POR-15 failure
 

My wife and I are doing a frame-off, and tried Por-15 on the frame. We used the entire product line, we followed instructions, and this stuff is: not adhering, not chemical resistant, not chip proof, not uniform in color appearance, and is peeling off in sheets.
I am not getting any responce from Por-15 support people. I refuse to call anybody at NAPA or any other store, as I bought this stuff from Por-15, not NAPA.
I am also very dissappointed with Por-15's exhaust coating system. Same symptoms, stuff peels off, plus, rust is forming on my new duals!
At this time, I urge members of this board to try other products for rust proofing, my wife and I are. We have to sand blast this stuff off, first, though.
steve

Sorry to hear that Shade. I asked about it in a few local shops and they told me they don't carry it. One guy said it wasn't all that good. But I've never used it. I use something called Rustmort, you can actually see the chemical reaction (bubbling) happen. But I think it works differently than POR-15.

bummer... I've used it under my cab after replacing cab braces and floor panels.... that was 6 years ago and it's still looking good....

maybe you got a bad batch, but probably not for both products...

A buddy of mine did his bronco frame with POR-15 and he had the same problems, it peeled of in big sheets. He called the company and they said it might have been the way he dried off the frame (he used an air compressor) they said it might have left a fine layer of oil on the frame itself. So they replaced everything that he had bought and had it to him within a couple of days (all $125 worth) haven't talked to him since then though to see how it turned out. Call and complain and good luck.

As far as your adhesion problem goes, First I'd like to say that I've been in the autobody business for 15 years painting And can only think of a couple of times I've had any lind of problem that it wasn't technician error. The instructions need to be followed exactly. Failure to do so will result in bad result.
If you or anyone else would like you can e-mail me, tell me your story, and I'd like to help you figure out what went wrong.

"My story"
 

Thanks, wd for responding, are you a Por-15 rep? At any rate, I agree with you, this sounds like an application problem, however the directions were followed exactly. As for the chassis coating, our first application has bonded well, and is very hard to sandblast off. Our second coat mostly flakes off, easily. All of it is easily chipped, all of it veries a lot in color, and all of it does not resist chemicals well. With the chassis, I have concluded that this coating is intended to be applied over rust, and not unrusty steel. I suspect any second coat of Por-15 will not adhere very well. As for chipping easily, I think Por-15, or any future coating, needs a base coat of epoxy primer, which might solve other problems, too.
Now, for the exhaust coating. Por-15 exhaust coating is flat no good. This is NOT an application problem, this IS a lousy product problem. The directions were followed exactly for the exhaust coating. This product just does not work. Period.
I welcome any comments, suggestions, ect for this stuff, as I would love to be able to use it. steve

From what I've read, I'm guessing that you were using the semi gloss Por-15 for your chassis. First on the adhesion, how long did you wait between the first and second coats? The rule of thumb here is "when you can touch the por and you leave your finger print,but none comes off on your finger, then you're ready for your next coat". Any longer or quicker, you've got problems.
Second, As for the variation in color,again with the semi gloss por-15 this is a common problem. If you want a uniform semigloss finish you want to topcoat the por-15 with por's chassiscoat. (which is not sensitive to uv light like all of por's "undercoats".(black,semi,silver,grey).
Por-15 does adhere well to bare steel if you follow the instructions. Cleaning with Marine Clean, using Metal Ready to etch the metal. And NOT using any other sort of "non por-15" preparation products.
On the exhaust coatings, They were developed for Iron manifolds. If you applied them to headers, there is an "alternate method of curing the coating" You are trying to cure the por between 300 and 400 degrees and it is very difficult with headers as they heat up very quickly. So you need to run the motor for a few seconds and let the headers cool off then repeat for a few seconds longer, let them cool...etc etc until the collectors are only left to heat up to the 400 degrees... This is a time consuming, pain in the A$$, but its what you need to do if you're puting this coating on headers.
If this information is not the situation with your problem, or If you'd like to discuss any other problems, Reply here, or E-mail me at: wdz28ss@hotmail.com
I'm really sorry about your mishap. If you havent done anything with your chassis yet, I'd be willing to work with you to get it to the point your trying to achieve with our product. Por-15 does have a money back guarantee on all their products, and being a authorized POR-15 distributor, I can help with your previous purchase with the company,( I will need some information). However if you purchase por again, I'd be willing to "go over the procedure" so that you will have great success with our product.

