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-   -   New master and now no power brakes (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=573700)

shawno72 04-01-2013 10:45 PM

New master and now no power brakes
 
2 Attachment(s)
Ok I did a disc brake upgrade to my 68 swb. I already had a power booster and now it feels like it isn't working. I used a 1975 Corvette style master cylinder and the truck stops ok but the pedal is hard. Any ideas?

Attachment 1086006

Attachment 1086007

SCHRUMGMC 04-01-2013 10:46 PM

Re: New master and now no power brakes
 
How do you Upgrade to newer style Brakes ?

shawno72 04-01-2013 10:47 PM

Re: New master and now no power brakes
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by SCHRUMGMC (Post 5986052)
How do you Upgrade to newer style Brakes ?

Went from drum to disc...

SCHRUMGMC 04-01-2013 10:49 PM

Re: New master and now no power brakes
 
Oh simple as that then :lol:

ulakovic22 04-01-2013 10:50 PM

Re: New master and now no power brakes
 
Just the front disks, upgraded? I'm guessing that you got a CPP master and prop valve combo for disk/drum or disk/disk, which ever you have? Bore size on the master, did you change the pushrod, bleed the brake system correctly?
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shawno72 04-01-2013 11:08 PM

Re: New master and now no power brakes
 
I used a rebuilt 75 Corvette master with a 1" bore. Stock rebuilt booster that is workiń properly and I believe I bleed the system good. Nice firm pedal. Front disc upgrade only with new CPP disc/drum prop valve
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buckskins4ever 04-01-2013 11:09 PM

Re: New master and now no power brakes
 
Also since you had the booster already, did you look to make sure it didnt have fluid in it? I had to replace mine due to this. And another is poor vacuum pressure. Where are you porting the vacuum for the booster from?

shawno72 04-01-2013 11:13 PM

Re: New master and now no power brakes
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by buckskins4ever (Post 5986117)
Also since you had the booster already, did you look to make sure it didnt have fluid in it? I had to replace mine due to this. And another is poor vacuum pressure. Where are you porting the vacuum for the booster from?

The booster is less than 6 months old and was working great with the drum brakes. Easy toe stops and no worries. There was no fluid in it and I checked it and it was holding vacuum when I removed the check valve.
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shawno72 04-01-2013 11:15 PM

Re: New master and now no power brakes
 
My concern was maybe I should of used the 1 1/8 inch bore master but I figured the smaller bore would cause higher pressure.
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shawno72 04-02-2013 09:39 AM

Re: New master and now no power brakes
 
After reading this I'm thinking I may need to switch to the larger 1 1/8 bore

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=561809

tinsoldier 04-02-2013 10:08 AM

Re: New master and now no power brakes
 
Did you properly bench bleed the master ? Not sure if that is a brand new (looks brand new from the pic). All the brand new master cylinder I get has a note saying to you have to bench bleed it or at least comes with 2 lines where you can bleed it in the car before installation of the hardlines.

ulakovic22 04-02-2013 10:13 AM

Re: New master and now no power brakes
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by shawno72 (Post 5986660)
After reading this I'm thinking I may need to switch to the larger 1 1/8 bore

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=561809

You have a 1" bore MC, if you go to a larger bore the pedal effort will increase because you are trying to move more fluid. If you had power drums before and just switched to power disks then your pushrod should be ok. Just make sure your vacuum source is good, hooked up, no leaks and that your brakes are bled well and you should be good.

shawno72 04-02-2013 10:52 AM

Re: New master and now no power brakes
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by tinsoldier (Post 5986693)
Did you properly bench bleed the master ? Not sure if that is a brand new (looks brand new from the pic). All the brand new master cylinder I get has a note saying to you have to bench bleed it or at least comes with 2 lines where you can bleed it in the car before installation of the hardlines.

Yes I did bench bleed.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ulakovic22 (Post 5986703)
You have a 1" bore MC, if you go to a larger bore the pedal effort will increase because you are trying to move more fluid. If you had power drums before and just switched to power disks then your pushrod should be ok. Just make sure your vacuum source is good, hooked up, no leaks and that your brakes are bled well and you should be good.

Thats kinda what I was thinking. I know enough about hydraulics to now smaller piston equals higher pressure. I am just at a loss and will try to bleed some more. Plus on my 72, it had manual brakes and all I did was add a booster and viola power brakes. Those come with 1 1/8 bore masters I believe.

Driving it to work this morning made me realize that I will get used to the firmer pedal and that there is like a half pedal that feels like power and then it hits a point where it feels like manual brakes. I was thinking that with the larger bore that there would be less stroke and maybe that would keep it in the power brake feel realm?

