Intake Manifold side gasket installation question
 

Hi. I have a question about applying the side gaskets. I'm using Edelbrock Gasgacinch and according the the video, it says to apply Gasgacinch to the coolant ports of both the Heads and gasket. Why not apply Gasgacinch to the Intake Ports of the Head and gasket as well? Doesn't using a sealer on the intake ports give it the best chance to seal? I'm using the Fel-Pro MS9617 Blue gasket kit. Also, should the dabs of RTV you put in the corners go underneath the very tips of the ends of the side gaskets? Thanks for your time

Re: Intake Manifold side gasket installation question
 

I use Gasgacinch on the head and gasket only. Basically to hold it in place. Then run a 1/4" bead of Permatex "The Right Stuff" on the walls.

Gary

Re: Intake Manifold side gasket installation question
 

Hi, thanks for the reply. On the whole gasket and head, or just the coolant ports of the head and gasket. I'm definitely going to use The Right Stuff for the walls.

Re: Intake Manifold side gasket installation question
 

Threebond 1194 around ports.
semi drying, so it expands n contracts with the parts.

always RTV goop the china wall

Re: Intake Manifold side gasket installation question
 

Hi. Where do I get Threebond 1194?

Re: Intake Manifold side gasket installation question
 

And is that around all ports?

Re: Intake Manifold side gasket installation question
 

water and intake ports, thin layer on both sides of gasket.

Gotta order Threebond 1194

amazon
bikebandit

last time I needed it I got it from Z1
http://www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDet...item=TU53-0395

[ history it replaced yamabond 3 , which was the old go to. Originaly designed for motorcycle case halves, where a paper gasket alone would leake over time from the parts expanding and contracting with heat cycles. ]

Re: Intake Manifold side gasket installation question
 

Around all the ports. Thin layer on gasket and thin layer on head, and then allow to tack up so they stick to each other.

Gary

Re: Intake Manifold side gasket installation question
 

Thanks. What about the side of the gasket that mounts to the intake?

Re: Intake Manifold side gasket installation question
 

Dry...

Gary

Re: Intake Manifold side gasket installation question
 

The Felpro gaskets you are using are made to be installed dry. The teflon coating on the exterior of the gaskets is there to seal any imperfections in the intake or head. Silicone based sealers are not needed.....however if the surface of the head or intake appear severely pitted, a thin layer of silicone may be beneficial. Ask me why...:). I was trained by FelPro representatives in my olden days as a auto parts salesman.....

Re: Intake Manifold side gasket installation question
 

Thanks for the reply. So the coolant ports dry as well? Should the dabs of RTV you put in the corners go underneath the very tips of the ends of the side gaskets? Thanks

Re: Intake Manifold side gasket installation question
 

If the surface around the coolant ports look iffy, from too much corrosion, use a small amount of RTV silicone, absolutely in corners also. Everywhere else dry
Get this thing on the road!!! Can't wait!!!

Re: Intake Manifold side gasket installation question
 

I could just not wait for the Threebond 1194, so I grabbed my Gasgacinch and The Right Stuff and installed my intake manifold tonight. Everything went pretty smoothly and I did not have to move the intake around too much to line up the bolt holes. I did however run into a difficult time getting the proper torque on the two " Hard to get to " bolts next to the carb mount section of the manifold. I bought twelve point intake bolts and the tiny 3/8 box wrench I was using was just not cutting the mustard. So I dug around and found a swivel extension, loosened the bolts in sequence and then re-torqued all the bolts in proper sequence to the desired 30 ft/lbs ( cast iron intake ). I then checked the " China Walls " and The Right Stuff looked like it sealed really well ( thanks for the tip on that one ). I hope to have it all buttoned up and running by this weekend. I'm buying an 80 gallon air compressor from my buddy and need the '59 to be running to do that ;)
So how does everything I did sound to you guys

Re: Intake Manifold side gasket installation question
 

+1

Re: Intake Manifold side gasket installation question
 

The head and intake were not severely pitted. I decided just to stick with the Gasgacinch to hold the manifold gasket in place and then use the Right Stuff for the China Walls.

Re: Intake Manifold side gasket installation question
 

A little late but on intakes I just use the permatex spray gasket stuff on the head and gasket. Let it tack then drop her in place. Once set it won't slide and comes off real easy if need be. As others said goop the crap out of the block ends and a dab where the gasket meats the block end. Should have no problems. I have never torqued an intake manifold. Rods, mains, and head bolts yes, but everything else just gets a good and tight.

Re: Intake Manifold side gasket installation question
 

Hi. Four posts up I mentioned I had to loosen and then re-torque the bolts because I was having difficulty getting to two of the bolts. What do you think about me loosening and then re-torqing those bolts? I didn't screw up anything by doing that, did I?

Re: Intake Manifold side gasket installation question
 

You are probably fine. Generally there is still pressure exerted on the gasket from the other bolts to keep the gasket in place. I would worry more if it were a steel shim gasket. A little different but on the Cummins motor I played with you loosened the head bolts one at a time to retorque them. On a new head gasket you install in steps, let it sit a few hours, break loose then retorque. Run motor up to temp, shut off and let cool. Repeat the retorque procedure. No issues with leakage there so I wouldnt sweat an intake gasket. Only one of those I would worry about is the vortec manifolds and only because they dont have the 4 center bolts and the neoprene gasket is prone to breaking. Ironically it is reusable.

Re: Intake Manifold side gasket installation question
 

just me, but if the FSM lists a torque then I use that torque. the intent is to ensure the manifold doesn't warp and clamping force is *even* across the face to prevent leaks.

about a 3/16 bead on the ends is all that's needed, along with a 1/4 or so "goober" at the ends to seal to the intake gasket. more just ends up in the cam valley. taking a wet finger and putting a nice tuckpoint on the outside after you torque the manifold shows you know what you're doing :)

I generally don't re-torque an intake because you can disturb the valley seals. I wouldn't sweat it either way.

Re: Intake Manifold side gasket installation question
 

Dead on but it also depends on the intake. My last eddy performer RPM takes a little more for the end gap on the block. It has also been prone to getting a leak at the sealer also. Only manifold that I have owned that had an issue and neither it or the heads have been milled.

Re: Intake Manifold side gasket installation question
 

68gold has it right. no sealants on a composition gasket except where the rubber meets. i use spray trim adhesive just to hold them in place. sealant around a water jacket is for the steel gaskets (like oldsmobile)

torque using an extension and/or swivel is useless. there are torque specs for everything, including glove box screws.

Re: Intake Manifold side gasket installation question
 

That is the only reason I use Gasgacinch... it's not for sealing but for holding everything in place.

Gary

Re: Intake Manifold side gasket installation question
 

if "everything" is machined new dry should be fine but if ya ever had your lower intake port after time start sucking oil from the valley at WOT, you wont want to do that job twice again.......

Re: Intake Manifold side gasket installation question
 

Something I didn't know about until my engine builder friend told me to do, on the engine he built for me in the early 80's....

Aluminum intakes need to be retorqued one or more times after initial installation. Aluminum expands and contracts way more than iron. After the first few times the engine has warmed up to temp, and cooled back down, the gaskets get compressed, but upon cooling down, leaves the bolts loose, not the same w/ iron.

So after running engine through it's heating/cooling cycle, maybe 10-12 times check torque ONLY after engine has cooled ALL the way back down to the temp of the air...

So post 18 the loosening/tightening shouldn't have been a problem. Hope you didn't cut that divider out...:)