Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

A.....3rd Clutch Feed. .110"
B.....2nd Clutch Feed. .073"-.076"
C.....3rd Exhaust. .093"
G.....3-2. .076"-.086" OK if already bigger.
E......4th Clutch Feed. .110"

https://i.imgur.com/mrJuzhA.jpg

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Your new rings look to be cast, Yellow paint marks on the edges equals "Off Shore" JUNK!

It's tough to tell cast apart from steel.....I run the Trans Go 700 PHK Pump Rings in EVERY 700/200/4L60E build! Best $8 dollars you will ever spend!

Reuse your old support, Run the shiny side toward the O-Ring.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Thanks! I've got the transgo unbreakable rings on the way.

I REALLY appreciate the info!

EDIT:

I emailed the seller of my pump kit, asking about whether the rings were steel or cast iron. Here is their reply, which makes me want to laugh and cry at the same time.

The lesson here is to only buy known reputable parts from known reputable sellers.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

I'm betting this one had a trans-go spring between the 2nd Acc piston and the separator plate - given the pic below from when I opened it up back in August.

Your above comment didn't soak into my head until after I'd driven out the 2nd Accumulator pin and staked the ball from the Sonnax Pinless kit into the housing. I didn't think it would be a good idea to try and go back, so I went ahead with the Sonnax Pinless piston and the original unbroken spring, as per Sonnax's '94-Later instructions (spring in the Accumulator body, then Piston with dome toward the separator plate). Do you see any issues with that setup?

FWIW, the Trans-Go springs are a tight fit into that Sonnax piston, no wonder they can break.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

clinebarger, thanks a million for this wealth of knowledge. Having installed many trans kits in the past, and not been happy with the results, I was able to decipher what to use where and how to set it up all in one shot... Thanks to this topic. Just finished building my first 383 and dove right into the transmission. Upshifts, downshifts, etc, it all works perfectly. Im still grinning ear to ear from the first test drive 2 hours ago!

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Clinebager great thread! i am looking for a 2500rpm convertor any recamendations?

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Unfortunately, Clinebarger is no longer around. I have a 700r4 and purchased an FTI unit in the range you are looking for. I like it.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Not super happy with the b&m tork master 2400. Feels completely stock.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Old thread, but easy question. The output shaft has 2 holes in which you can align the speedo gear. How do you know which one to use? Thanks in advance!

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Found a video online, it goes in the most forward hole. Posting just in case anyone else runs into this. Got everything back together and the speedo is dead on!

Re: 700R4 build thread-Line bias valve
 

Looking for some ideas on how to correct line pressure flutter in 3rd or 4th over 1/2 throttle. Gauge bounces from 125-200PSI rapidly. I see it was recommended not to block the line bias valve, I'm confident that is the cause of my pressure problem.
Trans is in a 68 C2500, 4:11 gears and worn out 327. I have a 355 ready to go in but want the trans 100% 1st.
Valve body modifications were the transgo SK700 kit. I went back and reduced the boost valve from .500 to the next one down, .475 I believe. This improved shift feel but did not fix the line pressure flutter.
TV cable geometry is set up properly. The trans works/shifts perfect, without a pressure gauge you would never know there was a problem.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Hello all, wanted to see what your thoughts are regarding 700R4 - 4L60 - 4L60E servo pins.

Option 1: The 84-87 pins had (2) teflon rings to seal the servo pin.
Attachment 2104460


Option 2: In 87 there was a factory update and following this they did not include the shaft seals.
Attachment 2104461


Option 3: Sonnax has a servo pin that has (2) teflon seals and an o-ring.
Attachment 2104462


Note, there are also different lengths but I'm not really focused on length rather the seals (2 ring tip, 3 ring tip and HD band)

Attachment 2104464

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Which do you think is better? Do you think the more seals the better, no seals are required, all original 84-87 w/ only 2 seals??? Transmission experts input requested!

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

I started using the Sonnax Pin exclusively a couple years back as I was welding extra length on stock pins just about everytime when using OE 4L60E Borg Warner Bands.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Clinebarger, you're still on the forum! Man, I owe you a beer or dinner or something. Your writeup gave me the info needed to get into rebuilding 700R4 & 4L60 transmissions. I really approciate the feedback, I kinda feel like I got a reply back from a legend :)

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Hello, just wondering what everyone's opinion is on the 3-4 accumulator setup.

