valve adjustment
 

350 sb valve adjustment, everyone has a dfferent opinion Ive been told 1/4, 1/2 turn 3/4 and full turn after zero lash any one know for sure or is there away to tell whats best for yours,

Re: valve adjustment
 

My manual says 3/4, but I have found that is too much in some situations. I go with 1/2 and snug up if they make noise when its running

Re: valve adjustment
 

The reason you have so many opinions is that no two engines are going to have the same type of wear or identical parts. Some require tighter adjustment than others.

You have a standard that the books call out for most vehicles. I adjust mine like BluTrukker mentioned when I install new lifters: remove all lash and turn an additional 1/2 turn. It may vary plus or minus a little.

Re: valve adjustment
 

mine is set at 0 plus a half.. but mine is a 402..thought id throw that out there

Re: valve adjustment
 

I believe if you're building a new engine with tight parts it's gonna be zero lash+1/2 turn. On my old warn out 350 in the 2wd I ended up with zero+3/4 turn. Like these guys said before me it all depends on the engine and who you talk to....

Re: valve adjustment
 

yeah i was told also 3/4 turn is good enough on a 350.

Re: valve adjustment
 

alright noobie here whats 0 lash?

Re: valve adjustment
 

Zero clearance between pushrod and rocker. I spin the pushrod between my fingers as I tighten the rocker down. When you feel some drag and it doesn't spin quite so freely, then you tighten 1/2 turn from there. I'm sure there is a tool for it, but everyone I know goes by feel.

Re: valve adjustment
 

I've got manuals that call for a half a turn and I've got em that call for a full turn...So I split the difference at 3/4 of a turn. It's been working out for us so far.

Re: valve adjustment
 

That usually works however for performance applications the valves call for less of a turn due to the high rpm's you run, let's say 1/4 inch turn for constantly high rpm running engines. If your engine is running a stock combo or mild upgrade 1/2 to 3/4 turn will do you just fine....Sounds like you got it though, just food for thought...

Re: valve adjustment
 

I have used this many times, and it is a no mess way to adjust the valves on your small block Chevy. Read the procedure, and what you are looking for is to be able to turn the push rod with a little resistance.


STATIC ADJUSTMENT

1. says to run the engine. On a new engine I always soak the lifters in oil over night. Then do this
2. With engine in position to fire No. 1 cylinder, adjust the following valves: V6-229 and 262, Exhaust Nos. 1, 5 and 6; Intake Nos. 1, 2 and 3. 6-250 and 292, Exhaust Nos. 1, 3 and 5; Intake Nos. 1, 2 and 4. V8 engines, Exhaust Nos. 1, 3, 4 and 8; Intake Nos. 1, 2, 5 and 7. To properly adjust valves, tighten adjusting nut until all lash is eliminated, then tighten nut the specified additional number of turns. On V8-454 / 7.4L engine, tighten nut 3/4 additional turn from zero lash. On all others, tighten nut one full turn from zero lash.
3. Turn crankshaft one complete revolution, which will bring engine in position to fire cylinders 4(V6) or 6(Inline 6 and V8). With engine in this position, adjust the following valves: V6-229 and 262, Exhaust Nos. 2, 3 and 4; Intake Nos. 4, 5 and 6. 6-250 and 292, Exhaust Nos. 2, 4 and 6; Intake Nos. 3, 5 and 6. V8 engines, Exhaust Nos. 2, 5, 6 and 7; Intake Nos. 3, 4, 6 and 8. When zero lash is obtained, tighten adjusting nuts as specified in step 2.

Re: valve adjustment
 

on my dads mustang all i did was tighten it down snug and it ran perfect..its a 67 mustang with a worn out 79 cougar motor

Re: valve adjustment
 

I think that ford has non-adjustable valvetrain.

Re: valve adjustment
 

There are a number of theories on this and, as many responses have indicated, even the books don't all agree. But one issue, as sflanagan indicated, what your engine is designed to do has a lot to do with the lash. If the engine is designed with higher rpm/horsepower in mind, you want the lash a little "looser". If the engine is designed for lower rpm/torque applications, you want the lash a little "tighter". As mentioned in various responses, a big factor is new parts versus old, etc. Personally, unless it's a well-worn engine, I'm a 1/2 lash kinda guy!

Re: valve adjustment
 

I use the book "How To Rebuild Your Small Block Chevy"
Probably the most used book on the market.Although a little dated now,it's still the single best source of information on small block Chevies.
It calls for 3/4 turn after slight resistance.This is a starting point for me.After starting and warming the engine,I will loosen each(keeping up with the amount I turn the nut)until I hear noise,then re-tighten it till the noise stops.Sometimes it's more,some less.I do this several times on all of them.
On new engines,you may have to do it again later.On worn engines,some lifters may be too weak to ever be quiet!New parts time!
Mike.:chevy: