Mechanical curiosity?
 

Greetings Gang! I usually use the search, and find answers here, but I'm stumped this time and wouldn't even know how to phrase it to attempt to find an answer.
Here it is. My truck was a long bed. (1970 Chevy C10) I needed a new cab floor and My frame had issues. Since the cab had to come off anyway, I figured it was a good time to find a better frame.
Found a nice rust free frame. Problem was, (or happy circumstance) the frame was a short bed frame. I like short beds, so I bought the frame. Now I had to find a short bed, which I did.
Here is the problem. My long bed was lowered 4 inches in the front with four inch springs. Four inch springs in the rear too. This left the truck with a rake I didn't like, so I also added 2 inch blocks in the rear to level it out.
I cleaned and painted up the new frame. The sub frame, or the bolt in part that the front suspension attaches to, was in better condition then the new frame, so it was detached, cleaned, then bolted on to the new frame. The rear suspension, with all of the lowering equipment, was bolted to the new frame.
I finished the cab, and placed it on the frame. It is sitting on brand new Energy Suspension cab supports bushings, as well as the radiator support bushings.
My truck no longer looks lowered. I have 5 inches or so between my tires and wheel wells. The bed is the same way, about 5 inches.
I thought maybe because of the new bushings, this was the reason, but I saved the old ones and their about the same size.
Thought maybe the front springs didn't seat properly, but that wouldn't explain the bed.
Sorry I was so windy, but wanted you all to know what was done so you could make an educated guess.
Anyway, thanks.

Re: Mechanical curiosity?
 

Did you tighten up all the suspension bolts with the truck in the air? If so it will sit higher than it should. Truck needs to be on the ground with the suspension "loaded" when you tighten up your suspension. On a lowered truck you can set it on jack stands ( under control arms in front, axle tubes in rear)

Re: Mechanical curiosity?
 

You know, I really can't remember. Its been awhile since I bolted the frame together, Ill have to think on that. It would be worth a try to loosen it, then retighten it your way.

Re: Mechanical curiosity?
 

Well, this morning I took BW's advice and jacked up the truck and placed jack stands under the A-arms, and the rear end. I took a measurement before I did all of this, and at the bottom of the center of the wheel well, was 30 1/8 inch, both front and back.
I then loosened all suspension pieces until they were slack, and then tightened them again. I then lowered the truck off the jack stands. There was no visible difference. I took measurements on the stance again. The back was still 30 1/8 inch, and I actually gained another 1/8 inch on the front.
Unless anybody else has any ideas, I guess I wont worry about it until the rest of the truck is together.
Its kind of irritating, I found a picture of the truck before, and the front fender was just above the tire. Not sure why this is not the case now.

Re: Mechanical curiosity?
 

I'm gonna state some simple things that could have an effect on stance. Don't shoot me if you have already considered them...

A complete motor and front clip will make a big difference in the front and affect the back some as well.

Same goes for putting the bed assembly on for the back.

A bound (read - too long) single drive shaft could keep the back end from relaxing down.

The wrong shocks could be a problem.

New parts/springs will set differently than any old ones that have been discarded.

My 2 cents for what it's worth.

Re: Mechanical curiosity?
 

If the coils in the front are not in their notch in the lower control arm, the truck will sit an inch to an inch and a half too high.

-klb

Re: Mechanical curiosity?
 

Too bad that didn't fix it. Both the above posts have great points. I forgot to ask you if the engine & trans are in. If not, when installed it will sit the front end down, don't know about the back. I usually leave the rear ride height as one of the last things I do in a build, not saying it's the right way, it's just seams easier to me to adjust it after everything else is done.

Re: Mechanical curiosity?
 

Thanks guys. The bed, cab, engine, hood, are all on right now. engine is complete, no fluids yet. (its all coming back apart for paint later, its just in mock up stage. There is no wood in the bed, wiring, or interior, or front wheel wells.
The shorty shocks from cpp is what I'm using.
The one piece drive shaft is new, haven't even been used yet. If my measurements were done right, I should be good to go on that.
As far as the front springs go, I was pretty sure I got the end of the spring in its little pocket, but I'll check again.
It must not be anything to terrible if I got the same measurements front and back.
I even read up on search to see if I bought a 4x4 frame, which I thought would defeat the lowering gear. After reading all those threads on search, I now know I have a 1/2 ton frame. The cab mount bushings are the same height as the old ones, so who knows.
Personally, I'm beginning to think that the anti-lowering fairy snuck into my garage and did her evil deeds to my truck. I could be off on that though.

