Drive Shaft Binding- 6" lift???
 

I have a Blazer witha 350/ T400. The engine was placed in the stock location with a trans crossmember off a 2 wheel drive. Also, the blazer has a 6 in lift. The drive shaft binds when the yoke is set into the rear axle. I had the driveshaft made to the correct length????? Any suggestions, answers, or drive shaft pictures of trucks with 6" lifts would greatly be appreciated.

Also, the distributor seems to be very close to the firewall...is this comon. The engine has HEI.

My rear axle is angled slightly to help compensate for the lift. I don't think any of the pictures in my sig show this though. What t-case and axles are you running? Did you put the engine in the 2wd or 4wd position. The 4wd position is further back to help increase the length of the front drive line.

Offroad Design (ORD) make a piece called a zero rate that moves axle back into the center of the wheel well. This may help your situation. http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/Zero%20Rates.htm
The other option is to get a High Angle driveline, but they aren't cheap. http://www.highangledriveline.com/

My HEI is extremely close to the fire wall. It can be difficult to put the wires on the cap. I have heard of people doing some firewall modifications with a Big @#$% Hammer (BFH) but that doesn't look pretty.

I am running the Blazer in 2wd mode for right now, so no transfer case. I am looking for a np205 to run with the 400. The rear is lifted with a 5 1/2 angled block and spacer spring. I am considering trying to lower the trans or I need to rotate the axle up by using an angled shim..??

So you have no transfercase? Is it a 2wd TH400? That might be your problem. It might be longer than a 4wd TH400 and the t-case. If that is the case, either dropping the transmission or an angled shim might help. How much binding do you have? Would a couple more degrees of angle in you diff help?

Yes, it's a 2wd turbo 400. I didn't realize the 2wd version are that much longer than the 4wd w/ transfer case? The driveshaft is very close to working. It binds approx 1 inch (at the correct spot in the rotation) above the axle location. Can I add shims to the angle lift blocks that are already there?

I don't know how safe it is to stack shims on lift blocks. You might check with the lift company.

The 2wd transmissions have a long tail shaft on them. The 4wd is basically the 2wd without the tail. The t-case sits in place of the tail. I'm guessing that your transmissions overall length is maybe an inch or two longer than the 4wd case & t-case.

Bouncytruck, you been holding out on me? The zero rate block is excellent. That's one of my biggest pet peeves while admiring my K5. That darn offset rear wheel

LeRoy, aren't you a member on CK5? There is always talk about zero rates there. Obviously, your not the only one that doesn't like the wheels sitting forward when you lift a K5. If I didn't have blocks, I'd get 'em.

Ya, I probably am but haven't visited in awhile. According to the write up it doesn't act as another block but bolts to the spring pack. I'll probably just use it, an add-a-leaf and a shackle flip, then toss the 4" block. I'm in the process of a Dana 60 swap and trying to talk the wife into letting me get the Skyjacker 6" front springs. lol