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1986 K10 shorty revival
Well, I got this truck in a trade and it was originally a 2WD cab and now it's sitting on a shortbox 4x4 frame and should have dual tanks (wiring is there...mostly anyway....) but previous owner just put a single tank box.
Anyway, original color was grey with black interior-the interior when I got it was trashed for the most part and this truck had a lot of electrical gremlins for me to sort out. It has a GM Goodwrench 350 with miles unknown, a TH350 trans (which is toast) and a 73-77 vintage 205 TC and 3.73 gears. My plan is for a complete interior restore and I'm going with blue interior since I have a lot of it left over from my 90 Suburban build and eventually the truck will be sprayed in GM Arctic White which is a 98 S10 color-absolutely the brighest white GM made. I'm updating the stereo, converting to serpentine, electric fan, sound deadening the interior, swapping the front clip over to a 90 K5 front end which I have sitting ready to go and converting to electric mirrors-I have both the conversion van style and a few sets of them from a 91 Suburban so I'll swap them around and see what looks better on th etruck-I have several sets of doors with them on so it's no biggie. I just finished organizing my truck parts and thought I'd take a couple pics before it gets any further along-more pics to come too-I've had it a month now and I've already got most of the interior ready to go back in. http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/a...AwODkuanBn.jpg http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/a...AwOTAuanBn.jpg |
Re: 1986 K10 shorty revival
Door panels look great. Did you have to dye them?
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Re: 1986 K10 shorty revival
Yeah....they were the correct blue to.begin with but the drivers side was just a little faded on the top and both were dirty-the trucks I pulled them from were kinda rough. I basically decided whatever color GM dashpad I could find that wasn't cracked was going to be the interior color I go with-funny that I found another blue one-my 90 Suburban I'm nearly done with also has blue interior....lol, so I had most of the e,xtra interior stuff I would need for the pickup.
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Re: 1986 K10 shorty revival
Looks like they turned out really good. What did you use to dye them. I've got a set the same color I would like to dye.
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Re: 1986 K10 shorty revival
Ii have a local paint store custom mix the vinyl dye for older interiors. I have them match it to a nice piece and they take into account the factory finish and the various resins to give you different gloss finishes, etc. So I shoot for the surface finish that gives you a factory finish which if I remember correctly is a medium gloss resin. Cans are about $35 each and two cans is usually enough to do one pickup interior. I restore gbody interiors so trucks are no different for me. I would always rather restore original GM pieces that buy aftermarket.
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Re: 1986 K10 shorty revival
Found a 91 Suburban in the local wrecking yard that donated its front bucket seats and console for my 86 K10 project. I also nabbed the door panel inserts and I plan to trim them to fit the Silverado door panels. The lower door carpet will also be used.
http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/a...AxMTAuanBn.jpg When you opt to put 'Burban buckets in a pickup, you have to make sure you grab the inner seat mounts and I cut a few extra rear bench seat track ends from other donor trucks in the yard so I can cut/weld the correct ends to the bucket seat ones-the Suburban ones angle downward where the truck benchseat angle upwards-this is the only difference in the floors as far as the seats are concerned-then of course you have to add a hole or weld a 10mm nut underneath the floorboard for the inner rear bucket seat track. I also grabbed the bracket that you need for the rear of the console too. The seats were pretty dirty but showed very little wear so i cleaned/scrubbed them with a nylon bristle tire scrubrush using water with a combination of DAWN dishsoap and COMET, then sprayed Blue Coral upholstery cleaner. They turned out almost like new. I am picky about some things like I wanted the seat pattern to match the door panel inserts so I opted to NOT buy the cheasy bowtie bench seat from a local shop that sells repro truck parts and recovered bench seats. I seen this Suburban in the boneyard and went to town pullin some stuff! |
Re: 1986 K10 shorty revival
Here's my DD 1990 Suburban-I'm kinda of used to having a clean interior so now my truck will be a carbon copy almost-lol. Don't pay attention to the speaker placement-the sound system is a work in progress on the 'Burban at the moment. The truck will be identical except for the door panel inserts/pull straps.
http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/a...AxMTEuanBn.jpg |
Re: 1986 K10 shorty revival
Here's a pic of the Suburban door panel insert trimmed to fit the Silverado door panel sitting behind the other door panel to show the subtle difference in the insert pattern-I don't want the Silverado pattern if I install the Suburban bucket seats.
http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/a...AxMTIuanBn.jpg top pic is the Suburban insert-bottom pic is the Silverado one. |
Re: 1986 K10 shorty revival
Nice man. Looking really good.