Re: Mechanical curiosity?
 

I sure have no answer, if everything is the same as when it sat lower. I think 4" lowered with springs in front is too much to get good alignment. The rule of thumb is 4" from what I gather. But that has nothing to do with it. The old body bushings probably squash when installed, but not all that much as what you are seeing. If you used urethane bushing, they are rock hard, no squash (or give while driving). But again, what are we talking, maybe an inch?

I wouldn't want the 4" springs and I'm amazed anyone even offers those. They are just wrong. I also would not be using the urethane body bushings, otherwise known as body cushions, because you will get zero cushion out of those. Suspension is cool for a tighter ride with a minor sacrifice to ride, but frame to body needs flex/cushion.

Re: Mechanical curiosity?
 

Special-k, I drove that truck lowered, daily, good weather, and really bad, for at least 14 years, and never experienced any bad steering, with the exception of, my turn radius was not tight as it use to be.
As far as the urethane cushions go, I admit I bought them purely for the look of them. Later, I read on here that they may cause problems as far as zero cushion goes. If they turn out to be a problem, I'll replace them.
I did check my spring seating again. The end of the bottom spring on the drivers side is about 3 inches from the pocket. The drivers side, about a whole half a spring. I'll fix them when every thing comes off again. I never did like how those springs move around when your tires are off the ground. Is that normal? Not much mind you, but they can be wiggled.

Re: Mechanical curiosity?
 

Seating them will drop it, & I'm guessing they wiggle because they are shorter than stock springs?

Re: Mechanical curiosity?
 

That was always my hope. Seems weird to me there is nothing securing springs to the frame other than the weight of the vehicle.

Re: Mechanical curiosity?
 

Are you using shorter than stock shocks for your drop? When the truck is on the ground does the suspension still give? I'm driving at shocks that are to long and not letting the truck settle all the way down.

Re: Mechanical curiosity?
 

That's true for all stock components. Once you start violating all the work the engineers stayed up late at night making sure a vehicle was safe and driveable, pretty much all bets are off. Not picking on you, per se, but when the stock config is changed, you must be sure that somebody did some engineering for you when you bought the parts. I grew up in the '60s, and you wouldn't believe what people did to lower or raise a vehicle, that got them in big trouble, safety-wise. In the stock case, the spring is held in by the shock at maximum travel.

Re: Mechanical curiosity?
 

Peppertreegarage. I am using Brothers 4 inch drop springs, in relationship with their drop shocks. It was a kit they sold years ago when I did this. Front and rear 4 inch drop springs, drop shocks, and a adjustable pan hard bar.
Steeveedee, That's true, I grew up in the 60ties too, was just a lad, but did see some scary stuff. The only way the wiggling springs would be a issue on the road was if I was air born. And if that's the case, I got far more worries than springs that wiggles.
Let me qualify my term "wiggles' When the truck is in the air, wheels dangling, I can move the springs by hand maybe 3/4 of a inch. There is no up and down movement. The springs stay in their pockets, but can be moved. It was the first time lowering a vehicle, and always wondered if moving springs was normal with a lowering kit.
Thanks for the replies guys.

Re: Mechanical curiosity?
 

I've ran drop coils since Ive had a c10 albeit a squarebody. But they're fine, just a pain when setting the truck back down.
I lucked out on last build raised the front shock mount up a bit, like 2 inches and the shock stops the spring from falling out.

Re: Mechanical curiosity?
 

>>The bed, cab, engine, hood, are all on right now. engine is complete, no fluids yet. (its all coming back apart for paint later, its just in mock up stage. There is no wood in the bed, wiring, or interior, or front wheel wells.<<

That actually says it all.

You're still a thousand lbs away from curb weight.
Loosening the suspension bolts needs to be done when it's completely back to finished weight. You'll need to recheck the length of that new driveshaft.

Re: Mechanical curiosity?
 

Yeah ,,, that