Did I find the correct front crossmember for my C20 to C10 swap
 

Hi, I’ve been looking for a complete c10 crossmember here in SoCal for over a year that’s not an arm & a leg. Think I’ve found it.

Unfortunately I was not dressed for greasy dirt, so these are best pics I have of the lower a-arms since I believe those are the issue...hope I got the right pics,

Here’s a pic of the left and right where the mount to x-member. Can anyone tell from these pics if I got the correct crossmember identified. FYI, it’s about $180/200 at pick a part since I’m leaving the spindles out behind. I do have an option for a 90 Suburban crossmember, in one piece (discs to disc) for $250 from wrecking yard, bonus is no labor.

What do you all think, is this a c10 from an 86? I never trust pick-a-part, there’re a bunch of arrogant a-holes but they’re the only “deal” around here in so cal.

Let me know. Pick my part or go for the suburban in one piece for $250. Thanks

Re: Did I find the correct front crossmember for my C20 to C10 swap
 

Looks like the right one to me since it has the later way of mounting the LCA shafts. If you go with the pull a part one, be cautious with the engine. Once you take the whole crossmember out, that engine might want to come down with it.
Are you leaving the spindles because you already have some?

Re: Did I find the correct front crossmember for my C20 to C10 swap
 

If that has disc brakes on it it should be 71- 72....73- 87 had large washers on front and back of control arm rods.

Re: Did I find the correct front crossmember for my C20 to C10 swap
 

Spindles are $60 with core, rotors are $30 with core and calipers are $45 with core. That makes it a laughable price versus the suburban option. What’d you think?

Re: Did I find the correct front crossmember for my C20 to C10 swap
 

Wasn’t focused on brakes, going to go lowering spindles and stock power discs on all 4. Thoughts?

Re: Did I find the correct front crossmember for my C20 to C10 swap
 

That looks to be a '71-'72 C10 front suspension, assuming it is 5 lug. But nonetheless it will work for converting a C20 to a C10. Be aware that either the lower or upper ball joint is specific to those 2 years only. I don't remember which one since I never deal with those.

Re: Did I find the correct front crossmember for my C20 to C10 swap
 

Yeah, if you're going with drop spindles anyways, I would leave those behind at that price.

Also, I totally missed that you were going 20 to 10. Any crossmember from a 1/2 ton 63-87 truck will work for what you want to do. You'll just need to get the ball joints that match your spindles

Re: Did I find the correct front crossmember for my C20 to C10 swap
 

Hey CaptianFab, it’s either a 6 or 8lug, don’t remember......does that eliminate the 71/72 only issue “gone”?. I also try to avoid those single/two year configurations. Thanks.

Re: Did I find the correct front crossmember for my C20 to C10 swap
 

71-87 C10 is 5-lug.

What's in those images looks like it has the initial C10 'HD' rubber-lined steel bushing that threads into the a-arm (63-72).
73-87 C10 trucks/Burbs had 'press in' car style bushings.
73-87 C20/C30 had the HD rubber-lined steel bushings that thread into the a-arms like the 63-72 trucks but are 8-lug.

Re: Did I find the correct front crossmember for my C20 to C10 swap
 

So, wing Captain Obvious ....stay away from this Thx

Re: Did I find the correct front crossmember for my C20 to C10 swap
 

I'd use the early HD bushings before the later style C10 press-in fat rubber pieces if it's a 'sport' truck. If it's being built as a driver, the press-in fat rubber style will offer more cushion.