Body dry runs
 

I'm trying my hand on a high-end restoration of a 71 C-10. First time doing any of it. Other than a few components I need a body to continue, so I called the body/paint dude. He and his brother are going to pile up on the rest, I hear his bro. is a very good body man, so good news. Maybe I'll finish next year.

At any rate, we were talking about a dry run. He's under the opinion that because the body is in great shape we'll do a dry run before any body work. Then pull the cab again and everything else. I had the belief its best to do the dry run after body work, figure adjustments, shims and that, then hit the body again as needed. But I see his point, what do you think?

Other than that I don't believe we need a bed to do the dry run. He's spraying the base coat on that this week-end. I think he plans for the deluxe white and clear after we've determined placement of the trim. It didn't have side and rear moldings, but will.

Thanks for any input

Re: Body dry runs
 

I'd listen to him if hes good, hes knows what to do...id want it together and then do body work myself...

Re: Body dry runs
 

You need the bed to "block it out" with all new components so it appears seamless. With doing the bed separately, you can have a misalignment to the cab, resulting in an "add-on" or "finished separate" condition.

Re: Body dry runs
 

Good info. thanks. Interesting point about the bed and "finished separate condition". Might be too late if he's already sprayed the bed body color....I'll see what he thinks.

Re: Body dry runs
 

I would assemble the entire body on the frame with new body mounts etc to work out all the mount problems and shimming prior to any bodywork. The cab can be difficult to get square to the frame, it’s a critical to get the cab in the right spot or the bed won’t line up looking down the side of the truck. The cab will also probably need to be shimmed so the fenders fit right (front door gap and alignment). Cab height will also effect how the bed fits at the rear of the cab.
Once the cab is set I would try to leave it on for the remainder of the bodywork and paint.
The cab is so heavy it’s difficult to move it tiny amounts which is usually needed.

Re: Body dry runs
 

If you want it right you should do a dry run and make sure everything fits,Then take it apart do you bodywork and put it back together for final fit. I wouldn’t worry about the bed lining up with the cab there are two separate pieces, it’ the doors fenders Hood that you want properly aligned. The part I would be concerned about is whether the paint is going to match if he is panel painting it. If it is a metallic it should all be painted assembled at one time, if it’s nonmetallic then you’re OK you can paint the parts separately

Re: Body dry runs
 

Thanks NSB, sounds good. Ocher/white. Paint dude suggests clear coat on everything but inside the bed, cab, and I'm assuming the firewall too. Under bed is black, same with underneath the cab I think.

Not looking forward to moldings. This body doesn't have the holes for it. The painter suggests we do that before he hits the white and clear.

Re: Body dry runs
 

Don’t understand why he would not clear the inside of the bed the basecoat has no UV protection without the clear, if you do not want a shiny interior use a flatting agent. don’t drill holes use the 3m trim tap there is a thread on here about it, you apply it over the paint they cut pieces of plexiglass attach it to your trim with the 3m trim tape thin apply the trim the same way to the truck with the tap.

Re: Body dry runs
 

I'll ask about the clear in the bed. I'm not using the bed for sure. She's spoiled;)

Interesting on the 3M, I'll look it up. I wrote up a comparison of the assembly manual Vs the retainers that came with NOS trim I've got. More 3M than holes needed. You suggest 3M for tailgate too, or just side pieces?

Re: Body dry runs
 

You know what I wasn’t paying attention to the year of your truck the article on using that 3m tap was on the older trucks 64,5 and 6 but it could work for you as well you will have to look and see

Re: Body dry runs
 

I was thinking it might work well to attach all the side trim using a hole on each end, and 3M tape in-between. I took a peak at what came with the NOS moldings I've got, and they provide for exactly that. Exception being the upper fender trim. They came with clips and take nuts.

Re: Body dry runs
 

Question, in your opinion(s), should the door weatherstrip and/or hood seal be installed for a dry run?

Re: Body dry runs
 

don't think so...at least not on mine...I put them on after paint

Re: Body dry runs
 

I agree not necessary

Re: Body dry runs
 

Only do it if you want the doors to close nice and not have to slam them.

Re: Body dry runs
 

Dry run for gaps and alignment has nothing to do with door seals. If you have to slam your door it’s the seals not the alignment

Re: Body dry runs
 

Cool, thanks a bunch