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4x4Poet · 05-24-2006, 02:27 AM

1. Never heard of the outer bearing spring retainer. The outer bearings just fall out. Need a pic, I guess.

If the hubs still have barrel bearings, now would be a good time to upgrade them to tapered roller bearings. Just don't use the Svc Manual's torque recommendation for barrel bearing which must have a healthy pre-load. Tapered bearings need little pre-load.

2. Definitely use the metal gaskets. I seal them with Gaskacinch, but The Right Stuff would probably be OK. I don't like using gasket makers with gaskets. Next axle removal, Gaskacinch will peal right off.

3. I found Carquest has best wheel stud prices. Better than tire shops, even. Maybe you'll find different.

The Carquest/Dorman part number for 9/16" H052 hub studs is DOR 610-190, but your '68 has 1/2" studs, right? In case they're 9/16", that part # is about 1/8" to 1/4" longer than what I pulled off my '72 H052. Gave more thread purchase yet fit in standard acorn lug nuts.

You should not need new studs yet since the brake lathe uses cone shaped mounts to center the hub on the lathe's shaft using the cones against the races. Pounding out the races would entail pounding them back in for brake lathe work. Of course, the drum must be firmly affixed to the hub. Which leads me to the old studs..

As far as the old studs go, pound them back in. If any are too mangled to pound back in, just pound in 5 or 6. The hub & drum only need 4 or so studs to center the drum on the hub. Spread around the hub, obviously. But you might first mic the drums to see if their deepest grooves are far enough under the max dia to warrant turning.

4. Never seen a carboard seperator between hub & drum, but I've only seperated two 71 & two '72 H052 hub assys. Could have been a factory thing to keep rust down between the two.

Unless you want to save some dough with Chinese drums, I recommend getting made in USA drums. Smoother casting and I'm betting a superior metal. Even made in Canada drums have worse casting surface thant he made in USA drums. I've compared the two side by side. Embarrased the parts store that claimed made in Canada was as good as made in USA. I paid $62 per 11" drum.

05-24-2006, 02:27 AM	#4
4x4Poet Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: "Under Montana skies." Posts: 1,836	Re: HO52 Drum Brake Questions... 1. Never heard of the outer bearing spring retainer. The outer bearings just fall out. Need a pic, I guess. If the hubs still have barrel bearings, now would be a good time to upgrade them to tapered roller bearings. Just don't use the Svc Manual's torque recommendation for barrel bearing which must have a healthy pre-load. Tapered bearings need little pre-load. 2. Definitely use the metal gaskets. I seal them with Gaskacinch, but The Right Stuff would probably be OK. I don't like using gasket makers with gaskets. Next axle removal, Gaskacinch will peal right off. 3. I found Carquest has best wheel stud prices. Better than tire shops, even. Maybe you'll find different. The Carquest/Dorman part number for 9/16" H052 hub studs is DOR 610-190, but your '68 has 1/2" studs, right? In case they're 9/16", that part # is about 1/8" to 1/4" longer than what I pulled off my '72 H052. Gave more thread purchase yet fit in standard acorn lug nuts. You should not need new studs yet since the brake lathe uses cone shaped mounts to center the hub on the lathe's shaft using the cones against the races. Pounding out the races would entail pounding them back in for brake lathe work. Of course, the drum must be firmly affixed to the hub. Which leads me to the old studs.. As far as the old studs go, pound them back in. If any are too mangled to pound back in, just pound in 5 or 6. The hub & drum only need 4 or so studs to center the drum on the hub. Spread around the hub, obviously. But you might first mic the drums to see if their deepest grooves are far enough under the max dia to warrant turning. 4. Never seen a carboard seperator between hub & drum, but I've only seperated two 71 & two '72 H052 hub assys. Could have been a factory thing to keep rust down between the two. Unless you want to save some dough with Chinese drums, I recommend getting made in USA drums. Smoother casting and I'm betting a superior metal. Even made in Canada drums have worse casting surface thant he made in USA drums. I've compared the two side by side. Embarrased the parts store that claimed made in Canada was as good as made in USA. I paid $62 per 11" drum. __________________ '71 GMC K20 Suburban, '71 GMC K10 Suburban, '72 Chevy C10 CST Suburban, '72 Chevy K20 clunker pickup. Last edited by 4x4Poet; 05-24-2006 at 02:35 AM.