Common consensus seems to be either: block the case passage with a plug or install a super stiff spring.

I really don't like permanently modifying the case, so this time I stacked two pistons and some shims in the 3-4 cup and set the clearance at 10-16 thousandths of play. What are your thoughts???

Attachment 2106257

Attachment 2106258

Attachment 2106259

Attachment 2106260

Attachment 2106261

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

I was finishing up the rebuild on the '92 4L60 and I wanted to annotate some oddities of the 1992 version.

1) The governor doesn't have a upper mount for a governor clip
Attachment 2106396

2) A second boss is present on the passenger side, assuming it's for mounting electrical connections
Attachment 2106397

3) There's a metal vent tube instead of the plastic one
Attachment 2106398

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Finally got the old truck some road miles, the 3-4 accumulator stackup works great. It shifts quick, firm but not too much. All in all pretty darn good, hopefully it will save the 2-4 band for some miles later on down the road!

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

I was using the B&M governor recalibration kit and the clip came off. I'm really OCD about them and triple check 'em before installing, this being the second time it's happened. I got tired of it and decided to try some 2-56 all thread and nylon look nuts. It turned out really well, no worries about the governor now. It only cost 5.00 per set of rods and nuts.

Attachment 2119513

Attachment 2119514

Attachment 2119515

Attachment 2119516

Attachment 2119517

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

I pull 3-4 700-R4's a month I've only seen 5 of those clips in 10 years

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Hello fellow truck go-ers, I haven't seen a lot of info on the 700R4 pump, it's operation and how the pressures (1+2, 3+4 and R) are actually regulated. I though I'd share some info with the community.

Pressure Regulator Valve Operation: The further inward the Pressure Regulator Valve is in the pump, the higher the volume and pressure. Conversely the further out the pressures regulator valve is, the less pressure. When the pressure regulator valve gets enough line pressure against it pushing outward, the valve allows fluid to pass and press against the pump slide tab and reduce pump pressure. Pressure on the pump slide tab causes the slide to push against the slide spring, then move the slide and as a result decrease pump output and pressure. So the more compressed the slide spring the less the pressure. The boost valves effect line pressure and ramp, but total max pressure of pump is set by pressure relief valve. At idle the TV valve is at lowest pull level, meaning low TV pressure, the Pressure Regulator Valve is outward and the pump is producing less line pressure. Modulated TV (TV), 3-4, 1-2 and Rev boost valves effect pressure regulator valve movement inward and result in different line pressure increase for each gear selection.

Attachment 2258262

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

After the my latest 700R4 rebuild I noticed 1, 2 and R had high pressures of up to 300 PSI. 3 & 4 were around 200 when full throttle accelerating, pretty normal.

Yes the TV cable is adjusted correctly, I've rebuild several 700R4-4L60s for vehicles, friends and family.

I tried swapping out the Transgo green spring for a TCI purple and it made no change, the pump pressure valve spring doesn't make that much pressure difference.

Since it was 1,2 & R I figured I'd take a stab at the Reverse Low boost VALVE (RBV) . I was already running a stock style .296 valve.

Since it's a 4WD I'm going to spend time in manual first and second, so I've got to get the pressure back to reasonable, from 300 to around 200 plus.

So to reduce the pressure in 1,2 & R I took .045 off the RBV piston, the nub that faces the spring.

To my surprise it actually worked, it dropped the pressure by about 50 psi at max acceleration.

I'm taking that as about 1 psi per thou off the RBV piston, really glad I mounted a transmission pressure guge and keep an eye on when driving around.

I'm going to drive it for a while and see how the pressures look under different conditions and trans temperatures, I might still take a little more off.

Just wanted to pass on what I learned from the experience.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Oh, if you order a replacement Boost Valve or Reverse Low Boost Valve get a bright light, some magnification glasses and give them a once over. Manufacturers ship the piston and sleeve loose in the same package and 50% of the time they bang together causing damage and preventing free movement which can kill clutches and pumps.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

This looks like fun, rebuilding your own transmission. But it wouldn't be fun if it didn't work right. Or if it died after 8 months of use.

I'll do it someday when I have a backup truck.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Cool thread . . .