Originally Posted by Captainfab (Post 7325828)

Finding the correct core size is not the problem. I can get the '64-'66 heater core no problem, just have to have the one end switched. I went to our last radiator shop in town today to find that they have closed for good. Today was their last day. Now I have to drive 35 miles each way, to the next closest radiator shop.

I was hoping that by now someone would be making the correct heater core with the correct tubes, without having the added expense of having to have one end switched.

Originally Posted by ncoonen (Post 7401850)

I have the deluxe heater box with factory air in my '65 C30. It has the under hood heater box on the right in the picture below. I am trying to R and R the heater core but I cannot remove the top from the heater box. I have removed all the sheet metal screws and the five bolts holding the warm air manifold to the firewall. Do I need to remove the whole assembly and split it open on the workbench? The under-dash situation inside the truck is more complex and cluttered because of the factory air so it would be nice not to have to disassemble all that to get to the mounting studs behind the blower motor.

Advice? Thanks!...ned.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1318521440

Originally Posted by jbgroby (Post 5772123)

on Classic indus. IMHO, your paying extra for a name, unless they can show the part is made other than where LMC gets them from (possible but doubtful). I've bought over a thoughsand dollars of stuff from LMC and have not got a bum deal yet.

Originally Posted by tc64 (Post 7431662)

went through the same confusing mystery,decided the only thing that mystery arm does is control the amount of water flowing through the core thereby adjusting the temp level of the air being blown in.Since i will probably run the heater on max when i do,I've decided to forget about that lever completely.

Originally Posted by aerotruk63 (Post 4952753)

[B][I]


1963 Chevrolet


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Q.../image0-18.jpg

Originally Posted by lakeroadster (Post 3903726)

Mark,

I would love to axe the under hood heater also. A couple questions for ya:
1.0 With the economy heater do you have problems with the windshield fogging over on rainy humid days?
2.0 Am I correct in assuming the economy heater doesn't provide any outside fresh air mixture into the heating mix?

Wonder why a guy couldn't cut into the cowl vent from inside the truck, thus pulling fresh air in without having the heater on the firewall?

You know me, always ready to cut something up! :chop:

Originally Posted by markeb01 (Post 3904596)

Hi John, 1.0 - the recirculating heater isn't up to the standards of a modern fresh air heater, but it does heat the cab up well enough to be comfortable in sub freezing weather. Living in Idaho the lowest temp I experienced was about 17 below zero, but the coldest I generally drove in was closer zero - 10 degrees above. At those temperatures the heater needed to be on full defrost setting and high speed on the fan motor. 95% of the time it would keep the windshield completely clear, and when the center started to fog I just cracked the driver side vent window and that did the trick. Sounds unpleasant in those temps but wasn't bad with the cab warm (and wearing a watch cap). In temperatures closer to 30-40, medium fan and 50/50 blend between defrost/floor was enough.

In high humidity/heavy rain the heater has a harder time keeping the center completely clear, but again cracking the vent window and running the fan on high speed eliminates the fogging. Perhaps the 1960 fresh air heater I had never worked correctly, but it didn't provide any noticeable improvement in defrosting ability over the economy heater. My truck came stock with no heater, and a deluxe fresh air model was the first heater I installed. It chronically smelled like antifreeze in the cab, even though everything (core/seals/gaskets/hoses) in the system were new and there were no detectable leaks. The smell is why I got rid of the fresh air heater, and the econo heater has never had an odor problem - so lack of stink was more important to me than heater/defroster capacity, and I was driving 36 miles each way every day for 9 years.

2.0 - Correct there is no fresh air intake with the recirculating heater. If a person was creative enough with sheetmetal ;) I suppose you could install a fresh air valve on the face of the firewall plenum inside the cab and route this into a recirculating heater with a little fab work. If it were on the bottom of the plenum it would probably leak water when raining. This could in turn connect to a completely different heater, although I'm not sure what would be suitable.

In my search for a heater that would actually function in a northwest winter, I tried:

1. Fresh air 1960 oem unit (smelled).
2. Old Air A/C-heater system (completely ineffective).
3. An electric van auxilliary heater (useless).
4. A Vintage Air street rod heater (inadequate heat and direction control).
5. A Flexalite Mojave heater (decent heat, no direction control).

Of the last 4, the only one that did any good at all was the Mojave heater mounted on the floor between the seats. It kept my feet warm and nothing else.

The econo heater doesn't provide performance of a modern heater/defroster, but it worked well enough to drive the truck everyday in the winter, and now that it's retired to hobby duty I'm glad to have it instead of the fresh air breadbox on the firewall. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

Originally Posted by markeb01 (Post 3905112)

Back when I commuted every day I'd always change my 160 degree summer thermostat to a 190 version for the winter months. Having 30 degree warmer coolant made a big difference. Didn't think to mention that.

Originally Posted by Oscar73 (Post 7431628)

PS - and how do you cut down a plastic blower fan? Seems like you'd just create some kind of bloomin' onion thing when the fan started spinning, since the blades would only be supported on one end...