$15 throwdown door panel rehab...
 

The door panels on my '77 were awful looking. Now, a few hours and $15 later, they're slightly less than awful! For those playing at home, I used Plastikote vinyl paint in Dark Red, which was a verrrrry close match for the original color (I didn't paint the area behind the door panel bag). I used 1 1/2 cans at about $5 a can, and a can of Bulldog(?) adhesion promoter from Pep Boys. There's nothing you can do about the tops that disintegrate from the sun, but at least they're a solid red color again.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y21...odoorpanel.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y21...doorpanel2.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y21...doorpanel3.jpg

Looks much better. It is a wonder what a little paint can do.

looks like new good job

i was wondering, the top of mine are scratched up, could you use bondo on that? would it work very good, i was thinking about doing the same thing as he did to mine

Bondo? No! I would just sand the scratches out. Never heard of anyone using bondo on plastic. In fact, I am not really sure about sanding now that I think about it. Not really sure. Bondo is for metal. Fiberglass might work. Not really sure about that eather. Maby someone on here will know for sure.

You can actually use fiberglass first, then bondo in the imperfections. I hate working with both fiberglass and bondo! A lot of custom dashes and door panels are made that way.

That a BIG improvement Earl! :metal:

82c10-If you sand all the dead plastic off, you can use a skim coat of bondo. The problem is when you sand the bondo smooth it won't look right because the door panel is textured. I think it would be almost impossible to try to match the factory texture again.

You might try sanding the whole thing and spray on some rocker guard to get an even texture, then dye it over the rocker guard. It won't have the same grain as stock, but at least it will have an even texture.... :confused:

I scrounged the swap meet until I found a decent pair of door panels. They were originally blue, but that wasn't an issue. I used laquer thinner and stripped all of the old dye off. Then Roger at Stoked Out sprayed them for me along with the rest of the interior trim. Now everything looks new again....

Well, keep in mind they're on this truck:

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y21...7Silverado.jpg

I don't think it will be in a magazine anytime soon! :lol:

That probably would work on a vehicle I cared enough to put some time into.

:bling2:

now you'll have shiny new lookin door panes in the beater huh? :lol:

they look alot better since you painted them....in my experience though, the painted ones always seem to either chip or wear off, no matter how good you sand and prep them

Yeah, I figure it'll fall off...I think this truck is getting a rattle-can camo paint job in the near future anyway!

That's a beauty there Earl. I can just see it all done up in camo. You gonna keep the work boxes or lighten the load a little?

Will that paint rub off on my are and clothes in the summer?

The pipe rack is already off, and as a matter of fact, I'm trying to get the rest of the stuff out today. The truck sat for about 5 years, and there's about 8-10 inches of pine needles, cones, dirt, and trash in the bed!

If it weren't for the peeling parts of the door panel where the actual panel comes apart, then no. It's more like a spray dye than a paint. My preference is SEM dye if you're trying to do the very best job, but it's more expensive, and is hard to get locally. I wouldn't be afraid to spray the seats red, and ride in the truck in white shorts. It won't come off any more than the factory dye will, if you prep it properly.

No, not if you prep the panels properly. The key to having proper adhesion with vinyl dye is to get the panels really, really clean.

You should start with soapy water and scrub them with a brush. Rinse and repeat. If you aren't stripping old dye off, like I did lightly sand any areas that are scratched. Follow that with a scotch brite pad on the entire panel. Wash with soapy water, rinse and repeat.

Once the panel is completely dry, use a good coat of adhesion promoter. This step is "very" important. Follow the directions on the can closely. After the adhesion promoter, dye them and your done. Yes it will scratch if your not careful, but it won't fall off in chunks.... :cool:

Brandon it looks like we posted at the same time. I agree SEMS is the best you can get in a rattle can. If you are trying to match the whole interior use an automotive paint brand like PPG. Of course you will need a paint gun to spray that.

Post some progress pics when you "get er done".... :cool:

Ken;

Did you reuse the chrome band that goes around the woodgrained insert or did you have new ones? If you did reuse the band, how did you deal with the mounting pegs that where broken off?

Doug

Doug,

My original door panels were in excellent shape, including the trim and insert. I dropped one of them and busted the corner off of it. That was why I had to find a replacement.

I think whoever restored my truck had replaced the trim and inserts. They were in very good condition with no tabs broken..... :cool:

Well, I got the boxes off this morning. It's over 90 degrees, and if there was any more humidity, it'd be raining. I'm taking a break before I heat stroke! Anyone want a 8hp gas-powered compressor? Free? OK, I'll pay you $20 to take it! And I'll throw in a 3.6 straight six and auto trans out of a Jag (see my signature).

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y21...doboxesoff.jpg