More tear down progress
 

In the process of tearing my Blazer down for a complete re-build. Anyone have any tips for taken the tub off of the frame?

Anybody have a reference dimension on what the door openings should be? Both mine measure the same horizontally, and both diagonals. Doesn't appear that the body has any sag there, that's a plus.

PO didn't do a very good job on the rocker panels

more progress pics to come

I like the setup you ran for the door. Gonna steal that idea from you. Keep us updated. Seeing progress threads, especially about blazers really get me in a up beat mood about working on mine. thanks for sharing.

Repairs
 

I got into the same thing your running into...the previous owner's work. :( I picked up a "rust free" AZ blazer and am in the process of replacing both rockers and drivers side lower front pillar due to lets say, "inexperience". Otherwise very solid thoughout.
As far as lifting off the tub...I've done the 4"x4" post's on saw horses thing. Then roll out the frame. Just make sure to place them under a cross brace on the tub and you'll be all set.
Good luck and keep the digi's coming.

I didn't have room in my garage for both the rolling chassis and the tub, so I couldn't use the "4x4" idea. My driveway is too steep for this method also. I ended up having a buddy at a crane service come over and pick off the body. For supports, I placed a 2x4 running parallel with the tailgate, bolted through the holes that are used for holding the roof in position. Instead of using bolts, I used "eye" bolts which I used for picking the body off. Up front, I also ran a 2x4 behind the seat location, from bed panel to bed panel, again using the holes used to hold the top in position. These 2x4's provided great lateral support to the body and I left the doors in position until the body was returned to the chassis. I'm not really sure what the body actually weighs, but it's enough that six guys would probably have a tough time lifting it off.

more pics
 

Will be pulling the engine in the morning.

another
 

2

the 3-speed tranny / dana 20 transfer case combo (with adapter and shifter) will be for sale (pickup only). $175.00.

We will add to the 3-speed and Dana 20 the bell housing,flywheel, clutch(11"-looks same as new-pressure plate,disc & throwout bearing),clutch fork and rod, Z-bar,clutch pedal and rod, clutch return spring, all bolts and Z-bar frame bracket(if needed) for $175 more. (or will sell separate).
(orangeuavol's dad)

more pics
 

pulled the engine Saturday and removed the top.

another

one more

I like your idea for the door and tailgate area as well.....most of what I've seen are welded in and then the problems when you take them out.........

thanks. I just pieced together some scrap metal and drilled some holes. A friend suggested the idea, he said it would be a lot easier.

Im suprized it had a d20 case instead of a 205.

How to squeeze a 402BB in '72 K5
 

We dropped the BB in tonight to see what needed to be done......nothing more than massage the firewall. The BB fits the SB towers with the SB mounts. The exhaust manifolds are from a '72 Monte Carlo and clear perfectly. Fits like a glove!

BB squeeze #2

BB squeeze #3

BB squeeze #4.
We'll fab up a "box" around the area on the drivers side firewall so that you'll never know that indention isn't stock, but that's later.

last one of BB.....for now.

pics of the windshield frame
 

Here's what we found when the top and rubber was removed. Are the top corners "capped off". One of mine is open and the other is puttied up.

another one of the windshield frame.

last one