Wet Ignition System issues... ever use "WIRE DRYER" ...
 

We've had a '99 Suburban that randomly just WILL NOT START.. it's taken us years to nail this down and it appears it's due to wetness as so often it rained the night before and without fail.. it will not start...

Husband bought a can of "WIRE DRYER"...Link here:

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Wire-Drye...gateway&sr=8-1

He sprayed this on when it was still wet one morning...it didn't help.. (Probably should have done when dry?) Anyone else out there with this consistent issue and what you did about it ??

Outside of this...the Burb runs GREAT , we hate to get rid of it.. but we simply can't count on it to start, therefore we have insurance on 4 vehicles when really we only need 3 for our family....so we can get to work each day without fail..

Just need ideas to how to fix this once and for all.. what has worked for you??

Thank you so much.

Re: Wet Ignition System issues... ever use "WIRE DRYER" ...
 

Ask a mod to move this to the 88-98 gmt400 section

What ignition system component is your husband spraying?

It sounds like there is water/condensation getting in the distributor cap or the plug wires are in terrible shape. I would recommend a full tune up

Re: Wet Ignition System issues... ever use "WIRE DRYER" ...
 

Try going out at night in the dark and cranking it. Look for little blue sparks under the hood.

Primary not secondary
 

We assume when you said "will not start" you mean it cranks but does not fire up. Some people incorrectly say "start" but mean "crank".

All the above suggestions should be checked. With that said, I don't believe you are having a problem on the secondary side of the ignition. I believe your problem is more likely the primary (low voltage) side.

First I suggest you evaluate the gasket and sealing surface around the hood. I essentially have the same vehicle you do but never have the issue you are dealing with.


Don't forget your distributor connector (low voltage side) is almost directly below the gasket for the hood at the windshield. Get a flash light and mirror and look down at the lower end of the distributor and see if the block and surrounding area is wet or corroded.

Next start looking at signals (when you are having the problem) in the low voltage side of the ignition system.

Eliminate spark being the issue first. Start backwards from the plugs to the distributor then to the coil and see where that leads you.

Last thing to look at is injector signals.

If you mean it won't crank. That would obviously be a different much easier problem to solve.

Need to address some previous issues first
 

After looking into your past posts, it seems evident that you may need to do some things that you may have missed.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ap#post8403508

In that post you claim you had starting issues from last year and changed the cap and rotor but never mentioned the possibly fouled plugs. So what about the plugs?

In the event of fouled plugs and driving for extended periods, a cylinder problem can ensue. read washed down cylinder walls.

I have chased down a problem with caps and rotors not lasting 300 miles due to a plugged up vent in the distributor. Were the vents ever checked?

I have had starting issues due to a bad cap that one day seems fine and the next day won't start. I found out that just 3 plugs not firing will cause a no start situation.

We can get into fuel pressure later but we want to know about these issues.