Help! Rear pinion seal
1969 C30
My rearend (the truck) is leaking through the front pinion seal. I can't get the nut off to remove the yoke that holds the drive shaft. Is there a trick to getting this nut off, also this nut wouldn't be left handed would it? |
Re: Help! Rear pinion seal
I held the yoke with a pipe wrench, and turned the nut with a breaker bar and socket. You might try a impact wrench and socket on the nut? NO, IT IS NOT LEFT-HANDED! Just real tight. Good luck.
:flag: :gmc: :burnout: |
Re: Help! Rear pinion seal
Thanks Dan, I'll give that a try.
Allen |
Re: Help! Rear pinion seal
I finally got mine apart today after making 4-5 attempts -- I ended up jacking the truck up in the air, and making a wood rod long enought that I could smash the brakes with my foot, and then jam the pedal with the rod to hold the brakes on...
Then I got my 1/2" breaker bar, and half of the handle to my floor jack, and with my leg, I was able to break it loose. I thought something broke when it finally let go, but everything is fine. |
Re: Help! Rear pinion seal
If you have a park brake you could lock that, it should hold. Then use and impact it will work way better than a breaker bar.
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Re: Help! Rear pinion seal
I USED A LARGE IMPACT WRENCH ALSO. CAME RIGHT OFF. :hm: JOHN
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Re: Help! Rear pinion seal
Be sure you tighten it back very tight. Much like it was. That nut is very critical in keeping the wear pattern right on your gear assembly. Too loose and it could allow the pinion to walk into the ring farther than it should be. And if the pinion bearings are worn, overtightening it could pull the pinion back away from the ring effecting it the opposite way. The crush sleeve, inside, IS very difficult to crush (as I learned rebuilding my 12 bolt) but it is possible. Definately use lock tight on the nut when you re-install. And, if possible, get some marking compound and check your wear pattern again. This will, at the very least, give you peace of mind in knowing it is as good as it can be. You can go to Richmond's site and illustrations of incorrect, and correct, wear patterns. It would be much cheaper if you found any issues before you drove the truck. The only way you'll know otherwise is by noise, or broken parts. It's really not that difficult. I was intimidated by rear ends until I dove into mine. Now they really don't scare me anymore. Mine has lasted over 10,000 miles (w/alot of boat towing) with no noise, and no malfunctions. Yet.
Jay |
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