Lowering and Towing with a Dually
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Well I finally found me a single cab dually that I've been on the search for. I picked up a 1985 C30, it was painted Prowler Orange Metallic back in 1995. Needs a little TLC (both rockers, inner and outer) and then some electrical work. Might be making a build thread soon...
So with all that said, I've always wanted to pull my 65 C10 with a 80's or 90's dually. I'm wanting to lower it and have done my research, but a few things worry me. I do not want to put air on it; unless it's air lift for a load. I have enough spare stuff now to do that. I really don't want to C-Notch it, although that seem's to be the only option. So has anyone done a simple BellTech shackle kit and drop spindles, and towed with it? I've also thought about doing the leaf spring removal but afraid of sag if the overload spring is out. I'm new to the leaf spring world so share some knowledge PLEASE... To entise you here is my new dually and what will be behind it! |
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If your going to tow and lower it you really want to consider the helper bags. Otherwise I don't know 1tons well enough to give more advice. Sweet looking trucks though!
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Any idea anyone how much of a drop removing the overload would give? Could it potentially create any sag? I do not want to do a flip kit, I've watched a few rear ends flip up when under load. Not a fun fix on the highway. haha |
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On my C20 Camper special I got almost a 2" drop. What you have to do is measure the overload pack to determine drop since different packs will be different thickness.
You won't get sag unless your Running heavy all the time. On my C20 before mods it took something like 2500 pounds to sag the springs 1 inch. After mods it was closer to 750 for 1 inch. But it rode better, and helper bags would of fixed that. Depending on what your goals are a axle flip can be a good mod. For traction, and especially wheel hop it holds a advantage. When I modded my C20 I used long F150 3 inch wide springs i got for free. I had to custom up some frame mounts. So it was flipped axle, and shackle flip. With it I could bomb around dirt roads, and it was quite nice. But C30's have short springs which help control heavy loads better then my longer spring C20 could hope to. Much less the even longer F150 springs i added. A factory C30 rode jerky even compared to my CS C20, and both are not as nice as a heavy duty C10 or light duty C20. So for anything to be better it all depends on the standards to which better is determined. You need to decide what you want the truck to do, and height at which you want it to sit. Then you can determine the best ways to cheat the results to your desires. As for not wanting to notch the frame I get it if your going to work the truck hard. Otherwise notch it, and drop it to the height you sound like you may really want. Just weld in some reinforcement plates. |
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I tow with mine. It's a 6/8 drop with a c-notch, overload spring removed and helper airbags. I don't need much air in the bags with this trailer but it is only about 5,000 pounds loaded up. I find that it gets really bouncy if I have more than 5 psi in the bags.
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Been doing some more reading, and from the sounds of it anything over a 4" drop needs C-Notch, so I'm guessing I may be stuck doing one. I love these big a$$ trucks though. So fun! |
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I now have another tow pig ('99 OBS CC SWB). I purchased a flip kit for this one as well but will add lift shackles to add a little height back into the mix. I'll add an AOL set-up (home built) for trailer duty needs. The math says I should yield a 5/7 drop when all the parts are combined which prob would have worked on my Square as well & been easier. My standard suggestions to C20/C30 owners wanting to do typical bolt-in C-sections: Find someone who does an under bed notch that has more beef to the brackets vs. a Belltech or Western Chassis standard bolt-in c-section.... especially if you keep the leafs & tow. That's a lot of stress on that section of frame for it to only be 2" tall. |
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No help but was this taken this year at the c10 nationals?
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Thanks Scoti for replying, I was awaiting your reply. When I searched for lowering Dually, your name came up a bunch. haha So as of now I'm thinking of doing a simple 3" - 4" drop with helper bags. Should look decent with the Semi wheels that I'll have to sell my kids to purchase. Would've never expected them to be that dang expensive. |
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On my '99, I'm using a bolt-in Belltech c-notch, notching the bed floor supports above the frame rail (they're ~2.25" tall), boxing the inside of the rail, & welding a section of 2x2x.250" wall square tube to the top of the notch. By doing this, my fame rail height will only be <1" different vs unmodified/stock height. It was stressed to me by the engineer that those C-sections that are ~2" rail height 'weak spots' above the axle tubes combined w/towing loads & a leaf spring arrangement (anchor points 2' in front/behind those weak spots) are not a good idea & def not as safe as un-cut engineered rail. The 3-4" drop will look good too. And those semi wheels.... I'll say 'yes' they're a nice addition but just not worth the $$ in the big picture to me. But, it's a personal thing. You can't go to an event & not come across a dozen big Squares or other dually's w/them on. Oooooo…. Wow. The guys not running 22's & still looking good? They're doing something right. I guess my perspective is the semi's/22" deal are like the old Boss 338's/current Billet Specialties Speedways. They were/are everywhere @ shows. Now.... A custom 20/22 set-up on a dually? That would peek my interest. |
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I'd honestly never heard of Lowboy Motorsports, but I reached out to them about a notch, and apparently they do tons of dually stuff. So that's a great start! Thank you for all your knowledge and expertise. |
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I did price out different options on big wheels & that was even more vs. the standard 22" set-ups. Again, I can't justify the investment. I can't run them on mine anyway because I have my rear bags mounted out-board of the frame rails where those big wheels/tires take up space. The bags would have to go inside or under the rails to fit them. I wanted the best stability & built accordingly. |
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First year for me . I left NY Friday mid morning was a spur of the moment road trip . Next year I'm leaving Thursday.
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That’s why you have interference with the pitman arm. |
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You are correct that it is backwards and upside down but that's because belltech machines the steering arm for the tie rod end to be installed like mine is. It's as if the steering arm is too high in relation to the spindle. I will take a look tomorrow and see if flipping that center link will improve it at all. I am afraid my solution is new spindles but we shall see. |
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