1971 c10 16 year old girl
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Dang straight.:metal:
Two years a go my dad got a 1971 c10 longbed, painted an ugly dark green with a red fender, but it ran great! til some idiot drove in front of an old lady who had to stop quickly which caused my dad to run into her:uhmk: The radiator was toast, core support bent, and the grill and hood crunched. It sat for two years looking miserable and sad on our driveway. Until one day i devised a plan, find my dad the truck he really wants (a 69) and then beg to be able to fix up the 71. After replacing the radiator, battery, and a few wires it was running! next step is to figure out the blinkers and get the carb working right. the first 3 pics are of the truck now, other too are from after it was wrecked and after i started work on it |
Re: 1971 c10 16 year old girl
Welcome,good job on the repairs
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So, you are the 16 year old?
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Sounds like a plan!! Good luck and have fun !!
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Welcome to the site and enjoy putting the truck together. If you need any help just holler and I'll see what I can do for you.
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You kinda remind me of my daughter cause she was a girl too. LOL
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Well I thought it was funny
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I ain't touch'n that post...:D
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:lol: I was funny Jim. It was.
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im sure youll be seeing more of my name on your screen as theres quite a few things ill need help with:confused: |
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This is what the forum is for, helping others and sharing experiences. Nice work on the truck and any problems or questions you might have just ask! Btw, I'm partial to 71's myself. I have one and my dad had one when I was born. My mom drove it 9 months pregnant with a 3 on the tree!
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i wish my GF actually liked my truck LOL
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So, what if anything are you needing to get this done? I have a 71 grill shell that isn't perfect, but looks better than the one you have, I'd be willing to give it to you, but getting it there might be costly. I was originally going to polish my grill on my '71, but decided to go a little different route...
I dolly'd ( massaged the small dings/dents out, filed and sanded it smooth up to 600 grit sand paper (so you couldn't feel the sand scratches) then I cleaned it real good with a prep solvent like what you use before applying paint. I then powder coated it "Chrome" looks almost new, and won't corrode either....here's a few pics of my '71.....turned out pretty nice. Good luck with your build/resurrection! Ben Smith :metal: :metal: |
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Thought Id post and update. not sure if there's a more official way but whatever. the truck starts up nice and sounds GREAT. Then the carb starts gushing gas :waah: its a 4 barrel Rochester thats been rebuilt twice! we are taking it to a local guy whos been rebuilding for 40+ years, we told him about our problem and he thinks its an easy fix and that if someone doesn't know EXACTLY what they're doing, the carb doesn't often work right. But he seems to know and it might get done for free:metal: we had a chevy enthusiast recommend him to us and said that his truck ran better than ever when he got the carb back. Will post pics of the carb later, and maybe a couple of the truck on the road:chevy:
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on those signals, make sure you got the ground wire secured to the rad support. with no paint in between the contact eyelet on the wire and the rad support
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With regards to the turn signals, there are a few things you need to check. Grounds are important, as time goes on, rust/vibration can work the ground wires for each lamp loose, or corrode, and won't complete the circuit.each turn signal lamp has a ground, sometimes wired together. If you take the sheet metal screw loose from each ground wire, and then use a small piece of sand paper or file, clean the metal where the screw attaches the ground wire, then re-attach the wire to the metal.maybe add a dab of bulb grease to keep it from corroding.
next, if you have a test light or volt meter, see if you have power to the lamp sockets, chances are your turn signal switch is bad, or the wiring connector has possibly come apart.....or, broken wires....these are 40+ year old trucks....have you looked at the fuses? Don't let a fuse fool you, you need to check them with a test light or an ohm meter,sometimes they blow, but not severe enough to see with the naked eye.....been there, done that......see if that help you any... |
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Best way to find the ground connections is to hand over hand the wiring harness where each branch goes to the lamps. If anything else, the light harness starts at the firewall (under the brake master cylinder) the harness routes along the driver side fender and then across the core support(part where the radiator bolts up to) there will be a voltage regulator behind the driver side headlamp, inside the engine bay. you might find a couple ground wires there, but most likely, on the radiator/core support near each turn signal lamp.... I have an extra lamp harness here at work, I'll pull it out and let you know where they are for sure...when the collision happened, probably disturbed/broke the grounding connections. that's where I concentrate looking...
Happy hunting! Ben Smith :metal: |
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To add to what the others have said, make sure you have a ground strap from the engine to the frame and the frame to the bed. Also make sure the fuse holders in the fuse block are not rusty where the fuses snap in. They are notorious for that.... LockDoc |
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