Longhorn 70 04-02-2013 11:05 AM

Re: New master and now no power brakes
 
I have done drum to disc on the front of my C20. I have a prop valve that looks like the one on your truck. I am told that the lines have to be reversed to work.... Could this be the issue?

Have you called CPP? I am sure they have run into a question like this before.

I have not hooked it up YET. That comes this weekend. I went back to the distribution valve for now and it feels spongy.

shawno72 04-02-2013 11:07 AM

Re: New master and now no power brakes
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Longhorn 70 (Post 5986792)
I have done drum to disc on the front of my C20. I have a prop valve that looks like the one on your truck. I am told that the lines have to be reversed to work.... Could this be the issue?

Have you called CPP? I am sure they have run into a question like this before.

I have not hooked it up YET. That comes this weekend. I went back to the distribution valve for now and it feels spongy.

Well I got new pre bent brake lines and from the prop specs the rear and front lines are in the correct position.

lolife99 04-02-2013 11:13 AM

Re: New master and now no power brakes
 
1 Attachment(s)
I would try a stock 71-72 M/C.
They have the 1-1/8" bore.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...01292&pt=01292

shawno72 04-02-2013 11:24 AM

Re: New master and now no power brakes
 
Thanks Keith no actually got one of those yesterday :lol: was already headed down that path. Plus I have this relationship with Oreillys so they will swap it no questions asked. :D I will post updates this weekend. Thanks guys and let me know if you have any other suggestions til then
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Ol Blue K20 04-02-2013 11:40 AM

Re: New master and now no power brakes
 
Shawn, after reading the link you posted, I think the larger bore is what you need. I think you're heading down the right path. :D

shawno72 04-02-2013 12:04 PM

Re: New master and now no power brakes
 
Well the silver lining in all of this is I will be able to pre paint the new master :lol: Thinking of just going with a flat clear or some aluminum paint that I already have.

lolife99 04-02-2013 12:13 PM

Re: New master and now no power brakes
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by shawno72 (Post 5986902)
Well the silver lining in all of this is I will be able to pre paint the new master :lol: Thinking of just going with a flat clear or some aluminum paint that I already have.

That's why I will only use aluminum M/C's from now on.
No painting that will eventually rust anyway.
I painted my '69 M/C with cast look caliper paint,... but now it's starting to look like crap.
(with almost no miles on the truck)

shawno72 04-02-2013 12:16 PM

Re: New master and now no power brakes
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by lolife99 (Post 5986916)
That's why I will only use aluminum M/C's from now on.
No painting that will eventually rust anyway.
I painted my '69 M/C with cast look caliper paint,... but now it's starting to look like crap.
(with almost no miles on the truck)

You know I considered that as well but now I want to make sure I get the right master and for only $14 its hard to beat the steel version. I will swap it once it starts to look crappy...maybe ;)

jocko 04-02-2013 02:25 PM

Re: New master and now no power brakes
 
1 Attachment(s)
I believe the discussion above regarding which line from the mc goes to which port on the prop valve is valid - but only for a 3/4 ton truck (pic of my 3/4 attached). Note rear mc res attaches to the front port of the prop valve and vice versa. You can see the 1/4 (rear) lines and figure out which ports/reservoirs feed the rear brakes and which other ones feed the fronts.

My inline tube purchase matched the old lines between mc and prop valve.

BUT, your truck is a 1/2 ton - so my point is dispel the confusion between 1/2 and 3/4 ton. Your mc to prop valve lines are right for a 1/2 ton and the pic below is right for a 3/4 ton.

BB72CHEVKT 04-02-2013 02:50 PM

Re: New master and now no power brakes
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by lolife99 (Post 5986916)
That's why I will only use aluminum M/C's from now on.
No painting that will eventually rust anyway.
I painted my '69 M/C with cast look caliper paint,... but now it's starting to look like crap.
(with almost no miles on the truck)

Yep, mine rusted before it was done at the shop. I have a aluminum one for my 72.

shawno72 04-02-2013 03:39 PM

Re: New master and now no power brakes
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by BB72CHEVKT (Post 5987240)
Yep, mine rusted before it was done at the shop. I have a aluminum one for my 72.

How about some aluminum colored paint :uhmk::lol:

BB72CHEVKT 04-02-2013 05:28 PM

Re: New master and now no power brakes
 
1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by shawno72 (Post 5987316)
How about some aluminum colored paint :uhmk::lol:

That is what I used and it still rusted.


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