toe in question.
 

I just replaced my tie rods with some n.o.s. TRW ends I bought last year at a swap meet. I'm going to take it in for aliniment anyways but I would like to have the toe in set some what close to make the 30 mile trip. I looked up previous threads on this and from what I've found and what I did was set the toe in at 3/16 from center of treads on tire. Is this correct for radial tires which I have or is this set up fo bais ply tires. Guy at work has me questioning this so I thought I would ask you guys . My fronts are 32x11.50r15. If that matters

Re: toe in question.
 

That will get you there , and not tear up tires , 1/8 inch is what my alignment guy suggested

Re: toe in question.
 

Thanks for the quick reply. I'll actually adjust to 1/8 for the trip to the alignment shop. I know it's not going to happen but for self satisfaction it would be cool to pull it in there and they say they don't have to adjust anything lol.

Re: toe in question.
 

You can do an alignment yourself with string. I did and found my frame is bent. I opened a big can of worms, but check out the video link in this thread:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=703198

Re: toe in question.
 

had mine at 3/4 out for one short ride , it was interesting to say the least

Re: toe in question.
 

Great info there . Thanks for the link

Re: toe in question.
 

I completely rebuilt the front suspension on a 65 Mustang which included new upper and lower control arms, tie rods, etc, and was going with new wheels/tires anyway, so I kinda eyeballed it all and didn't really care... Wow, what an interesting 3 mile drive... I was too afraid to get it over 35mph.

Re: toe in question.
 

1/16" toe in on each side is a good number to shoot for. I did some suspension work on mine including drop spindles, 4" springs in back and stock height springs in the front and took it for an alignment and after $200 the alignment was terrible. I bought a bubble level alignment tool for $129 and did it myself and it is beautiful.

My setting right and left are -1* camber and +3.5* caster with 1/8"total toe.
I have power steering, if manual steering I would set caster to +1.5* and see how it works, +caster will make the truck not want to turn and help improve return to center but can make it hard to turn in parking lots.
I can drive down the highway at 70mph with no hands on the wheel now and have no noticeable tire wear in over 1000 miles. I have been checking because the shop alignment was eating tires. I forgot to write down the numbers I started with.
the largest shim stack I have is 7/16" (3x 1/8" and 1x 1/16")