Should you have any other questions, E-mail me at wdz28ss@hotmail.com, Thanks for your time.

NOW WHAT
 

I was going to use this on my floorboards has a few pin holes and surface rust on the inside under side looks pretty good was going to coat it allso .Don't want to do this more than once and I dam sure don't want to have to try and peel it off and start over.Good luck shadetree and let me know how you came out I want to do mine in the next coupla weeks.:confused:

Now for the real question!


What do we use now?

Are you supposed to put a second coat of POR-15 on? I didn't think that was a good idea. Once the chemical reaction bonds to the metal there is nothing left for the second coat to bond to, thus, it peels off.

I've used POR-15 for 10 years and I like the product. I haven't had any problems with it thusfar. The one big difference is that I haven't tried to put a second coat OVER an existing coat.
I'm still using it on my chassis on my 41 streetrod and I'll continue using it on my 72 C10 as well.

Just my thoughts,

Re: POR-15 failure
 

I am sorry about your results. I about 3 weeks ago applied this to my frame. It looks good but places where I had touched up and got the product on a prior layer looks rough. I figured this was due to me not sanding areas that might get touched a second time.
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Re: POR-15 failure
 

i've used POR15 for over 20 years the only problems i ever had with it i could trace directly back to my poor workmanship and lack of detail. used right it has always held up great looked good and the most durable stuff i've used

Re: POR-15 failure
 

Thats odd, I have used POR on various project over the last 15 years. I have never followed the directions or done a proper prep, usually just wire brush off loose rust and paint chips then slap on a good thick sloppy coat. I have never had it chip or peel. I have used it on floor boards, under side of cabs or car bodies frame rails and such mostly just rusted areas or areas that I wanted to prevent rust. The only thing that I do follow is I store it in the fridge if I am going to store a opened can for any length of time.

Re: POR-15 failure
 

I have used Por-15 on frames, cabs, and engine bays for 10yrs. Like it has been said, while it is still tacky, top coat it. Not after it dries. For top coats I have used Dupont, ppg, and rustoleum. I have had wrincal only when topcoated befor it was tacky or because of too thick I think. No pealing. I use Chasiss Saver now, it is more cheaper and I was told it was made by Ex por company employees. Also make sure you clean the paint from lid groves or you will never get it open again. I use the plastic cling wrap between the lid and can.

Re: POR-15 failure
 

That is a great idea. I have had to cut the lid open a few times because I got it in the lid groove.

Re: POR-15 failure
 

I think the stuff is crap also jmho.

Re: POR-15 failure
 

im on two years on my truck. the only isues i had was where i half assed prepared it while in a rush...

other then that it's fine

Re: POR-15 failure
 

used por-15 on my brand new headers, washed with tsp, from the grocery/hrdwre store and hot water, dried over night, sanded with 240 grit sandpaper applied 1 coat that covered well......peeled in 2 weeks makes the whole engine bay look like a frekn gook machine gunned it. built a few trailers, older camper frames...rusty....sanded lightly to remove loose rust, washed with hot water and tsp and coated with hammerite from the hrdwre store's, great stuff.

Re: POR-15 failure
 

POR 15 is not made for high temp apps....that is why it peeled off. POR 20 is high temp. I have had it on a set of headers for 4 yrs...still looks brand new.

Re: POR-15 failure
 

led, sorry i should have been more clear on that i said por-15 refering to the company i did use por20 heat resistant paint brilliant aluminum coating suggested for headers mannifolds etc. i also coated an older aluminum intake manifold and it didnt peel.

Re: POR-15 failure
 

I've used it on 2 cars, and its been great.


Guys i talk to say use the SEM products now, its better than POR 15. I haven't tried it yet.

Re: POR-15 failure
 

POR = Paint Over Rust

I was told that it is specifically designed to be applied to corroded surfaces, not clean bare metal. This could be part of the problems I have read in this thread.

Re: POR-15 failure
 

intent here is for correct info.
bigblock my peeling was on brand new headers with por-20 which is what the sales rep @ por 15 company recommended im not saying that this will happen to all new headers the photo is the instuctions for preping that includes "cleaned of rust".
btw i used the engine enamel & definately will use it again thanks for the reply