Why isn't my truck starting?!?!!
 

Hey guys, I hope I can get a quick reply on here....anyways, some of you may know that I've pulled out my tired 400 and dropped in a warmed up 355 in it's place....anyways, it's in, hooked up, bolted up, ready to go....other than, it won't start, it doesn't fire or turn over at all...I've got power to the dash, the seat belt buzzer works, my guages work, my radio works, but something isn't right w/ the starter....I've tried starting it in all the gears, and neutral and park, still nothing, someone said it may be the neutral safety switch....is this possible?? I ended up pulling out the tranny as well, but I don't recall any other wires asside from my kick down being attached to it....this is frustrating! I haven't been able to drive it for two months! and now that everything is ready, something probably minor is holding me up! damn it!!!! I hope someone may have a clue, thanks!

The neutral safety switch is, I believe. down at the base of the steering column. In the swap, were you whackin' away at any wires?

Have you got 12 volts at the distributor when trying to srart it?



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Mike

1985 Chevy C-10
Mike's 73-87 Chevy Pickup Site

Ummm, I don't think we were wackin away at any wires under the column, so perhaps the safety switch is out of the question....as for the dist. I'm not sure if I do or not...would that keep the starter from spinning at all??? cause it's not doing anything at all.....

I just got done having a similar problem with my 83. I went to start it and nothing. I would turn over but never start. I put in a rebuilt 350 and th350 and made sure that I put on a new started and put the distributor in the right way. I also replaced the power and ground cables that went to the battery. I occasionally have a problem where it wont turn over, but that is when it is not totally in Park. Hope this helps a some.

Jerr

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New Project

• 72 Blazer 4WD 307/3 spd, PS, PB, Posi (Current Project)
• 83 Chevy SWB Rebuit 350/TH-350 with shift kit, buckets (daily driver)

Well that is all and good but he said it isn't turning over. So that tells me you might have your starter wires swapped! look and see if you purple wire is the one close to the block try that first ill check in time to time to see if you got it going if not you can call me ill help you out
RICK


1.800.741.1678 ext 500
tech2@chevyduty.com

alright...which post is my purple wire supposed to be on? the one closest or furthest from the block?? right now I have it on the one FARTHEST from the block...and I'm still getting nothing, earlier today, I swapped it over to the one closest to the block, but didn't tighten it down real tight (just hand tight, till I couldn't turn the nut anymore) and then got in to see if it would do anything, well I just bumped it, and it sounded as if it had barely turned over, in all the excitement, I jumped out to go tell my buddy, and we came back and I tightened it down, then I tried to start it and got nothing again...also, it was smoking or steaming off the pos. bat cable when I was trying it....so, I'm gonna cut off the corroded end of the neg. bat. cable tonight, and reinstall it tommorow and try to clean off where I'm grounding it, so maybe something...unless you all can think of any other thing it may be...?

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'81 3/4 ton Silverado Warmed up 355
TH400 w/shift kit
Corporate 14 bolt w/ 3.73s

It goes on the inside sounds like to have a ground problem now. Clean off all the paint and run a strap from your frame to you motor. Then check to make sure your cables are in good shape. Charge the battery and it should turn over. The key here is to make sure all the paint is off where the ground straps bolt on. Let me know how it worked for you

RICK
tech dept
1.816.741.8029 ext 500 www.chevyduty.com

If there was smoke coming from the battery post or cable you have a high resistance connection (corroded). Like Rick from Chevy Duty said make sure everyting is clean and you are getting a good gnd to the engine block. To eliminate the + cable take one lead of your jumper cables and go from the big wire on your starter to the + side of the battery. You can do the same thing for the gnd cable. Could be your battery is just weak or your starter is dragging. Haven't had good luck with rebuilt starters lately. The last one I bought, they checked three before I left the store!

to further your diagnosis....with a voltmeter.... have someone crank the engine and take a voltage reading ON THE POS STUD itself, not the terminal (holding your negative probe on the neg STUD). Then take the same reading on the terminal not the stud. Voltage difference? No? do the same on the negative post (holding the pos probe on the pos STUD), then the terminal. Difference? voltage drops mean bad connections. If no voltage drop....do the same test at the starter. first on the positive terminal, then the pos stud (with the neg probe on the neg bat STUD). if nothing, hold your neg probe on the starter and try it (with the pos probe on the pos STUD). Then on the block and try it. The bottom line......Ohm's law proves amperage will increase to overcome a voltage loss, hence smoking wires and burned up parts. generally, the point of voltage drop will produce the visual signs like smoke and melting. Find that voltage drop and you'll fix the prob. Incidentally...if your voltage crashes right on the bat posts you have a weak or shorted battery. 8 or 9 volts is fairly common during cranking...lower than that you definitely have a problem. Sustained voltage during high demand depends on battery rating. An 8-D battery might fall to 11 volts but a honda battery will fall to 4 volts. It's all respective. just a sidenote.

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C.Jackson
Juneau, Alaska
Dba AC-DC Electrical and Equipment Repair
'81 crew cab dually..5 ton gear, air, 10sp, 3208..if it aint a CAT it must be a dog
'87 K-5..454..9"..38.5's (the wife's)
'72 C-10..427 tall..FAST (the wife's)
'49 Dodge 5 window..413 max wedge..VERY FAST
'79 Dodge one ton..440..15"..38.5's
'84 S-10..350 auto (the wife's)