cpp spindle question?
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So I ordered a set of spindles from summit. When they arrived the box said part # cp4s3 which is supposed to be 71-72 2/12" drop spindles. When I took the spindles out the casting on the spindle said cp4s4 which is for the 73 and up c10. I called summit and they said to send them back, which I did. They replacement spindles arrived today. They Have The same casting of cp4s4. I called summit again and they called cpp and put me on a 3 way with cpp and the guy there said they use the same casting number(cp4s4) for all their spindles then machine them for the different years. He assured me that these were the correct ones but I can't understand why they have the same numbers on spindles for different years and no other numbers to differentiate them from one another. Why make it so confusing. Maybe it's just me. Was wondering if anyone else has used these spindles on a 71-72 with this casting #. Sorry for such a long post for a simple question. Thanks For Any help.
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The cpp guy said that the stock ball joints will work.
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This is why you should buy from CPP in the first place and not Summit (reseller). Once you have issues... Summit just reroutes you to CPP anyway for answers.
Just my opinion. |
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I ordered other stuff at the same and the shipping was free. Never had problems with summit before.
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Typically, the spindle manufacturers will use the same casting for 63-87, and drill the ball joints differently. This is why the number is the same on them.
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I got the same deal from them. I just ran down to NAPA and picked up 73 up ball joints and all was well. I didn't want to wait for shipping back and fourth and all the other crap that goes with it. Figured new ball joints would be a good thing anyway.
Best of luck! |
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I just scored a set of these spindles in a bulk item purchase. How can I tell what ball joint they fit?
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I have had poor luck using CPP.
They sold me an aluminum relocation tank. When it didn't fit correctly It had been too long for a return. Yes, it had been 10 months. However the tank was new and unmodified in the factory box.. The tank stuck up beyond the frame rails and the box could not be mounted as it was designed. I had to space the tank down almost 1/2 in. The fill was almost in the center of the box. What a lame spot to put it. I ended up welding up the stock fill location so I could relocate it and turning the tank around so the lines would clear the bed support without having to drill holes in it. Would have made it difficult to drop the tank that way anyhow. Made in China. With no actual design criteria except the outside definitions. I received a valuable lesson. Don’t advance purchase! Any issues that pop up will be difficult if not impossible to rectify. Could not be installed as shipped. Decided not to go low ball anymore and will never purchase from CPP again. They sold crap and failed to back it up. However, I was able to get them on the phone which is better than some vendors I have had to deal with. |
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As for Early Classic Enterprises, I used them a lot over the years, and have several of their well-made parts on my 69 C10. I think they were the first company to sell (and actually manufacture) dropped spindles for 67-72 trucks. Sadly, they closed their doors last January.:( |
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I used those same CPP spindles on my 67 for both static drop and disc brake conversion. I rebuilt my entire front end at the same time and since I purchased for 67 model all the ball joints and tie rods fit perfectly.
If CPP were smart, they would hand stamp some identifying letter or number on each after the ball joint and tie rod tapers are machined in. It would help both them internally and the consumer later on what they actually have. I also ordered through Summit in case I had any issues I'd get them involved. I had none, thankfully, so it all went pretty smooth. |
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Mike,
I used dust shields off some 73 spindles I had and I think standard 73 and up calipers would work as well but I ordered CPP calipers anyway. I gave a bit of negative feedback on the calipers on the Summit web site as I paid for the black powder coated ones and there was no way to install them with out A) relieving some room on the spindle, or B) chipping the powder coat where the calipers slid into the spindle. Other than that it all went together pretty well. I used inline tubes hard line kit and as Grumpy Old Man posted in another thread I used flex lines from Auto Zone to connect the hard lines to the calipers. Since the lines run in the rear of the crossmember instead of the front the standard 71 and up flex lines don't fit well. Bleeding my braking system and snugging up places where I am finding leaks right now. |
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They start w/one priority unit that gets the casting number & machine for the various other possible installation possibilities from there. |
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Later replaced the center link and tie rods with 73-87 1/2 ton parts. Still have the 1" rotors, but they work just as well as well as the larger ones. There's virtually no difference in stopping power, except possibly when going downhill with a heavy load, because thicker rotors dissipate more heat. This may be a good place for me to recommend Wagner semi-metallic pads. These things are inexpensive but awesome. Bought them from Rock Auto after speaking with a very helpful guy at Wagner. Part number is MX52. Don't be fooled by lesser brands that use the same P/N. |
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I am on the understanding 67 72 Ece kits used western chassis parts so we can still get the same drop parts just not from Ece and it does not look like Holley plans to do anything with it
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'Western Chassis' parts are still available but POL apparently gobbled them up so they're now coming through them. IMO, POL is ok but they replicate & are not innovators like the OG Western Chassis or Belltech brands. |
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