It is dead as in no clicking or other sound when I turn the key. I have cleaned the terminals on the battery and the battery is charged. I believe I have tracked it down to the ignition switch as I reached under and wiggled the wires on the back of the switch and it then started right up.

I was able to get the ignition out of the bezel (thank you for previous posts), but I cannot detatch the plastic connector from the switch. It looks as it if it should slide apart when pressing in the two tabs, but it is still tight. I don't want to break anything pulling it apart as I can look at how it should go back together when reassembling.


So I have a few questions.

1) How do I pull those two parts apart?
2) Is this a common problem with ignition switches?
3) Should I replace the ignition switch and the plastic connector where the wires plug in?

Thanks for any advice.

Re: Ignition switch question
 

Some of them can be very hard to get apart. You are correct in your thinking on pushing in the tabs and pulling it apart. I have used a small angled pick to get under the connector and pry up on it. Just work your way around it.

If the connector has been hot and is melted where the wires plug into the switch that will make it worse.

No need to replace the connector unless it shows obvious signs of a problem when you get it off.

LockDoc

Re: Ignition switch question
 

Thank You!

Re: Ignition switch question
 

Help!! Back to the drawing board!!

I got a new ignition switch and new ignition cylinder. However, when I went to install it I found the back of the switch is completely different. The new part has a plastic part that is connected to the metal piece. It has spade connectors. The switch I took off has contact points, but no spades. I looked at the wiring under the dash and the wiring appears to be hardwired into the plastic piece that plugs into the switch. It obviously will not plug into spades.

Is there another connector that I need to add to the back of the new part so it plugs into the spades? Do I need to pull all the wires out of the old switch backing to plug into the spades? I am at a loss of what to do.

Any help is appreciated.

Re: Ignition switch question
 

New switch looks right. Looks like you pryed the plastic piece from the metal part on old switch. That isn’t the way it was supposed to come apart. Separate the plastic piece like the one on the new switch from the other piece where the wires go in. The spades you see on new switch are there. You just separated in the wrong place. The actual plug is the piece where you see the wires going in.

Re: Ignition switch question
 

Thanks for the insight oneperfectrun. I now have it back together correctly thanks to your insight. I pulled the plastic part off in the wrong place on my first attempt.


Unfortunately, replacing the ignition did not resolve my problem. I have power in the ON and ACC position, but it still will not start when the key goes to the start position.


Anyone have ideas why I have no power in the start position?

Re: Ignition switch question
 

Glad you got it swapped out. Sorry I can’t help on your other problem.

Re: Ignition switch question
 

If everything else that should be on when the key is on works, your next step is to follow the Start circuit wiring. Take a test light and see if you have power to the neutral safety switch. Turn the key to start and check for power on both sides of that fat purple wire. Power on neither means that that switch isn't getting power, and the fault lies between the ignition switch and the neutral safety switch (rare). Power on one side and not on the other means that either the switch is not adjusted properly or is toast. If you have power on both sides of the switch when the key is turned to the "start" position, move downstream to the starter and check if there is power there. If there is, at least you solenoid is toast. If you have no power there (rare) the wire is broken.

Report back with results for these preliminary test cases.

Re: Ignition switch question
 

Well.... I have been down a few rabbit trails on this problem and I think it is finally tracked down to the neutral safety switch as the main culprit. I found some other possibly contributing issues along the way which took me on some of the rabbit trails.

Yes. I know it took awhile to solve, but I am not an expert (just enough to make me spend too much time and money) and other things in life take priority over a hobby truck.

Re: Ignition switch question
 

I have a 1967 C10 original V8 four speed that is doing the same thing. Intermittently starts just fine, other times dead with the key turned to the start position. Does have current to the switch (so it run just fine). Installed new switch and checked the wires to the solenoid and coil -OK.
Am thinking it may be the solenoid or starter, but not sure how to test.
Any ideas? Thanks.

Re: Ignition switch question
 

Read this thread. ray_mcavoy has some good insight. May be the issue you are dealing with.

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=769320