The Old Yeller Resurrection Project
**NOTE** I realize there are several "Old Yellers" on this board. I asked if we could change her name, but after 47 years she adamantly refused.
Hi all, thought I would introduce my new 1970 C-10 LWB project. Well, not exactly new.... A little history: My grandpa bought this truck when I was just a little kid, and I have many memories tagging along with him in the passenger seat. Later, my Dad took ownership, where we pulled our family fifth-wheel on many camping trips. When I got my license it was handed down to me. I loved driving it throughout high school, but had to find something more economical once college started. Since then it's been in my parent's backyard in Northern CA, waiting for another stab at glory. Well, that time has finally come... http://i.imgur.com/flfsW9al.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Z8tpNUOl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/ZDkak6Zl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/UvN43Gnl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/iYcgWKhl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/FBcC1aVl.jpg?1 It's making the great voyage this week from Northern CA down here to San Diego. I think she will enjoy the warmer weather. The "To-Do" List (in no particular order): 1) Shortbed conversion via Brothers template (needs new sides anyways, as you can see) 2) Engine tune-up (that is, if it starts after 12 years). 3) Interior 4) Paint I'm really excited and looking forward to sharing this adventure with everyone! |
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Im in to see another Old Yeller .
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Welcome to San Diego!
https://i.imgur.com/6nIvzmcl.jpg |
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It's a 350, she'll start after sitting that long! My 72 drove home after 11 years in a Virginia cow barn. Beautiful truck, I'm looking forward to keeping up with this build
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For the record, here's what I did in preparation: 1) changed the oil/filter 2) pulled the plugs, shot 1/2 oz of Marvels Mystery Oil into each cylinder. 3) pulled the valve covers, spread some more MMO over the valve train. 4) siphoned out the old gas, added 5 gallons of fresh fuel. 5) hit the carb with some carb cleaner (didn't pull it apart though) 6) installed inline fuel filter upstream from carb. Its had a day or so to marinate, so today I'll hookup the battery turn it over. If no problems, maybe throw the plugs back in and see if she'll fire. |
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Sounds like you got it. I'd give her whirl and see what she does!
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Good luck on the rebuild, neighbor! :)
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I am no specialist as far as carbs go! I rebuilt mine with limited results. I swapped it out for a Holley 670 Street Avenger. I'd be happy to try to help if you like.
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https://i.imgur.com/MCfV5dKl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/OwJ0QhYl.jpg Am I correct that the 1406 is the 600 cfm version? If this carb gives me problems, maybe I'm better off getting a Holley Avenger instead of a rebuild kit. |
Re: The Old Yeller Resurrection Project
Of the E-carb and Avenger carbs, neither is better than other, wroking with what you have will be cheaper, and hopefully work out.The 1406 is the 600 cfm E carb that EVERY autozone and HO'Reilly's carries on hand, the box on display in these stores has a 1406 in it!!!
Auto tranny fluid is good to put in cylinders also. If it was mine, I'd try to rotate the engine by hand, either via that harmonic balance bolt or somehow turning the flywheel, first. Doing this BEFORE you reinstall the plugs, to be safe. I hope it works out well!!! 71's and 72's are awesome, no need to convert to disc brakes, it's already done!!! Ford didn't get it right until 75...LOL Carry ON!!! |
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Moving onto brakes, I pulled the rear drums off last night (after an hour of pulling and prying) and it was not a lovely sight; a very rusty habitat for spiders. Even one of the nails had rusted off and released the spring.
https://i.imgur.com/epKPmOal.jpg So... decision time! do I... 1) Rebuild the existing drums (new drums, rotors, wheel cylinders, etc.)? 2) Consider rear disc brakes? Another consideration at this point is whether I want to convert to a 5-lug rear axles. I'm finding the selection of 6-lug wheels very limited. Disc brakes in the front is a no-brainer, and I believe I can go with either 5 or 6 lug with that conversion. Any thoughts? I'm leaning towards keeping the rear drums, swapping to disc in the front and staying with 6 lugs. |
Re: The Old Yeller Resurrection Project
Rear disc brakes help stopping, but are not really needed, my opinion, strongly!
You can buy all the parts under the drum from a parts store. If you completely rebuild your rear brakes, now with the 6 lug drums, when converting to 5 lug the only thing you would have to do to the rear brakes is replace the drum with a 5 holer, may have to adjust brake shoes slightly, but that's all. Both my 67 and 68 are inoperational at the moment, however when both get back on the road they will both be 5 lug and front disc equipped. NO DOUBT! I do like the 6 lug front conversion deal. However I am not that familiar with the exact parts used. The 71 and newer disc brake pickups have larger inner, and out bearings, I consider this to be a great improvement also. If the 6 lug conversion comes with new spindles and the larger bearings, that would be a no brainer. I have been collection 5 lug rally wheels for a while, so, I will be doing the 5 lug deal regardless... When you buy the bearings at a parts store, you can buy the bearing and race in a set. The disc break bearing sets are the numbers 5 and 3. The brand I sold, when I sold parts way back were A3 and A5, which were the part number designations for the sets. The sets for the drum brakes were A6 and A2, both smaller than the disc sets. Moser had been selling a pair of stock replacement axles for $260.00. I'm not sure if that price is still good. The axles are much stronger than stock units. You would have to tell them what you are doing, as far as converting to 5 lug. It may be best to measure your old ones also. Supposedly the 70 drum brakes axles are longer than all the earlier drum brake axles, beware. What intake is that??? |
Re: The Old Yeller Resurrection Project
Well, for my money, I'd go with disc brakes. I just like them better than dealing with drum brakes. Will the stop better? Probably not a whole lot, of course depending on rotor size and how pistons are in the calipers you elect to go with.
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There's a lot more headaches when going with rear disc. The emergency brake is one, if you do go rear disc DO NOT leave the emergency brake out!!!
Then you need residual valves in the brakes line(s), cat remember why... IF you decide on rear disc, find someone that has the emergency brake inside the rotor. Many of the O.E. folks have brake shoes inside the rotor for the emergency brake, and run a simple hydraulic caliper for the service brake, that's the only way to go, none of that ratcheting caliper crap.... |
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If he does choose to go with front and rear disc, then he will need an appropriate disc/disc proportioning valve, or something similar to the adjustable Wilwood unit. |
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I have a power booster from Summit and Wilwood master cylinder on my truck, if that helps.
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Rear brakes: done. This website was a great reference:http://www.pbase.com/nufsed/drumbrake
http://i.imgur.com/6o92jFQl.jpg |
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Moving onto the front now...
http://i.imgur.com/ZYP9dHJl.jpg Front drums were in pretty good shape, too bad because it's getting gutted! http://i.imgur.com/UQAJGI0l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/kxEqWAUl.jpg As you can see, 40 years of grime and dirt came falling out when I hit it with the impact gun. Luckily, left side has been pretty straightforward, but man, that upper ball joint is a bear. I ground down the rivets, but can't get a good swing with a hole-punch to drive them out. Maybe a drill? |
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Try to center punch the rivet head in the middle of the head. Get 3-4 new good drill bits. Get the bits in various sizes, starting at about 3/16", open up hole with next bigger size, till it's big enough...Use some kind of lubricant on the drill bits when drilling.
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So I took a gamble on this Harbor Freight electric impact gun and it's been a lifesaver. A pneumatic setup would be optimal, but I must say that it has been impressive dismantling the front end of this truck!
http://i.imgur.com/b65Cd8ul.jpg |
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