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Re: 1986 K10 shorty revival
Looking real good man. I appreciate your attention to details. In my opinion, that is what makes or breaks a build.
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Re: 1986 K10 shorty revival
I appreaciate the compliment. For me, I try to focus on things that I would notice if I were to buy a truck or car that was redone....stuff like mismatched material drive me crazy....or things like door seals that don't seal, body lines that are off because previous owner didn't want to rebuild or replace the door hinge bushings, etc. stuff like that.
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Re: 1986 K10 shorty revival
Well yesterday I got home from work and decided to mock up the Suburban buckets and console in my truck-I dont know what anybody has done when doing this swap, but after carefully analyzing my options-I decided the best route was to use both the LH and RH bench seat tracks on each of the buckets because of the way the rear seat frames between the two are shaped-the Suburban ones curve down while the truck floorpan curves up in that area. I had thought about cutting/welded but decided against it. I had to redrill a few holes on the bottoms of the bucket seat frame, add a small hole for the spring tension for the adjusting back/forth and drill/add a hole in the actual truck seat brackets themselves. I measured and mounted one of the inner mounts and temporarily bolt the RH seat down to get a location for the rear inner seatframe bolt location too. I still need to cut off about 2" from the front of the seat bracket frames since the truck bench ones are slightly longer than the bucket ones.
I degreased and painted the frames with self-etching primer and then dark grey gloss paint-bolt heads I painted semi-gloss black. http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/a...AxMTMuanBn.jpg http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/a...AxMTQuanBn.jpg http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/a...AxMTYuanBn.jpg http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/a...AxMTcuanBn.jpg http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/a...AxMTguanBn.jpg http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/a...AxMjAuanBn.jpg hopefully after this weekend I'll have the other bucket seat in along with the console and inner seatbelts....rigthnow I have the AC firewall box off for a complete overhaul and reseal-then I'll seal the floor, sound deaden it and get my new carpet ordered. |
Re: 1986 K10 shorty revival
Ok.....got to put some pics up but today's mission was to restore the AC firewall box. I scored a super low mileage assembly from the pick n pull from a 75 High Sierra....also grabbed the radio suppressor wire since my 86 don't have it...might help the sound system out for when the blower motor is on...idk.....we'll see.
So I cleaned out the evap core, cleaned and resealed the housing halves together and to the firewall.....installed new heater core, New blower relay, New resistor. Now I need to order an inner fender before going forward. Also scored all the factory underhood jack stuff....yes! Posted via Mobile Device |
Re: 1986 K10 shorty revival
Interior looks awesome, I may be getting some blue interior pieces that I either want to make burgundy or black, hope they look as good as yours.
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Re: 1986 K10 shorty revival
Thanks! Im basically duplicating what my 90 Suburban has for interior only I'm modding what I need since the pickup floors are a bit different up front. I scored dually rear anti-sway bar that will most likely find it's way on the Burb....I'll have to get some "under construction" shots for ya'll to see-the pickup was a basket case of a truck when I got it-still is kinda....lol.
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Re: 1986 K10 shorty revival
I told ya-this truck is partially dis-mantled....lol
http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/a...AxMzAuanBn.jpg http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/a...AxMzEuanBn.jpg http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/a...AxMzMuanBn.jpg http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/a...AxMzIuanBn.jpg I was kinda inthe middle of a serpentine swap when I decided to get into the AC firewall enclosure-the cab developed a small water leak that I had to get to the bottom of. That and I had the electric fan setup mocked up and mostly installed but ran out of stock on one of my terminals I use for my harnesses-so that held me up. Then I pulled the trans pan to discover that I am in dire need of an overhaul-thus I'm letting go of a few of my tach clusters....the list just goes on....lol |
Re: 1986 K10 shorty revival
Been hectic lately-got a lot of parts for the truck but havent had the time-maybe this Saturday-gotta a lot to do to it too! Anyway, the other day it rained all day long and after it stopped I checked the inside of the truck on the floor-NO WATER! So even with the hood popped up a little I have eliminated the water leak it seems-so it was the entire firewall AC box seal that was the culprit-it particular the foam seal around the heater core inlet/oulet tubes that had shrunk/deteriorated to the point that water would get right past them and saturate the firewall sound deadening jute backing and leak onto the floor. Now it's on to the 88-91 front end conversion for ole 'Shorty! I have the rest of my seat/console install yet to come too-I have pics just gotta upload/post them!
