A few Questions
 

I'm stoked on this new forum!:metal: I am the kind of person that needs to have all the details figured out before I can really start on something, so I have a few unusual, maybe useless, questions:

1. What is the BEST engine mount combo? Price not really deciding factor.

2. How can I do an alternator-only front belt setup?

3. Would an LS3 water pump work on an older 6.0? They have the upper hose outlet on the driver side and I would like to avoid the super long upper hose everyone has to use.

4. What is better: in-line or in-tank fuel pump?

Re: A few Questions
 

I modded my engine mounts and used some adapter plates from ebay. However, if you are doing a 6.0/4l80e and have to get a driveshaft made anyway, I would use the Early Classic Enterprises mounts. They look great and bolt right up. I wish I had used these. As far as the pump goes I recommend the Delco EP381 in tank pump. Works great and is quiet. I am not much help on the alt setup though. Hope it helps.

Re: A few Questions
 

Since your quote says you plan on using a 4L60E, I would go with the simply adapter plates like in the photo below (you don't necessarily need the rubber mounts like in the pic. You can reuse your existing mounts, whichever kind you have). They can be had for between $25 and $45 depending on where you get them. There are also pretty easy to make if you have the means.

Once the PS pump is removed, just measure how long of a belt you will need. Thread a piece of string around the pulleys to get a measurement, then start trying belts in that length.

I can't say for sure on that. I guess the only issue would be how the hose would clear the alt mount. Which makes me think of #2.... if you have any kind of fab skills, do away with the big chunk of aluminum that mounts the alt and PS pump and fab up your own mount.

If this is going in your 67, an in-line pump will work best. The most popular for that is a Walbro 255, although there are many others that will work as well.

Re: A few Questions
 

Wow, you guys are almost like LS info ninjas!:sumo:

I don't have any mounts yet, so I will look into both suggestions.

Also, as far as alternator setups go, I would like to try to get a low mounted one, as long as there is clearance.

As far as trans options, I may go with the 80 just for reliability. I just want to make sure it will fit my low hump cab.

Re: A few Questions
 

For a low mount, look for some of the car mounts.... Camaro, Vette, GTO, etc.

There are several swaps on here with 80's and low humps. Tight, but it works.

Re: A few Questions
 

Wasted income had an aluminum crossflow radiator & he cut a slice half way down, slipped in a piece of aluminum welded it in, moved the upper hose tube to the pass. side.It was a thread about is turbo 6.0.Tried to find the thread but had no luck.
A good friend of mine owns a radiator shop & he said it will make the radiator a "dual pass" & should work fine. I'm gonna try it but I'm not ready yet.
In tank pumps are the only way to go.The fuel keeps the pump cooler than an external + it doesnt have to pull fuel it only has to push it.
hope this helps Mac

Re: A few Questions
 

While they are the preferred pump to use, if he is planning on using his stock fuel tank it would be fairly difficult to install an internal pump into a 67 tank. Not impossible, just not easy.

Re: A few Questions
 

I here ya
I was gonna ad baffles & a better sump to my rear alum. tank for the pump but I think it would just be easier to start from scratch!

Re: A few Questions
 

Not trying to hijack, but I have the aluminum Summit tank mounted under bed with GM 90 ohm sender. How could I modify it to accept in tank pump? Whats a good in tank pump?

Re: A few Questions
 

It's possible that a good TIG welder could modify your tank by welding in a bung that would accept a factory-type sending unit. The biggest problem though might be the depth of the tank -vs- the depth of the sending unit. There might not be enough depth to shorten the sending unit and still have room for the pump and float assembly itself. If you have the ground clearance, and need the extra depth, a sump could be added to the bottom of the tank for the pump to sit down in. That would also help with hard stops and cornering when the fuel level is low too.

If you end up using a factory type pump, the ACDelco EP381 is the perfect pump for this swap. Factory, off the shelf availability at any parts house, and costs less than $70.

Re: A few Questions
 

Glock
couldnt have said it better myself! Chk. this thread http://www.atlinc.com/pdfs/Racing/20...g-web%2021.pdf
this is the direction I'm heading,the bigger blank plates should work if you wanted to lay the pump down flat + they offer pickup scavengers etc.Their tube style senders are pretty slick too but a little pricey.
Chevy dog If your tank has had fuel in it make sure the shop " burns it off" before you do any kind of welding etc.. fuel tends to soak into aluminum

Re: A few Questions
 

ya, plus I have that black foam stuff in the tank, so probably no welding in anything.

Re: A few Questions
 

Am I the only one dumb enough to buy the Muscle Rod Install kit?

Re: A few Questions
 

montez
I think it has to do with each individuals resources & available cash. I've seen guys on here do stuff in a 2 car garage that amazes the hell out of me

Re: A few Questions
 

Yeah I get your point. But my time is more valuable than having to fabricate and test fit until I get it right. Having the truck running in a few days is more worth it to me than the down time that can be created while having to fabricate a bunch of parts to save a couple hundred dollars. I haven't started my swap yet, but I'd rather wait till I have everything in hand and ready to go. Even if it takes a year or to to be able to afford it.

Re: A few Questions
 

I agree but dont take all the fun out of it, for me it's in the doing of it!
Mac

Re: A few Questions
 

I looked at the Muscle Rod kit myself, but couldn't justify their cost when $25 adapter plates and a drill bit accomplished the same thing. But since my truck is just a toy, I'm not on a time restraint with it. I was able to do my 5.3 swap in about 8 working days. I'm usually just trying to save the shade tree guy a buck.

And just on a personal note Mac, I'm the same as you. I would much rather fab something instead of buying it. I'm juuuust picky enough that no one makes exactly what I want. :lol:

Re: A few Questions
 

I don't think there is an advantage either buying or building. I just depends on what you got more of: time or money. I don't always have much time, so if I can buy something I know will work, then I can figure out what I can get done when I do have a chance to turn wrenches.

Now for something completely different... how about paddle shifters? If you are going to use a 4L60E or 80E, it might be an option. Dare to be different!:metal:

Re: A few Questions
 

Yep, it's whatever floats a persons boat. :D There are plenty of reasons for going one way or the other.

Paddle shifters? That would be slicker than goose poop!

Re: A few Questions
 

My wife's car has paddle shifters and i hate them. Mainly because if you bump them when your not paying attention it will shift. Even better if you let rev high enough between shifts and when you actually shift the TCU will shift 2 gears if you happen to hit it just a hair after it decided to shift on it's own. I dunno maybe in a more traditional automatic it wouldn't be so bad, but it can be really frustrating when the wrong clutch engages.

Re: A few Questions
 

OK, so I guess it's not slicker than goose poop. :( That would suck.

Re: A few Questions
 

I don't think it would so much be the case with an automatic with a torque converter. But her's has the DSG twin clutch transmission.

Re: A few Questions
 

Ah, OK, gotcha.