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Re: 1986 K10 shorty revival
Looks real good. I like the grey on the serpentine brackets. Keep up the good work.
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Re: 1986 K10 shorty revival
Thanks.its kinda a mess undehood right now....I have a lot of uncobbling to do-I thought about going AC delete but changed my mind-I am redoing the AC, stock radiator is mocked up with a Crown Victoria dual speed fan using the stock radiator support brackets, I'm upgrading the charging system-also discovered the PO cut the wires going to the washer fluid reservoir pump because they put an early 80's LH front fender on and the truck and the spacing for the correct reservoir w/pump is off-just a lot of stupid stuff like that.
I also am running a complete 90 Suburban front clip w/trans cooler and fan as well as the factory engine oil cooler. I can't even believe somebody drove this truck like it was when I first got it....it was such a turd. Posted via Mobile Device |
Re: 1986 K10 shorty revival
I've been busy working on an 80 Monte I got awhile back and I've spent more time lately on my truck after neglecting it for a few months-hopefully this photobucket slideshow link will work....
http://s975.photobucket.com/user/gbo...tbox%20Project |
Re: 1986 K10 shorty revival
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Re: 1986 K10 shorty revival
It wasnt hard-make sure you use fabric scissors though-they have a serraded edge that makes cutting easier. The inserts themselves are only glued at the edges on the backside of the plastic and the back of the insert is a foam type material so after careful trimming, and several dry testfits, I used 3M headliner adhesive spray on the backing, waited about 5 minutes to get tacky, then applied the trimmed Suburban insert over the pickup backing-it fastened in place right away-pay extra attention to trimming at the top corners at the door handle trim cover-if you trim too much of the corner away and you run the risk of the corners fraying out over time and you'll have to redo it again.
The hardest part was waiting until I had a suitable doorpanel before even starting-I got lucky though and after dyeing one LH door panel, I found another one in a K5 that was dirty but no rot and had all of it's grain on the top still! My previous panel was worn smooth and I won't buy LMC replacement door panels-they're junk imo. I should mention too that I cut my own door panel insulation trim sections too to be glued on the backsides of the panels for a quieter interior and it helps seal the cabin better. I also reinstall a foam seal along the bottom of the door panels on the back in the groove that held an OEM sealing strip-I just replicate what GM did only I use better materials-stuff like that you don't find in catalogs. I'll post pics of those once I finish them-I have the lower sealing strips on but have yet to glue the panel insulation in place just yet-I'm on the hunt for a clean LH door and fender-again, I only use GM stuff so I'm willing to wait for the right parts...heck I bet I have enough blue interior pieces to build 2 more interiors after redoing my Suburban and now this truck....! lol |
Re: 1986 K10 shorty revival
http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/a...psa24f5caf.jpg
So yeah, these are the final door panels with the 2nd LH panel which turned out to be 100% perfect and that was amazing since the Blazer was a complete rusted turd that it came out of! The only pieces I was not able to find either nice used or NOS was the long silver door panel trim pieces-those I did have to buy from LMC but hey...what can ya do? |
Re: 1986 K10 shorty revival
Wow! You did a very nice job on those. What brand of dye did you use on those. They look pretty dang nice. If the drivers door map pocket wasn't loose you would almost think they was new.
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Re: 1986 K10 shorty revival
There was another thing that annoyed me while refinishing the inside of the firewall-in particular the firewall pad. I had to remove pretty much everything and rebuild the entire underdash climate control case because previous owner was a complete nimrod trying to replace the heater core which he failed to do so it leaked over time and saturated the original padding-there are hinges for the blend doors which have rods that need to be pulled so that the two halves can be taken apart-well, previous owner didnt do that-result? broken hinge attachment at theblend door so it won't open....and the threaded rod was loose because the plastic snap in bushing that secures it was cracked-not to mention all the sealing foam strips were worn away to nothing. After pulling three complete junkyard units out I was able to restore one good, complete one.
Anyway, when it came time to order the firewall pad, I seen a company called Brothers also sells truck parts similar to LMC so I took a chance and ordered what appears to be their only option for 81-87 pickups. The pre-cut holes didn't align very well with the firewall for one and some were omitted altogther! I had to cut my own holes for the cruise control hose/wiring, as well as the wiring for the dual tanks which exit out almost in the middle below the windshield on the firewall. Even the precut opening they provide for the steering column was not right-I had to trim that also. Out of everything I've done on this truck so far, the firewall padding was the biggest PITA! |
Re: 1986 K10 shorty revival
For the dye, I don't use the SEM stuff-there is a local paint shop that among other things, mixes custom vinyl interior paint. My door panels are the original blue color but I simply "fogged" them to freshen them up-I believe they use DuPont paint for interior spray dyes-on my can label it reads:
C8792J Code: 24CN Color: DK BLUE use 304S vinyl resin for low gloss Year: 1987 SHADED I basically took in a nice, clean untouched kick panel for them to scan and he suggested (as always-he's done a lot of interior dyes for me and they've all been perfect) to use a low gloss resin so they look factory when dry and not too glossy. Then, my cleaning process to remove all grime and prep for paint is to use a combination of hot water and Comet to clean the plastic surface-with a thorough cleaning, plastic primer is not required-the color adhesion is in the dye solvents themselves. I have restored a lot of gbody interiors so I am pretty experienced with my dyeing skills...lol. Attention to detail is the key. I try never to do complete color changes-that's just asking for trouble-I may dye it if it's close-like using red panels to dye brown, for example. Since my interior pieces were all blue to begin with, it took me 2 cans at a cost of $36 to freshen up the interior trim. |
Re: 1986 K10 shorty revival
Nice work! I used a lot of Suburban parts and never thought about trimming the door panel inserts.
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Re: 1986 K10 shorty revival
Have you had bed experiences with SEM? If I have to touch up any of my stuff that is what we was thinking about using. I have never dyed anything myself. When "fogging" are you meaning just a light layer spayed on. If you can post up a pic of front of the can so I can look into it. I would be interested in your process after cleaning and spraying it on. Is there anything else that you do after spraying?
Gotta love those G-bodies. I have a 79 Cutlass that I have had since high school. That has been 21 years now. How time flies. |
Re: 1986 K10 shorty revival
I've got a few pics uploading to photobucket...I'll post them here in a few minutes. After a mist about 3 or 4 light coats on the pieces, I let them sit for about two weeks and let them fully dry-or evaporate out the solvents before handling them at all. Then, you have to be mindful of not using anythign solvent or wax based to clean them-a damp soft cloth is all you should use to clean or dust off your dyed interior plastic-never use any kind of armor all, etc.
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Re: 1986 K10 shorty revival
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Re: 1986 K10 shorty revival
http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps6471ec64.jpg
http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps022f6eb8.jpg here's a pic of the blend door hinge attachment that is the weak link in the design-once epoxied, it should never break. |
Re: 1986 K10 shorty revival
http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps6471ec64.jpg
Here's a pic of the dye I used for my interior...house brand can but I think DuPont paint mix. |
Re: 1986 K10 shorty revival
http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps3b2c3267.jpg
http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps815b8a07.jpg For those who want to use a factory style GM aux. engine oil cooler like this, you will most likely need to replace the seals and gaskets in both the lines and the engine oil pad adpater block so you need to pick up a Fel-Pro #ES72671 from your neighborhood parts store-it has what you need for both the V8 and V6 engines....it's about $10 or so....but you no want any oil leaky leaky in your driveway! This set was donated by a generous 1990 Suburban chillin out in one of my favorite boneyards. It mounts on the trucks just like it did in the Burb...easy-peasy. Soon I'll have the trans cooler w/fan that the same Burban also kindly gave up...pics coming soon on that one. |
Re: 1986 K10 shorty revival
Well I went to the 'yard and scored a crazy nice cluster bezel surround that while I hate to cut em up, I have to modify it for my Delco CD player-also found both lower fender splash guards for my pickup-courtesy of an 89 'Burban.
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Re: 1986 K10 shorty revival
So, I had a brake job to do and then change out the fuel pump in my DD 1995 Buick Roadmaster wagon today before i could play around with my Shorty....so I thought today would be a good day to pull the crappy OE fender off since I need to replace it along with the drivers door. I already bought aftermarket inner fenders and prepped/undercoated them a month back or so-and, this gave me the opportunity to inspect the drivers side lower cowl area for any signs of rust-none were to be found I'm glad to say! As you check these pics out keep in mind rust wise this truck is above average for what you normally find here in the midwest! So, I merely scrubbed the areas dry, sprayed some 3M undercoating in the rust prone spots and then proceeded to install my inner fender. There's a lot I do prior to bolting a new inner back on-I wirebrush, etch prime then paint all fasteners, then, I spray undercoated all over the protruding threads of the fasteners so rust can't start there either. I even cleaned the plastic lower splash guards before re-installing. I'm on the hunt or rust free OEM fender and door for the LH side at the moment so here's some pics of todays progress:
http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps066b171f.jpg http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps278bc1cd.jpg http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps5ac4d394.jpg Then after cleaning they get undercoated.... http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps33e48c0e.jpg http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps45746595.jpg splash guard installed....probably what saved the floor supports! Gresat upgrade for older trucks! http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/a...pse0db3542.jpg Undercoated hardware...once dry, it'll match the rest of the undercoated inner fender....I also seam-seal and undercoat the gaps of the bolt mounting locations to keep water out of those areas to eliminate rusting out from behind the inner fender where they bolt to the cowl brace. http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps371f3bdc.jpg This is the outermost bolt location for the LH inner fender-after undercoating the 15mm bolt head, I snuck in-between the inner fender and cowl brace to completely coat the protruding threads and nut to keep water off the bare threads-this also helps keep rust at bay. Knowing where all these sneaky areas and how they are prone to rusting where everythigng else on a truck seems nice is the key to keeping the body in good shape for years to come. How many times have you seen an otherwise rust free truck except for the inner fender bolt locations....where there are big gaping rust holes because water got behind them? This is how I seal the rust out.... http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/a...pse92e6827.jpg So that's it for now....I'll post up pics of the fender/door install then hopefully carpet and a completely new interior all finished! That will be this weeks project. |
Re: 1986 K10 shorty revival
Been slacking a bit on moving forward.....spent some time gathering parts for my 1980 Monte build lately. But, I have carpet for the truck but have been hesitant about installing it since I've been pulling my hair out trying to figure out where a tiny water leak is coming from-then today after about two weeks of fretting I finally found it! Inside the wiper linkage cavity there is a seamsealed section that extends across the whole front of the truck....well, the damn OE seam seal had cracked open about 2" and it was letting water get by and leak slightly inside the truck and it was coming from just above and around the steering column area. Since its real tuff getting in there to dig out old sealer and apply new, I decided to wirebrush by hand the area where its cracked and spraying a very liberal amount of 3M undercoating to it-that should take care of the leak....now I can go about finishing the interior!
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Re: 1986 K10 shorty revival
Thought I'd throw a few misc. pics up-here's some of the serpentine bracket set I'm using-the motor is goin into another project but the bracket kit is the same-I've got several setup like this on the parts shelf....and, pics of the electric fan setup I designed for my use with a Motorcraft 2-speed 4500 CFM fan.
http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/P1010946.jpg http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/P1010945.jpg http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/a...psfc0793d3.jpg |
Re: 1986 K10 shorty revival
Here's a couple pics of the Crown Victoria fan I installed on my truck-it's rated @ 4000-4400 CFM or so on high speed so I have it wired to the 3-speed harness I designed so now I have a nice, progressive electric fan which should prove superior to the mech. clutch type fan from before. I did need to trim about 1/2" off the shroud for clearance but with this massive integrated shroud it has, airflow is ridiculous!
http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps92f45499.jpg Here's a pic of the thermostat housing I'm using-it had 2 ported vacuum switch locations which now serve as my low and medium temp switches to trigger 2 of the 3 speeds for my electric fan-the third is a high speed bypass for when I turn the AC on. http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/a...psd6bcb0a9.jpg This system is protected by 50-amp MIDI style HD fuse and the whole relay setup only has 6 connections to make! Clean and easy! |
Re: 1986 K10 shorty revival
Well, today between two different salvage yards I managed to score nice LH and RH power mirrors from some Gladiator conversion vans. I wasn't sure if I wanted plain stainless mirrors (stock), the black 1991 style power mirrors (which would mean changing doors out) or the van style which are the same as the stock mirrors but have a curve towards the door a little more. I'll get some pics later....kinda dark out right now. I separated the power mirror harness from the rest of a spare power accessory harness I had stored away.....slightly different coded wires and connector ends but I can splice it to look factory. Weird that the mirrors only require a 3-amp inline fuse.....
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Re: 1986 K10 shorty revival
So I tried to keep a small budget with the transfer case and trans.....BUT, it appears the forward drive clutches in the TH350 are trashed. 205 t-case works well but the tranny won't go into any forward gear....had some grey clutch disc material in the pan when I inspected it but I guess it wasn't as good.internally as I was hoping. So, I'll post updated pics once I track down a 4x4 TH400 trans....if I have to pull it again, a stout one is going in its place!
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